radiator &pressure test equipment, cheap and easy diagnostic

[grumpyvette]

read

http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolant_leaks.htm

http://www.ifitjams.com/radiator.htm

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_inf ... 0Paper.pdf
theres several versions, of these kits to fit and function on different types of radiators

http://www.harborfreight.com/radiator-p ... 1b2166c62d

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGHW/ref ... B00061SGHW

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 921x00003c


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Summit SUM-900078 $34.95

basically its a radiator cap test assembly that lets you pressurize the coolant system without needing to run or heat the system, making it far easier to locate leaks, 20 psi will usually be all that's needed to get coolant to seep or spray from any leaks, if your engines dripping coolant from the front chances are good its a worn water pump, or leaking freeze plugs, if the cars more than 4-5 years old.


viewtopic.php?f=62&t=846&p=1621&hilit=freeze#p1621

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=755

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html


http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_are_the_ ... ead_gasket

C4 related info
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=832

heres a different tool you'll need on occasion

"A combustion test kit can be found at your local NAPA, auto parts store. The part number is 700-1006. The price for this part is less than $50.00. Exhaust gases in your cooling system can suggest a head gasket leak, a cracked block, or a warped head, etc. A leaking head gasket can create excessive heat and pressures exceeding the ability of the radiator’s cooling capacity, and should be repaired immediately to avoid additional costly repairs

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_g ... k_test.htm

To do the test, add the blue detector fluid to the (block-tester) plastic container according to the directions, and place it onto the radiator filler neck. The squeeze bulb is placed on top of the reservoir and squeezed repeatedly (Some block testers, have a tube that connects to a vacuum line instead of a squeeze bulb). Squeezing the bulb will draw air from the radiator through the test fluid. Block tester fluid is normally blue. Exhaust gases in the cooling system will change the color of the fluid to yellow, indicating a combustion leak. If the fluid remains blue, exhaust gases were not present during the test. The vehicle should be started and at operating temperature before performing the test. Vehicles with head gasket leaks may overheat, and purge hot water and steam out of the radiator. Perform this test, at your own risk, and do not do the test, unless you are experienced and are wearing clothing and equipment to protect you from burns, or injury. For an overheating specialist in your area that is familiar with this procedure go to http://www.narsa.com.

Sometimes, engines with a head gasket leak show steam, water or white smoke exiting the exhaust pipe. Other symptoms include coolant in the oil, or oil in the radiator coolant. "

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/Radiat ... 20Tips.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_2188877_check-c ... leaks.html

http://www.shopperschoice.com/item_name ... 74867.html

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/en_mainte ... 87,00.html

http://www.shopperschoice.com/item_name ... ce=froogle

YOU'LL NEED A BLACK LIGHT to use the dye!

http://www.scoe10x.com/scripts/prodView ... FQodW3D9CQ

http://www.cheapnovelty.com/handheld-blacklight.html

keep in mind milky looking oil in the engine and a compression test showing a low cylinder(S), and smoke from the tail pipes usually indicates a bad head gasket or cracked head or block, oily milky crap in the coolant but clean oil and the engine running ok, tends to indicate a cracked radiator and that also frequently results in milky trans fluid which will quickly kill the transmission
coolant mixed with oil has almost no ability to lubricate or prevent rust, a leaking head gasket,a cracked head, or leaking intake gasket, etc. will allow the two fluids to mix, if the problems not quickly corrected, the engine run with the mix being pumped to the bearings is in for major damage too occur

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: radiator &pressure test equipment, cheap and easy diagno

Instructions

1.
Step 1

See if your water pump is leaking. The water pump pushes coolant through the heater core, engine and radiator. A vague coolant smell or spots of antifreeze under your Corvette when parked briefly indicate a worn out water pump.
2.
Step 2

Look for cracked, collapsed, leaking or dry hoses. Check upper and lower radiator hoses, heater and bypass hoses and manifold coolant hoses. Your upper hoses measure about 2 inches wide and transport coolant between the radiator and engine. Damaged hoses lead to cooling system problems.
3.
Step 3

Check the coolant amount. Overheating and other cooling problems can result from low antifreeze levels. With low levels, add DEX-COOL extended life coolant to the expansion tank reservoir. This applies to the 6.0L V8 and 7.0L V8 engines.
4.
Step 4

Drain and flush the cooling system to help identify problems. Disposing antifreeze properly is as important as draining it because the sweet smell of coolant attracts animals and small children. Ingesting the poisonous liquid can be deadly.
5.
Step 5

Inspect the radiator cap for signs of wear and tear. For instance, corrosion often plagues a worn out cap. Find a mechanic to use a pressure tester or an adapter to inspect the cap's pressure rating and functioning. Promptly replace a defective cap.
6.
Step 6

Wash and gently scrub the front of your radiator. When you drive, dirt, rocks, leaves and other debris pull into the fins of your radiator causing overheating. Clean it with soapy water, a soft nylon brush and a garden hose to rinse.
7.
Step 7

Examine the thermostat for sticking. A couple of ways to identify a stuck thermostat are constant low temperature readings or peaks between high and normal temperatures. Your thermostat, the spring-loaded valve that reacts to coolant temperatures, is usually located inside the housing on the engine side of the upper radiator hose.



BTW have you tried some coolant system sealant?,
in about 15%-20% of the cases the stuff actually works as it says it will

http://www.techshopmag.com/Article/6781 ... leaks.aspx

is your radiator copper, plastic or aluminum?

honestly the fast cheap and easy route is after you've located the leak,is a good cleaning of the area and after removing the radiator from the car and use some J&B weld if its one of the stock plastic or combo plastic and aluminum radiators, most radiator shops don,t charge all that much for professional cleaning and repair welding but if your stuck some place and need to do the repair on the spot..

you mix the epoxy flow it into the area with a straw from both sides of the fins, let it set up,

then throw this in the radiator

http://jbweld.net/products/permoseal.php