remote oil filters

Daniel dreisbach

NakedSculpture
Hi fellas, Glad to be here. I have a 96 LT1 with and Eaton m112 blower and an all custom installation. For pacaking reasons My blower sits on it's side. So I can not keep the recommended amount of oil in the blower drive and still keep it just below the seal when static. I have devised a away to put engine oil into the blower gear case and a way for it to return to the lifter valley. Since I am adding more heat to the oil I am going to add a remote oil filter and cooler. I will be using factory parts from a Firebird and remote oil filter mnt from an 03 blazer. Lines also from the trans am. I will be making the cooler from an old race car radiator.
My question is: Can I run both the stock oil filter and the remote oil filter ,one after the other (in "series" I think) without a pressure drop ? or do I need to eliminate the factory oil filter location? Any help would be appreciated.
To see what this stuff looks like go here.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/hammersandwelders/photos/?tab=album&album_id=532821696729368
 
Hi fellas, Glad to be here. I have a 96 LT1 with and Eaton m112 blower and an all custom installation. For pacaking reasons My blower sits on it's side. So I can not keep the recommended amount of oil in the blower drive and still keep it just below the seal when static. I have devised a away to put engine oil into the blower gear case and a way for it to return to the lifter valley. Since I am adding more heat to the oil I am going to add a remote oil filter and cooler. I will be using factory parts from a Firebird and remote oil filter mnt from an 03 blazer. Lines also from the trans am. I will be making the cooler from an old race car radiator.
My question is: Can I run both the stock oil filter and the remote oil filter ,one after the other (in "series" I think) without a pressure drop ? or do I need to eliminate the factory oil filter location? Any help would be appreciated.
To see what this stuff looks like go here.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/hammersandwelders/photos/?tab=album&album_id=532821696729368
Welcome.

You can try your idea.
I think it would be a better idea to use A Remote oil filter with a Stand Alone Oil to Air Cooler From Earls Racing.
Used in Nascar, Road Race, IRL, Trans Am Race series, And IMCA road race.
 
Earls makes fine stuff but I don't buy much off the shelf stuff.
I know using these GM factory parts that have millions of miles of testing on them will work just fine. and the connections are awesome and reliable. The cooler I am using is a fabricated core with more double the finns per inch of a standard radiator core and was part of the oil cooling system on an Indy car from the late 90's .
All I need to know is: can I run two oil filters in series. One after the other? The store bought dual oil filter kits run them in parallel. the oil splits and goes through both filters at the same time. I want to have them in series unless that will effect the pressure of the returning oil.
 
yes its fully possible to run two oil filters , but I would think that a adapter plate and two remote filters are the better option
(congrats on the extensive custom fabrication and required thinking of how to accomplish a goal without use of only off the shelf parts)
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when clearances allow longer length, quality oil filters provide significantly larger surface area, this tends to both reduce pressure drop,
and increase the useful filtration time before the filter tends to partially clog due to trapped debris,
yes they still require frequent replacement but they tend to do a better job, over the same time frame.
one question that always comes up, is the ideal, size and length of the fluid transmission lines required,
too feed and return hot oil from remote mounted oil coolers and transmission fluid coolers, the simple answer, visit a local professional hydraulic supply shop after taking careful measurements and verifying the type of fittings, thread types used etc.
I would strongly suggest you select, and ask to have fabricated, lines designed to handle 250F temps and 350 PSI.

keep in mind most performance cars with an auto transmission and a higher rpm stall converter, will need an auxiliary trans fluid cooler, Id strongly suggest you find one with an electric fan and 1/2" or AN#8 line size as you'll want to allow a minimum of 2 -3 gallons a minute trans fluid flow rate.
enginer oil coolers and remote mounted engine oil coolers w also benefit from use of a MINIMUM of a AN#8/1/2" inside diameter fluid transmission line .


Up to 250 GPH =4.2 GPM= 1/2" or -08 AN
nearly ideal for transmission and oil coolers :D
*
Up to 450 GPH =7.5 GPM= 5/8" or -10 AN
*
Up to 900 GPH = 15GPM 3/4"or -12 AN


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keep in mind oil does almost all the initial engine cooling so adding a larger efficient oil cooler with a fan
, and as large an oil pan as clearances allow goes a long way toward reducing engine temps,
you certainly will see a difference if a properly sized and installed oil cooler is used.

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you don,t need something this large in most cases
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-700040
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something like this makes a noticeable improvement
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15800

remember to accurately measure the area you intend to install any oil cooler,
and leave lots of room for the connecting high pressure oil feed & return lines and access to connect them.
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assuming the proper bearing clearances and proper oil pump, was selected,ans oil pump pick-up installation were done,
the two most common reasons I see for low oil pressure are related to either the oil pump pick-up mounted too close to the oil pan floor
(3/8' clearance is about ideal) or trash/debris getting into the oil pressure bye-pass valve spring area


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when you inspect the bye-pass piston and spring or replace the oil pumps bye-pass spring, in the oil pump you must be certain it smoothly slides through the internal passage , if it binds it will cause issues with erratic oil pressure
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your typical small block oil pump has a 4 bolt cover, a 5/8" pick-up tube diameter and the pick-up presses into the cover , it has the smaller 7 tooth gears, and because the pick-up tube presses into the cover swapping from a standard to a high volume pump, with its longer impeller and hoseing casting, tends to move the pick-up about 1/4" closer to the oil pan floor
keep in mind that as oil temps increase the oil viscosity tends to decrease, thus cold oil, at lets say 70F might cause the oil pressure gauge to read 50 psi at idle but the pressure reading slowly goes down to 25 psi once the oils reached lets say 210F, this is normal and expected

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REMEMBER the oil pump bye-pass is designed to limit oil pressure reaching the oil passages in the block,to usually 65psi-75psi max, by opening and re-routing oil from the pressure side of the oil pump to the suction side of the gears one its forced open, this is not the same and has nothing to do with the oil filters oil bye-pass valve,
yes the BYE-PASS IN THE OIL FILTER DOES normally open on cold mornings, or under rapid changes in engine rpms, especially before the heat from the engine lowers the oils effective viscosity, Im fairly sure you have heard or remember hearing advise not to go doing stupid stuff like burn outs in your drive way until the engines reached and maintains operational temps
(usually oil and coolant has reached 190F-215F) well one big reason is that thicker oil viscosity when oils cooler ,takes a good deal more pressure to force thru the filter medium, once the oils fairly hot it flows better, and requires less pressure as it offers less resistance to flow thru the engines clearances and thru the filter, that in turn means that hot oil with its thinner effective viscosity tends to be far less likely to force open the filter bye-pass circuit and that means oil bye-passing the filter medium is far less likely to drag metallic trash held in suspension with it to reach the bearings to cause more rapid wear.the oil filter bye-pass is designed to bye-pass oil to the engine rather than forcing it thru the oil filter any time the pressure on the inlet side of the oil filter is higher than about 10 psi over oil pressure passing thru the oil filter, this in theory prevents the semi clogged oil filter from starving the bearing of oil.but it also means that during rapid rpm changes or before the oils up to operational temps some oil is routed around and past the filter, under the concept that dirty pressurized oil is far superior to no oil reaching the bearings.
MORE USEFUL INFO
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-filters-related-info.2080/#post-54352

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-60558

they still sell these and you could modify them or use as designed
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this lower designs what Ive used for decades:like:
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