renegade intake? for cross fires

lol

and I'm reading through Indy's thread right now, currently on the chat about oils.

This got me thinking about break in oil as I'm getting closer to that time...

Thoughts on break in oil?

I was thinking about this: http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV2...e_p_img_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0APBS3CT5QG4JFCDK4T5

Also Crane says to use their additive or you void the warranty, so add their add in to this oil, or is there a better choice?
I also looked at actual break-in oil but man that stuff sure costs a lot...
 
Also I have in the past taken high power neodymium magnets and stuck them in my trans pan, however yesterday getting ready to order some for the oil pan I ran into some interesting information...
the magnets I have been using loose their power at about 170 F, turns out for engine use you should use a samarium cobalt type...
so I'm sure I have a few dead magnets that need to be removed from my transmission pan... :)
 
I made the order, I should have my heads by this weekend.
I feel pretty sure now that the 70cc heads are the best option. :cool:
My headgasket is on backorder, summit said expected ship date in Dec, Jegs had a note that said in stock until checkout, from there it said expected ship date 11/12, however now it shows expected ship date 11/23.
So I have a good excuse to do some extra work while I wait...

And I finally got the rack and pinion shipped out to turnone, so far the quote is a bit higher than expected but they have to sleeve my rack and it should be better than new when complete.

I also bought some cross buffs and cartridge rolls to do some smoothing and polishing.

And on that note, is there any reason why I should not smooth out the runners in the intake ect?
 
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Gibbles said:
and I'm reading through Indy's thread right now, currently on the chat about oils.

This got me thinking about break in oil as I'm getting closer to that time...

Thoughts on break in oil?

I was thinking about this: http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV2...e_p_img_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0APBS3CT5QG4JFCDK4T5

Also Crane says to use their additive or you void the warranty, so add their add in to this oil, or is there a better choice?
I also looked at actual break-in oil but man that stuff sure costs a lot...
Click to expand...

Gosh it looks like we have been ignoring you for the last three of your posts......SORRY !!!!!!

I believe that as long as you use a well know oil and the supplement recommended by Crane you should be good to go. I used Lucas because of the better price and I did not use any additives since I'm using a roller cam. Only flat tappets need extra ZDDP.
 
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Gibbles said:
Also I have in the past taken high power neodymium magnets and stuck them in my trans pan, however yesterday getting ready to order some for the oil pan I ran into some interesting information...
the magnets I have been using loose their power at about 170 F, turns out for engine use you should use a samarium cobalt type...
so I'm sure I have a few dead magnets that need to be removed from my transmission pan... :)
Click to expand...

You can get these Hi-Temp magnets that are good up to 302°F, should be be plenty of room for safety factor on the heat.

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=167
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC4SH&cat=167
or
http://www.magnet4sale.com/samarium-cobalt-discs/
Material: NdFeB, Grade N42SH

KJMagnetics.jpg
 
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Gibbles said:
I made the order, I should have my heads by this weekend.
I feel pretty sure now that the 70cc heads are the best option. :cool:
My headgasket is on backorder, summit said expected ship date in Dec, Jegs had a note that said in stock until checkout, from there it said expected ship date 11/12, however now it shows expected ship date 11/23.
So I have a good excuse to do some extra work while I wait...

And I finally got the rack and pinion shipped out to turnone, so far the quote is a bit higher than expected but they have to sleeve my rack and it should be better than new when complete.

I also bought some cross buffs and cartridge rolls to do some smoothing and polishing.

And on that note, is there any reason why I should not smooth out the runners in the intake ect?
Click to expand...

It's going to be Christmas early at the Gibbles house !!!

Which head gasket did you order??? Size? Material?

Where do you buy your abrasives???
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/
http://b2bprofessionaltools.com/abrasives.html
http://www.abrasivesupply.com/
http://www.grithappens.com/products.php?m=standardabrasives&mid=105&cat=803

NO , you don't want to smooth out the casting surface anywhere in the intake tract. It needs to be rough. Now the exhaust can be polished mirror smooth if you got the time.
 
Thanks for the links!

