I am replacing the brakes on a 67' and want to fix the parking brake too. I read that I need to drill out the rivots to remove the rotor. I can not really see in those holes very well to find rivots. The books I have say nothing about putting it back together or much of anything. I saw what you did in the trailing arm rebuild with the bolts but I am not a machinist. So really need balls to drill out rivots and put back together some how.
Removing rear rotor
- Thread starter Teddy
- Start date
The rivets are on the rotor hat in between the studs. They are flat faced and sounds like they're already gone if you have open holes there. If so then the rotor has probably been replaced before. You can remove it and replace the PB hardware and shoes. I do some minor facing on the star wheel parts as most are too long and don't collapse the shoes enough, thus causing drag. You must check the rotor runout and correct it to under 005" I set all mine jobs to under 003"
Gary
Gary
TEDDY, pictures are a HUGE help, and yes I know its a P.I.T.A. at times to take and post them,I know I should do a great deal more, pictures and IM trying to get my computer geek kids with degrees in computer science to teach the old geezer how and loan me thier camera or teach me how to download from the wifes digital camera.
http://photobucket.com/
my kids say this is reasonably good place to put photos on the web for free
http://photobucket.com/
my kids say this is reasonably good place to put photos on the web for free
Is the axle suppose to spin freely? (both rotors are off)Mine takes a little force. I was wondering because when i adjust the parking brake i need to feel for them grabing. am i wrong
I might not replace the parking brake pads. just clean and lube and adjust so they work. I dont think i want to get involved with spindle off.
I might not replace the parking brake pads. just clean and lube and adjust so they work. I dont think i want to get involved with spindle off.
Teddy,
It looks like those brakes have been sitting awhile by the stained rotor. You're going have to check the BF to be sure it's not muddy looking,if so then you have mositure in it and it will lock up the calipers if bad enough, SS lined calipers and all. Also it will swell the hose ID shut and lock the calipers on.
The rotors have been off, maybe replaced. You need to mic them to check the thickness, should not be under 1.215", new = 1.250" If good use a D/A to deglaze them. Then you have to check the runout or you'll be bleeding the brakes every week.
It looks like those brakes have been sitting awhile by the stained rotor. You're going have to check the BF to be sure it's not muddy looking,if so then you have mositure in it and it will lock up the calipers if bad enough, SS lined calipers and all. Also it will swell the hose ID shut and lock the calipers on.
The rotors have been off, maybe replaced. You need to mic them to check the thickness, should not be under 1.215", new = 1.250" If good use a D/A to deglaze them. Then you have to check the runout or you'll be bleeding the brakes every week.