relacing springs in your handgun if you run plus P ammo

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
if your going to run (HOTTER OR HIGHER PRESSURE FACTORY OR HANDLOADED AMMO,)
(especially in a glock, but not limited to only a glock)
many guys will swap to a stiffer recoil spring to reduce frame wear issues and increase the time the pistol to barrel and frame remains locked after the primer ignites the cartridge powder charge, as this tends to keep the cartridge case in the chamber for a few micro seconds longer, letting the cases be supported longer before the extraction process proceeds in the process this results in less brass case expansion as the higher pressures are retained in the supported case in the barrel a few fractions of a second longer ,thus the brass has more chamber support as the pressure drops before the slide moves out from around the case during the extraction process and the bullet moves further down the bore, and/or exits and lowers the chamber pressure the brass is subjected to,
The slide has to cock the hammer or firing pin or striker spring when it recoils,
therefore the hammer or firing pin or striker spring slows down the slide, in recoil just like the slide spring does also.
Id also point out that a firmer firing pin strike on the primer generally results in brisker and more rapid primer ignition,
this can and frequently does result in higher projectile velocity's
OBVIOUSLY if the spring load rates are changed you must carefully test the pistol function remains flawless and theres no functional issues and you must shoot the ammo matched to the spring sets load rates or resistance or the pistol functional dependability is sure to be reduced.
with most guns this is not a good idea if your not sure of the ammo you'll be using of if its likely to be used with a wide range of pressure levels.
most guns are designed to operate with a factory /industry pressure level, and increased pressure can result in marginally increased or accelerated wear issues, and obviously overly high pressures are dangerous and may damage the pistol.
the 10mm is a rather unique case, in that the pistols original loads and pressure levels were generally higher than much of the subsequent ammo being sold for that cartridge and handguns run at well under what the handguns were designed to handle, and use of handloads and handload data published varies a great deal, making selecting the correct matching loads or factory ammo you'll want to use a bit less obvious.
Id also point out that with a typical GLOCK you may not want or need any extra power/velocity to make the pistol more (POWERFUL) as its very easily capable of use for self defensive work with most of the factory ammo, and that projectile selection and design improvements have made major improvements over the last 20 plus years.
I would strongly suggest you replace the plastic factory guide rod with a new recoil spring and stainless guide rod
mis- matched springs WILL CAUSE functional issue's reducing the guns dependability
read all related instructions and warnings before you replace and components, you certainly don't want to reduce durability or cause a loss in functional dependability in the pistol.






 
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if you want an all steel 10mm
find a lightly used S&W 1006 ,
H4371-L238736024.jpg


or a new EAA witness ,wonder finish,
these are REALLY WELL BUILT GUNS !
S&W 1006 10mm GENERALLY ABOUT $900-$1000 used

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EAA Witness 10mm Auto 4.5in Stainless (generally near $650 when you can find one in stock)​

8954-1.jpg


theres also a TARGET MODEL 10MM long slide single action only witness , version,
thats amazingly accurate
(it will hold groups far smaller than most people can shoot)
but it costs about $1500 VS about $650 for the standard version
(I wish I could find one in stainless at a decent price)

TanfoglioWitnessHunter-1-min.jpg
 
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