And I'm glad I asked, I would of gone for a mirror shine in all the ports! :D

Headgasket: Copper SCE 4.060 X.021
Link: http://www.jegs.com/i/SCE+Gaskets/829/P11062/10002/-1

I also ordered a zinc anode to counteract some issues I might run into with the differing metals.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-32060

For break in oil I was looking at this stuff since it has ZDDP
Valvoline VR1 conventional race oil in 10w30 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ4FMK2

The price is pretty good, however I noticed this stuff today for another $10

Lucas Oil 10630-6PK SAE 30WT Break-In Oil
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RWACQA

I also have a soda blaster I bought when I refurbed the big boat, I was thinking it might be a good choice to clean up those throttle bodies.
For the most part it does not do any damage, but it did leave a mild satin finish on aluminum parts.

And I also have some left over aluminum prep wash, it was something I had to do prior to painting parts to get a good stick.

I was thinking it might help with gasket sealing surfaces, it will also clean copper and remove the oxidation...
 
Either oil looks like a good choice along with the Crane supplement to cover your ass
for warranty purposes.

Are you wanting to paint your aluminum pieces, looking to make it a sleeper when you
raise the hood?

Can you explain/name this cleaner that you are talking about using?

Since you are getting close to assembly you might want to check out the following thread.
It will help keep track of the multitude of things that must me done. There is even paper
or Excel to fit most anyone's abilities.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...heck-build-sequence-tracking.4894/#post-19401
 
Oh no, I want it to be obvious what I did to the car when I raise the hood.
That and my intake manifold is polished... :cool:

There is nothing sleeper about a vette, I get all of the kiddies with their imports trying to race me as it is ;)

I was thinking about using it only on the sealing surfaces for a better bond/seal.

I can just use a swab and target areas I want clean and then rinse it off after a good 10/20 min

And the stuff I used on the boat (it has an aluminum hull): PPG dx533 aluminum cleaner
http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/...4437599B/02/p-226_dx_metal_treatment_2-13.pdf

I buy it from a paint supply shop not to far away from me, they supply trailer builders, autobody shops, ect.

And yes a check list would be very helpful, it's way to easy to overlook things.
 
Sounds like it would be good to have some DX533 on hand, never know when it would be needed.
 
it has been quite handy to have around.

And one thing I love about summit, they have a warehouse one state over.
I don't know how they manage it but I always get my orders next day with standard shipping!

I did a quick look over my new heads, castings are very clean, much better than what I saw with the import casting heads.

I broke out the real camera...
lighting was poor since one of my garage lights took a crap, so I had a hard time with the macro setting...
upload_2015-11-12_17-42-55.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-38-29.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-38-56.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-39-28.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-40-2.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-40-35.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-41-0.png
upload_2015-11-12_17-41-36.png

Not to bad for $1,000?
 
Also what I understood is these are the same castings as the RPM heads, just with less machining, finishing, different/cheaper springs, and I'm sure cheaper/different valves.
 
yeah, I can predict, a future of a few hours carefully cleaning up and blending the port walls after looking at those pictures , if your looking to maximize flow numbers
 
I noticed there is quite the ridge/slope where they cut into the intake port.

Feel free to point out problem/interest areas to focus on, however I'm going to start reading up...
 
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You will want to blend the best you can without removing the casting surface texture. Use the roughest cartridge roll you have.

All in all, those are some very nice pictures. Just a couple looks like you needed a tripod to get a crisp focus.

Combustion chamber shape is different/interesting from the others I've seen. Looks like a bathtub.
 
Bathtub seems pretty accurate.

I have a tripod somewhere, however my camera does not want to focus in low light. I'll see if I can get better pictures this weekend.

and I'm enjoying my CFI, I'm a little late to the party for a lot of the stuff that was available a short time ago tho.

DCS had a lot of nice things available.
 
Well I got the heads apart today, I took a box and poked holes in it for the valves.

I was happy to see that Edlebrock numbered the heads #1 and #2, from there using the number stamps as a starting point I numbered the valves 1-8 head #1 and 1-8 head #2.

Same thing with the valves and retainers, I used some plastic bags cut them up to hold everything together, and then taped them over with the designation.

I also pulled two valves out of my oem heads and did some spot cleaning, I think they fit just good enough to protect the seat :cool:

tomorrow I'll start with the cleanup and polishing tasks, and I'll get more pictures as well with better lighting.
 
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