rear differential

Discussion in 'Drive Train and Tires: Repairs and Modifications' started by rlphvac, Aug 25, 2010.

  1. rlphvac

    rlphvac Well-Known Member

    I`m confused on rear gears & dont know what route to go I bought a new carrier that I spent many hours grinding ,sanding & polishing to look like chromb yes we had a long bad winter & I was bored I know its a dana 44 & I want to run 3:73 gears it will eventuially be a 220r4 & a 434 CI motor I dont know wether to have mine rebuilt or buy a new one & what kind & brand any info would help . Also off topic I bought new window motors & gears & they give you a packet of red grease I`m wondering if I should add the whole packet because the car isnt painted yet & I`m worried about seepage
     
  2. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member


    ok, first the grease generally gets used on the gears and pivot points in the window actuator and roller wheels and its designed not to drip/seep or migrate, if its put on reasonably heavy in the required areas

    IM not really clear on what your asking but it seems like your asking if the dana44 that you cleaned and polished up can be rebuilt with 3.73:1 rear gears, the answer depends on the differentials basic structural condition ,but in most cases they get rebuilt

    READ

    viewtopic.php?f=33&t=905&p=1470#p1470
     
  3. rlphvac

    rlphvac Well-Known Member

    grumpy I checked the carrier very well before doing all the polishing -etc I guess my ? is should I go with a whole new assembley & what kind there are so many out there eaton , detroit locker etc & info and answers are harder to find than a 40 year old virgin this is where I`m getting confused
     
  4. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-44- ... 0410008587

    http://www.xtremeterrain.com/dana4430sp ... ocker.aspx

    http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m ... _87460214/

    http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/store/ ... =19747-010

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0419395404

    http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2015/11/rear-axlerear-end-ratio-information/

    For a street car the Eaton/Detroit Tru Trac is good choice. The Detroit Locker might be a little stronger but most people don't care for the way it sounds or feels as it releasing.

    The week point will be the gears on the Dana 44, which are about the size of a 10 bolt rear, if your going to put a serious torque load and slicks on the car a live rear axle like a dana 60 rather than a IRS is preferred


    heres some more, info on swapping to a dana 44 that skidownit posted


    I recently installed a Dana 44 with 3.07 as a result of upgrading the
    motor to a 406. I know many people here do not trust the reliability of
    the d36's and often upgrade. As a result, many questions on what is
    needed and how hard it is to covert over are asked. I hope to supply some
    instructions on how to do the job and give some comfort to those about to
    take on the challenge.

    I am not gonna go through the details of
    each bolt and what size each are, for if you can't figure that out, I
    wouldn't advice you going any further than reading this. :)

    OK.
    Lets get started. I am gonna assume you are replacing just the
    differential, cover (batwing), driveshaft and C-beam. If you have to
    replace the entire unit, this tech tip may not offer direct assistance,
    but some of the pictures might help.

    The Dana 44 is much larger
    than the dainty36, as a result you will need a driveshaft from a manual
    car that is about 1" shorter and also a different C -Beam, both of these
    are usually supplied with the differentials, but you should check to make
    sure before you find out too late.

    The first thing you will need to
    do is secure the car up off the ground. Use all the safety needed to make
    sure you don't get hurt. Once the car is off the ground and you will
    need a bit of clearance, as the spring will bend downward quite a bit once
    released.
    Here is a shot of the Dainty36


    [​IMG]

    When
    I did mine I undid as little as possible, to make life easier, I will try
    to explain this is the same fashion I did mine.

    The first thing
    your gonna want to do is remove the 3 bolts that hold the torsion bars in
    place, you can see this in the upper right hand corner of the picture.
    And the clean hole were they came out of on the rear. DO NOT TURN the
    torsion bars themselves. I did my swap and never had to mess with
    re-aligning the car. If you turn them you will mess up the alignment
    etc.


    [​IMG]

    Here
    is another shot of it straight from the rear.


    [​IMG]

    Next
    you are gonna want to just pull it back out of the way for now. Now move
    over to the end of the black spring, seen in the picture here. There is a
    bolt on either side, you will need to support the spring SECURELY with
    something, a jack or something that is not gonna let go and rip your
    arm/hand off when you take the bolt out. There is ALOT of potential
    energy there and it comes down WAY past the end of the threaded rod, so
    when you pull the nut off you will then need to let the end down slowly
    with whatever you used to keep it in place. Make sure you are high enough
    off the ground, for the spring will make a virtual upside down U when
    fully let down.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now
    that the spring ends are completed relieved, you can move to the middle
    section and remove the two bolts that sand-witch the spacers and spring
    itself into place. Seen here in this picture.


    [​IMG]

    Now
    the spring is completely out of the way. I noted the orientation of it
    with a small scribe mark, as you will need to re-secure all the
    pieces.

    OK these next few pictures are pretty busy so i will try to
    walk you through what you see.

    On the first picture it shows the
    next two bolts you need to remove. DO NOT TURN THE BIG BOLT that looks
    like the washer if off center. That is another alignment bolt. Remove
    the other two seen just to the upper left of the big one. ( the bolts
    that hold the spring are suppose to be gone at this point)


    [​IMG]

    With
    those bolts removed you should be able to rotate those dog bones down
    towards the ground and over to the wheel. Again this is why you need alot
    of clearance under the car. These will become very valuable tools to help
    you get the half shafts out. with both of the dog bones rotated down out
    you should look like this, except the 1/2 shafts are still
    connected.


    [​IMG]

    Now
    I am gonna have to fire my camera man for he was slacking through this
    part of the project, and did not get a shot of the U-Joint straps that you
    need to remove at this point. There are two little straps that hold the
    U-joints in place, these need to be taken off each of the two 1/2 shafts
    at the differential's side. Leave the wheel side alone. Again look at
    the last picture for reference.

    Two things to be conscious of here.
    1. The u joint caps can and will fall off, when you start moving the 1/2
    shafts around. I wrapped them with electrical tape to keep them in
    place.

    2. The 1/2 shafts are kinda trapped in the
    differential's cups that the straps are bolted to, so here is where the
    dog bones come into play. You can use them as a lever to move the wheel
    and 1/2 shaft out away from the differential, since the wheel is not being
    help in place anymore. This will give you just enough room to get the 1/2
    shaft to the position you see above. Again, you need to push outward
    using the dog-bones to create enough room to get the 1/2 shafts down out.
    It should now look like this


    [​IMG]

    You
    almost have it licked now! All there is left to do is obviously get a
    support you can then lower on the differential itself and take the
    remaining two bolts out that hold it in. These are located at the ends of
    the batwing/cover. This is an earlier picture, but you can see one of the
    bolts up near the yellow that needs to be removed now.


    [​IMG]

    Now
    your ready to lower the dainty 36 down out!
    Just jocky things around
    until it clears everything.


    [​IMG]

    Take
    a break and drink a beeer for lubrication!


    [​IMG]

    If
    your new D44 is apart as mine was, make sure that both maing surfaces are
    free of dirt and dings that may lead to leaks. Thanks Dad for taking that
    responsibility on while I drink my beer.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Next
    you are gonna want to have already purchased some gasket sealer called
    "The Right Stuff". Apply it to each mating surface and put the two
    together.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once
    you have it torqued to the specifications in your manual, install the unit
    in the exact reverse order that you took it out! This is what the
    finshied product looks like!

    Congratulations!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 16, 2015

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