Re: little M sportman/ SHP

here,s where having a good deal of experience tends to make you look at things with a different perspective

if your goal is an engine with lets say 450-500 hp as it may be in this case that O.E.M. block from summit is not a bad choice as it will allow you to build the engine at a reasonable cost, but it has significant limitations that will not make it a decent choice if your horsepower goals significantly exceed that power level

a DART block costs about twice as much but it has significantly thicker castings in the cylinder wall and main web area with a higher strength alloy, that will make the block much more rigid and maintain .230 thick cylinder walls even on a 4.165 bore while a stock block will have a great deal of difficulty maintaining a .100 cylinder wall with a mere .060 over bore

http://www.dartheads.com/products/aitdo ... ile_id/52/



viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=47

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=3169&p=8452&hilit=sonic#p8452

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=110

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1489&p=3360&hilit=+books#p3360

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=111

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1738

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1027
these threads, above and their sub links have many answers, and yes its going to take some time but its well worth the effort if you want a good well thought thru combo

the stock OEM components are rated by chevy, to with stand 350-400hp and 5700rpm-6000rpm,obviously we all know guys that have pushed their components to exceed those limits, but stress is cumulative, and the harder you push or the more frequently you push past those limits the more likely you are to experience component failures
look at the rated hp

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyBa ... 05123.html

the DART SHP Chevy Small Blocks are significantly stronger castings in the stressed areas and are rated UP TOO 600hp, the little m blocks are even stronger

http://www.dartheads.com/products/shp-c ... locks.html

http://www.dartheads.com/products/engin ... locks.html

it would make very little sense to build an engine thats intended to produce over about 500-550 hp on a STOCK PRODUCTION Chevy block simply because the main caps will walk or the lifter bores will crack or the cylinder walls will begin to flex ETC. at some point, and that point will be noticeably lower in the power curve than an aftermarket block , thats been properly machined, Ive got splayed 4 bolt main caps and use all ARP hardware in my block and Im still reluctant to push it much past those limits, because I see the results far to often in my shop, when guys insist on spinning the nearly stock engines to 7k plus or dropping a 150-200hp worth of nitrous,or use of stock bolts on an engine without the proper mixture and ignition controls and all forged components.
DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once you've got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!


heres a good source for SBC info

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

heres a good source for SBC AND BBC info


http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmEngineBook.htm

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

how to assemble an engine basics on video


these books, have a great deal of sbc related info you'll want to know



HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231793&sr=1-1

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfe...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231760&sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunick...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231724&sr=1-1

OEM BLOCKS , are NOT as strong as the THICKER AFTERMARKET BLOCKS
main%20web%20crack.jpg

crackedbore.jpg

bblock.jpg

chevblockparts003.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
already got


JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

graham hansen how to build big-inch chevy small blocks

and a few older rebuild books

but more info is always better so i def. read the links
 
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html


Dart Machinery's Little M Sportman Chevy Small-Block - Quick Tech
From the October, 2010 issue of Car Craft
By John McGann
Photography by John McGann

Ccrp 1010 Dart Machinerys Little M Sportman Chevy Small Block Engine
Dart's Little M Sportsman
Dart Machinery was founded in a backyard garage nearly 30 years ago by Richard Maskin. The company makes aftermarket engine blocks at a variety of price points for small and big Chevrolets and Fords. We have access to one of its Little M Sportsman Chevy small-blocks and thought we'd take the opportunity to compare it side-by-side with a production Chevy small-block at JMS Racing Engines in El Monte, California.

A. Siamesed Bores
That's JMS' block machinist Sal Alcaraz shining his flashlight down the water jacket of the production Chevy block. Look into the core plug opening-see the sliver of light between the cylinders? This block is nonsiamesed: The barrels of the cylinders do not touch. All production small-blocks except for the relatively rare 400s are cast this way. The Dart block has siamesed cylinders-they touch each other in a row at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. This makes the cylinders very rigid, which results in a better ring seal.

B. Deck Thickness
The Dart block has a deck thickness of 0.675 inch. With a production block, you'd be lucky to find one with a 0.400-inch-thick deck. You get a better head gasket seal, perfect for high-compression or power-adder applications. All the cylinder head bolts in the Dart block are blind-they don't open into the water jackets like a production block. This prevents any chance of coolant from seeping up the head bolts and eventually creeping into the cylinders.

C. Cylinders
You can get a Dart Little M Sportsman block in either 4.00- (350) or 4.125-inch (400) bore sizes. However, you can bore the Dart blocks out to a maximum 4.185 inches. That's bigger than you could ever dare go with a production block. The deck height is 9.025 inches-the same as a production, as are nearly all the other dimensions of this Little M. You have a choice of either standard 350 main bearing journal sizes, which are 2.450 inches, or the slightly bigger journals of a 400 at 2.650 inches. The rear main seal for all Little M Sportsman blocks is the early two-piece design.

D. Crankcase Clearance
A production 400 engine came with a 3.75-inch stroke, and that crankshaft is what guys use to build 383s out of a 350 block. The maximum stroke Dart recommends is 3.875 inches. Combine that with a maximum 4.185-inch bore, and you will have a 426.4ci engine. Better call it a 427, though.

E. Main Caps
Most small-blocks came with two-bolt main caps from the factory. You don't need a lot of clamping force in a 175hp Malibu engine. The Little M also has four-bolt main caps, but notice that the outer bolts are situated at an angle rather than straight like the production caps. This splayed bolt design is superior because it spreads the clamp load over a much wider surface than the straight cap design. The caps themselves are made with ductile iron rather than the cast-iron alloy used at the factory. It is stronger and less resistant to fatigue and cracking than the factory material.

Oiling
One of the biggest improvements over a stock block is Dart's oiling system. Dart's block deviates from the production block by sending filtered oil from the pump to the main bearings first. After building pressure at the mains, oil goes to the cam bearings and lifters, then on to the cylinder heads through the pushrods. This priority main oiling system differs from a production block that sends oil to the cam bearings first before the main bearings. Priority main oiling is better because the crankshaft is subjected to much greater forces than a camshaft. There are additional bosses cast into the lifter valley that can be drilled for a dry-sump scavenging.

Which One to Buy?
Dart's tech guys told us sales are split right down the middle for 4.00- or 4.185-inch blocks. Since the price for either bore size is the same, we wondered why anyone would buy a 4.00-inch-bore block when the 4.125-inch block costs the same. Some racing classes limit bore size to 4.00 inches, some guys have a bad block but good 4-inch internals, and some guys just want a 4.00-inch-bore block to build a 327 or 350 to match the badges on their fenders. Otherwise, buy the 4.125-inch Little M Sportsman and build yourself a big small-block.
 
Blew both my head gaskets... Well, they were leaking. :mrgreen:

Will eventually order a short block from US a 400 or larger CID. Low compression. 10-12 boost.

You seem to have found a source... Wolfman, was it? I'm plotting how much this is gonna cost... Reasonable prices? If I recall, it took him several months to ship...

D.
 
Back
Top