Re use of rings

John C Stidman

New Member
Hello. New here and new to building. Bought a power house 383 stroker kit. Had the balance the crank ect and get it ready just for me to slap together. My issue is after i got it together and btoke in the cam and lifters i drive around for about 100 maybe 200 miles at most. It was always getting alot oil comming out the breathers on the valve covers. I was told by dyno shop that i may have installed my rings wrong. I decided to strip it down to just the crank left. Cylinders all look gd and smooth. They did all the block prep and boreing. Anyways i has some of the top compression rings upside down and had dome switched with the bottom comp rings. So basically they were all mixed up and in wrong. Do i need to buy new rings and start over or will these rings be ok to reuse with proper installation. I didnt realize the diff in the comp rings with the dot on top. Ect. Thanks for any and all info. This is a 350 bored 30 ovet. Big cam. Hyd lifters,roller rockers, aluminum heads, not sure if you need specifics for my question. There is no wear in the cylenders. You can barely see a faint mark where the top ring stops about inch down the cyl. But cant feel anything when you feel it up and down so it dont feel like any wear. Also i was told that the rings go up and down both ways so it wont hurt to reuse them. I think they are moly rings. To just make sure i reinstall them right.

John
 
well certainly new rings are an option, here,
but ID check the end gaps are correct and re-install the rings in the correct piston grove with the correct side facing up , and theres a decent chance it will have the rings re-seat,
your pr0blem is hardly all that rare, clean the pistons check the ring groves are clean and relocate the rings correctly, in most cases they will reseal.
Ive seen that mistake made several times and in most cases the rings do re-seal
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no one has mastered all the skills and going back over even rather common assembly skills and looking for tips on how to improve existing procedures seldom hurts.
as time progresses, theres always on-going documented testing, and in many cases the old established way of doing things has proven to be less than ideal as newer and more detailed testing proves.
I well remember the advice in the later 1960s to keep end gaps on upper piston rings in the .004-.005 per inch of bore diameter, and secondary compression rings , to a tighter .04 max per inch of bore diam, as they experience less heat related expansion, the gaps could be tighter, well testing over the last 40-50 years has proven that approach to be less than idea, a looser .005-.006 second compression ring end gap is now been rather conclusively proven to work a bit better as it tends to lower and trapped combustion pressure, that could reduce the top rings bore seal.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/
 
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Thank you. I was thinking that. I have a parts washer and ots 50/50 paint thinner and deisel. I cleaned them thouroughly and everything up. Will put alot of assembly lube on all the moving parts again. Another quick question if i may. I noticed theres now some play on the connecting rods. When i torked them they slid side by side some but they now have a little up and down play. Juat barely enough to make a slight clank when you jiggle them on the crankshaft. Is that normal after a breaknin amd that many miles. Or will i nees new bearings for the connecting rods. Its not alot but noticeable.
 
NEVER GUESS, DEAL IN PROVEN FACT!
Id get out the plasti-gauge and check clearances, don,t guess , know exactly what your dealing with!
if the clearance falls in spec and the bearings look decent they can be re-used, but its foolish to do so if they look overly dirty, worn or don't have the correct clearances
lots of moly assembly lube and spraying any potential moving contact surface with moly spray (like bearings ,lifters rockers) and liberal use of moly assembly lube during the break-in process helps reduce wear issues
keep in mind ALL engines run on USED BEARINGS AND RINGS,LIFTERS,ROCKERS AND CAMS, simply because the first time you start the engine, all the components are no longer new ,out of the box parts,
yes both rings and bearings and contact surfaces like rockers, cam lobes and lifter bases benefit from a coat of moly spray and moly assembly lube
they are now USED PARTS.. but coating all the friction surfaces with a good slick layer of moly based lubricants to protect them until the flow of warm pressurized oil can form a protective barrier is simply smart insurance, especially because moly embeds into micro surfaces, and forms a very effective secondary protective layer of lubricant.


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pre-spraying all bearing and valve train components with a moly based spray, helps embed micro moly lubricants in the metallic surface micro fissures , a good paste lube like cranes assembly lube over the spray surface helps insure a good lubricant surface coating, that is far stronger than just the ZINC and PHOSPHATES in oil
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CAREFULLY
.. reading links and SUB LINKS is almost mandatory on this web site!
if you want all available useful related info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/#post-26440

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-reuse-bearings.5544/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68194

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/assembly-lube-summary.6352/#post-68508

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/#post-57371

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Molybdenum is a very hard metal with a number of industrial uses.
It is combined with chromium in steel to make the steel harder and more resistant to bending. Most of the bicycle frames produced today use chromium and molybdenum steel. Because the steel is so much harder, the manufacturers can use less, thereby making the frame lighter.

Molybdenum Disulfide (Moly) has been used for decades in lubricating pastes and greases because it is extremely slippery and forms a protective coating on metal parts.

Moly exists as microscopic hexagonal crystal platelets Several molecules make up one of these platelets. A single molecule of Moly contains two sulfur atoms and one molybdenum atom. Moly platelets are attracted to metal surfaces. This attraction and the force of moving engine parts rubbing across one another provide the necessary thermochemical reaction necessary for Moly to form an overlapping protective coating like armor on all of your engine parts. This protective armor coating has a number of properties that are very beneficial for your engine.

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The Moly platelets that make up the protective layers on your engine surfaces slide across one another very easily. Instead of metal rubbing against metal, you have Moly platelets moving across one another protecting and lubricating the metal engine parts.

This coating effectively fills in the microscopic pores that cover the surface of all engine parts, making them smoother. This feature is important in providing an effective seal on the combustion chamber. By filling in the craters and pores Moly improves this seal allowing for more efficient combustion and engine performance.
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This overlapping coating of Moly also gives protection against loading (perpendicular) forces. These forces occur on the bearings, and lifters. The high pressures that occur between these moving parts tend to squeeze normal lubricants out.



Eventually, there is metal to metal contact, which damages these moving parts and creates large amounts of heat. Fortunately, this is not the case with some lubricants.The layer of moly that forms on these moving surfaces can withstand pressures of 500,000 psi, without being squeezed out.

Engineers and scientists have tried for years to use Moly in motor oils but they had been unsuccessful because they could not find a way to keep Moly in suspension. Once Moly was put into suspension it would gradually settle out. It was easy to see it come out of suspension because a black sludge would collect on the bottom of the oil containers. In engines it would settle to the bottom of the crankcase or clog oil pathways and filters.

Engineers have overcome these obstacles. They have developed a process that keeps Moly in suspension and isn’t filtered out. Since that time theproduct has undergone extensive independent testing in labs and in the field for many years to insure that the product stands up to the rigorous needs of today’s engines. With the plating action of Moly reducing friction which reduces heat, this helps keep rings free from carbon buildup, prevents blow-by, decreases emission, and extends oil life.
 
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