replacement parts that don,t quite fit!!

[grumpyvette]

I seem to be overly trusting, when I buy parts at some auto parts store, I stupidly assume they will fit the application I requested, and even after 45 years of finding out that's not always the case, I still assume it will be,
obviously your eventually forced to admit to yourself that there will be times when parts that supposedly fit DON,T!
Id also strongly suggest you compare both prices and part quality or at least try to select well known brand name parts, most of the bottom dollar import parts I see are LOW QUALITY,and if you take the time to carefully measure the parts you find dimensional or material quality differences.
I well remember a $14 chevy bargain basement, imported timing chain and gear set a friend brought over , he got from the local auto parts bargain bin,that was a full 9 degrees out of specs

your forced to either return the defective component for a different brand that at least in theory will be a better match or you'll be forced to do the minor clearance work, polishing, re-threading or other mods required, to get things to fit!

now on the more critical components like bearings, and valve springs you generally expect to use a micrometer, spring micrometer, dial caliper, feeler gauges and PLASI-GAUGE or some type of measuring device, to verify clearances . but on the less critical components you tend to just assume they fit if they look nearly identical to the old component.....thats where they get you!, things like brake calipers,disc brake pads,freeze plugs, shocks, ball joints, tie rods etc. are not always directly interchangeable and the quality of the machine work and tolerances tend to be a bit LAX, or lets say not kept to the same measure of detailed inspection, threaded holes don,t always arrive without burrs, or the axis of the bolt holes or spacing may be a bit out of alignment, ball joints frequently require a bit of minor clearance work with a belt sander or file on rougher castings, you may need to use a tap & die set to fix threads. Ive even had bolts neatly packaged in plastic bags in the kits with ball joints that could not possibly be used in the application.
so take out the dial calipers and MEASURE and get out the taps and dies and verify the thread pitch before you drive your self insane wondering why a metric bolt was shipped for an SAE bolt hole, why a tie rod is threaded with a metric thread but your old part was threaded SAE, or why a ball joint thats .010 larger that the one you removed is so darn difficult to re-install.
read these links & threads

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4294

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3449&p=9134&hilit=+assembly+lube#p9134

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=2733


http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html

Clevite 77 Plastigage
P/N Color Oil Clearance Range
MPG1 green .001 in - .003 in (.025 - .075 mm)
MPR1 red .002 in - .006 in (.050 - .15 mm)
MPB1 blue .004 in - .009 in (.10 - .23 mm)
MPY1 yellow .009 in - .020 in (.23 - .50 mm)

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1390

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
Plastigauge, Green Kit, 0.001 in.-0.003 in. Clearance Range, Each

"Accurately measure bearing clearances.
Made from a special extruded plastic thread with accurately controlled crush properties, Plasti-gage provides a fast and accurate way to check bearing clearances. Plasti-gage is packaged in a calibrated envelope that not only protects the plastic threads, but also serves as a scale to measure the bearing clearance. One package contains enough Plastigage to check both main and connecting rod clearance for one engine. "

now this stuff is really easy to use , it looks like green angle hair spaghetti,, you spray down your crank journal,and matched bearing surfaces with wd-40 so it won,t stick to the surfaces, lay a 1/2" long section in the center of the journal, replace the bearing cap, and torque to specs, then WITHOUT spinning the crank you disassemble the bearing cap, remove the cap and use the edge of the package the plasti-gage came in to compare the crushed width to the scale on the edge of the packaging.
simple and REASONABLY EFFECTIVE, if you don,t own snap gauges and a full set of mics.......just remember to remove it from the bearing or journal,before you proceed further, in the engines reassembly

now personally I like the stuff (PLASTI-GAGE) as a secondary way to check bearing clearances, but a decent set of mics and a machinists caliper and snap gauges is a good thing to have , and altho I use plasti-gage I don,t trust it alone to check clearances

btw spray the bearing and the crank surfaces, and the plastigage with WD40 before you measure clearances and it won,t tend to stick as much

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=5649

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=32214

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=5043

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPAGE?PMPA ... s/317-0764

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=97389

now theres FAR better QUALITY tools than the ones I linked too, but unless your doing engines on a regular basis I find these will work reasonably well, naturally if your doing it seriously youll want better quality tools

you might want too read thru this also

http://video.google.com/videosearch?oe= ... Q&start=20


viewtopic.php?f=59&t=807&p=8498&hilit=rusted#p8498

 

[grumpyvette]

AS AN EXAMPLE,I recently helped try too install a front end suspension upgrade kit ,on a 1987 corvette, in my opinion its component parts were just barely functional and the parts were of VERY low quality, ID strongly advise returning them and spending the cash for name brands like MOG or raybestos at least American made components, the grease seals , and all the ball joints had flaws
heres a link to rock auto, the same ball joint quality from several different manufacturers varies in cost from $11 to $77 each,any experienced mechanic can,t possibly believe the quality between those extremes is similar
be aware of the quality of the components you select, there are several merchants that advertise a great deal based on lower prices,
who generally deal in the lower and mid range quality products,
and their goal seems too be a low price volume discount supply house.
now Ive seen a few good deals, over the years but keep in mind,
youll generally find discount price parts, use lower quality components or,
less extensive precision machine work, or imported components or a combination of those factors to reduce price.
now I'm not picking on the lower price parts suppliers, they certainly have a place in the economy and hobby.
I use rockauto and advanced auto, walmart and several other suppliers,
if I need too ,but I generally know the parts and use name brands not cheaper import clones.
remember thats frequently a very noticeable difference in quality, in similar components,
you may pay more for name brand parts and at times the higher cost is not justified in my opinion,
but many of the better known brands do tend to have better quality control and R&D
I would suggest you do research and avoid using the lowest cost import parts like bearings, brakes, and suspension parts ,
as Ive seen horrendous quality control on some import component examples


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=g58drf76n90cbra6nih4detdi1

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4733

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette/su ... components

the owner got a DEAL on IMPORTED ball joints, we took them out of the packaging and noticed the crappy grease boot seals, as cast body and metric thread,s I suggested returning them, but we had them and the owner felt returning them would be difficult and waste a week or more time, they were difficult to press into the lower a-arm so we measured the diameter of the clamping surface diam. where it inserts into the a-arms, the original ball joints measured 2.070, the replacements measured 2.085" obviously they needed to be carefully machined to the slightly smaller diam.
a bit of research showed the import ball joints sell for about $30 each, the American made replacement parts sell for about -$57-$110 each depending on the vendor and brand selected, locally so its no surprise that many guys select the less expensive route, but it may be a mistake, the quality looked to be significantly lower, the parts needed to be slightly modified to fit and the grease boots were leaking right out of the packaging.
ON a C4 corvette,(1984-1996) the OEM ,top or upper ball joints are installed with rivets that need to be drilled out and replaced with bolts
the lowers are pressed into and out of the lower a-arm so youll need a decent press to install or remove those
these look to be better in the picture but I have not seen these personally
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-c4 ... -1122.html

KITS SOLD BY MANY VENDORS INCLUDE LESS THAN DESIRABLE QUALITY PARTS (IMPORTS OF UNKNOWN QUALITY)TO KEEP THE PRICE LOW, THIS IS ONE AREA WHERE IT PAYS TO SPEND A BIT MORE AND SELECT BETTER QUALITY PARTS

I compared the BALL JOINT COMPONENTS parts he got with AC DELCO and MOG joints , I usually use , and the imports he got that only cost 1/3rd as much. the IMPORT BARGAIN PARTS are CRAP! and thats an UNDERSTATEMENT!

THESE JOINTS BELOW APPEAR TO BE MUCH BETTER QUALITY

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... K6345.html

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... K6346.html

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_7649253_replace ... te-c4.html

MOGG and Mevotech make a decent replacement ball joint

The C4 Corvette was produced from 1984 though 1996 by Chevrolet with a control arm-based front suspension. This suspension incorporated both upper and lower ball joints. Ball joints require replacement over time. Ball joints cannot be repaired and should be replaced when the rubber boots are split or worn out. Signs of wear can include uneven tire wear, poor handling and movement of the front wheel when inspected.

Difficulty: working with common garage tools and no two post lift
Moderately Challenging

Instructions
things you'll need:

Wheel chocks
Floor jack
Jack stands
Metric sockets
Breaker bar
Pliers
Hammer
Ratchet and extensions
Metric wrench
Hydraulic press
Lower ball joint
Light lubrication oil
Torque wrench

1

Engage the emergency brake and place wheel chocks behind and in front of the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle using the floor jack, place the jack stands and lower the Corvette to securely rest on the jack stands.
2

Remove the front wheels with the assistance of the metric socket and breaker bar.
3

Place the floor jack under the front control arm and raise the jack to compress the shock absorber. Remove the two bolts securing the shock absorber to the lower control arm with a ratchet, extension and socket. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint with the aid of pliers. Remove the nut securing the lower ball joint with a metric wrench. Gently tap on the lower ball joint with a hammer to disconnect it from the suspension mounting point. Lower the floor jack and pull it away from the car.
4

Remove the four bolts that secure the control arm to the cross-member. Use a wrench on the nut side and the ratchet with a socket on the bolt side to loosen each bolt.
5

Remove the two carriage bolts that secure the lower control arm to the chassis. Use a ratchet and socket to turn the bolt and a wrench to secure the nut. Pull the
6

Remove the lower control arm from the car and position it in a hydraulic press. Use the hydraulic press to apply pressure to the top of the lower ball joint. Press the ball joint out the bottom of the control arm.
7

Apply a thin coat of oil on the control arm, in the hole for the lower ball joint. Insert the new ball joint into the control arm. Use the hydraulic press to seat the ball joint into the lower control arm.
8

Replace the lower control arm into the brackets attached to the chassis. Insert the two carriage bolts securing the control arm to the chassis. Tighten the bolts to 96 foot-pounds of torque with the torque wrench.
9

Insert the remaining bolts used to secure the control arm to the cross-member. Tighten each bolt to 96 foot-pounds with the torque wrench. Raise the control arm with the floor jack to install the shock absorber mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 22 foot-pounds of torque.
10

Insert the shaft of the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle. Install the nut securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten to 33 foot-pounds of torque. Insert a cotter pin into the lower ball joint and secure the cotter pin using a pair of pliers.
11

Install the wheels on the hubs and secure using the lug nuts. Tighten each lug nut to 100 foot-pounds of torque with the torque wrench.
12

Use the floor jack to remove the jack stand and lower the Corvette. Remove the wheel chocks and release the emergency brake.



http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wheel ... -4065.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-m ... 66958.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-sho ... 32879.html

keep in mind that if you have BOTH a two post LIFT and a HYDRAULIC PRESS, an the tools listed above you can press the lower ball joint IN AND OUT while the A-arms still on the car in MANY cars if you can move the press into the wheel well, and raise the car to the correct height to use the press


when you buy replacement parts its best to check the box contents before leaving the store and if possible compare the box contents to the used parts you brought with you, as it tends to save lots of return trips to the auto parts store!
Ive been handed alternators that were totally different in design, or missing the belt pulley, Ive even been given obvious (core deposit used parts) in a new box, or the obviously wrong parts

I bought rear disc brake pads from NAPA for my 1996 corvette, and if youve ever seen those they are not huge

when I got home the pads I found in the box were similar to these, (easily twice the size) checking I found they were front brake caliper pads for a ford F350

 

[grumpyvette]

when you buy parts think a bit about the relationship between cost and quality, and it sure helps to look at the original part or bring it with you to the local auto parts store so you can compare it before buying a replacement.
you obviously need to verify the parts fit your EXACT application, year,make, model etc.

but let me assure you Id buy the NAME BRAND MOOG part in this case
BTW, its a real good idea when you buy replacement parts locally , like brakes, belts or hoses, spark plugs, freeze plugs, wheel studs, etc. to bring the old pads or shoes , belts or hoses to the store so you can visually compare the parts the guys selling you , I don,t know why but I have seen several times where the package of brake pads or brake shoes,hoses, plugs etc. or belts bare little or no resemblance to the old ones, your replacing.
if you are buying bearings or bearing seals , or suspension components , wheel bearings and a dozen other components having a caliper handy to measure and actually comparing the parts side bye side is a good idea also,
its also a good idea to clean the older parts in a good solvent and brush and dry them so you can look for part numbers or brand names.

CLEAN PARTS AND LOOK FOR NUMBERS, BEARINGS AND SEAL USUALLY HAVE THEM

heres a link that shows front wheel bearings available for a 1985 corvette which uses a replaceable factory seal hub assembly
prices range from about $30 to over $360 , now if a part that's supposed to be similar costs 1/12th of the cost, of the same basic component , designed to fit your car, that cost from the original supplier you would be a drooling moron to assume both components were of identical quality and made from identical materials
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,1636

look at the pictures they look nearly identical, oh except some have three mount bolts and some four?? thats going to be interesting?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... c=1041208- $40

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1041208 $128

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1041208 $154

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... cc=1041208 $296

 

[87vette81big]

Yes replacement parts quaility has gone downhill Grumpy.
Have to check all yourself.
China expects you to grind, cut, modify to use thier junk.
Just Lovely fun.....

 

[grumpyvette]

Rear Wheel bearing replacement from 101m Projects –

1 Remove ABS sensore to prevent damage

2 Remove caliper assembly tie out of way
Make sure to unbolt caliper bracket mounts, not bolts that connect caliper to bracket – (I don’t know what that means)

3 remove brake rotor

4 remove cotter pin (36mm) and washer from brake assembly

5 Mark half shaft so it can be replaced same position

6 Remove UJj straps and drop half shaft

7. Undo three 55mm torx bolts that hold bearing in


Refit
1 Tighten torx bolts to 66ftlbs

2 Fit new thin Teflon coated washers on splined area of half shaft
Must fit up flush to the inside. If there is a gap they are on backwards
Put a little grease on both sides. Washers should fit directly against the bearing

3 Install halfshaft, leave caps off

4 Place caliper bracket and bearing on rear spindle- lube splines with anti seize grease

5 Install spindle washer and nut

6 Tighten nut to 164 ft lbs- get it tight on car and finish when wheels on ground

7 Replace nut retainer and fit

8 Replace brake rotor

9 Install caliper

10 Install abs sensor new cotter pin


http://www.avcorvettes.com/dwhtml/techt ... cement.pdf

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_0112_ ... ewall.html

http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetail ... .aspx?gid={0b519fb4-4470-45b5-9f64-490375bffba5}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&GroupName=Wheel+Bearings&

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jdb9R8YYUAc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVO18WUiGyA