Replacing Front hub and bearing assemble

do you have a factory shop manual for the year/model truck/car your working on?
you might be amazed at how often the manuals provide,
detailed, step by step, inspection, measurement, disassembly/ re-assembly and tool use instructions
 
2006 Silverado LT crew cab 2500HD Diesel LBZ

Well here’s what happened today.
By early morning all I had left was the hub. The part that is behind the bolt flange had just one inch, the size of the bearing and was not budging from the bracket the front axle runs through. Although I had the axle spindle pushed through I still had to pry it back to get a chisel through the back and beat on the bearing until it started to form a gap on the flange side of the hub. At that point I started to beat a wedge separating the hub until an inch of separation shown then it (the hub) fell out. Every surface had a solid scaring of rust. I just did what I could to clean it up with small wire brushes and sandpaped all over. Greased all the parts that made sense to do so and re assembled. The center spindle nut drew the CV into the bearing, torqued it to 177 ft lbs, 137 for each hub bolt.
The only problem remaining is the old dust cap doesn’t fit the new hub. The cap is a little bit too small so I have source another one somehow. I have nine hours invested saving about $500 the shop wanted to charge me for a Duralast hub That I know I didn’t need. I’m going to start lobbying the right politicians to consider dropping the state inspection system.
 
SON OF A $&#4*#-&%4%!!! I’m all done and it just occurred to me how I could have made today much easier.

Those 4 15mm bolts on the backside, if I replaced them with longer bolts, threaded them in a 1/4” - I could have hammered or impacted them to push out the hub! OMG!:angryred:
 
I already buttoned up the new hub intalled on the truck, rotor and brakes covered up but here’s the rusted hub..
 

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Ok, I learned exactly what to do so I’m sharing what I learned. If I had this tool you would never seen this thread
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So you just back off the 4 15mm bolts on the back of the steering knuckle holding the hub. Put this tool in your impact gun and you will push out the hub - that’s it!

On the Lisle tools site they sell for $28 plus, on Amazon it’s only $17 (it will be here tomorrow)

Hey, While I made this mess I might as well just do the other side now while I’m at it!
 
I wish I thought about banging on the 4 bolts on the back side - you all failed me :rolleyes:

Question, does any brand sell a drill size (shape) impact gun? You just use for slip in attachments like the bolt drivers I showed above and cutters? I don’t want what something long like a reciprocating saw.
 
Rich did you ever run across those SBC heads that you thought that you had maybe a good deal on a set of heads might do the trick of getting me started and playing with mine LOL
 
Yes, I’ve held them for longer then my last 2 kids! The company hauling the barn I bought is out by you and they have to make a few trips. Maybe this would be a great time have them strapped to a cut down pallet and put on a return trailer.
 
I ran into a similar nightmare with my first 02 Ford Explorer, I kind of hate that unlike all my earlier cars and trucks Ford use costly wheel bearing HUBS... and all four were bad, on a SUV with only 125k.

But the rears were like yours. The truck had no rust BUT for those rear wheels even the parking brake was totally rusted away. I think that happened dropping a boat off in a river or lake so only the rear wheels ever got so wet.

I was lucky as I know this good mobile mechanic and hired him to take them off, and he had a hell of a time doing it and even broke a good tool doing it.

So a brake rotor, complete parking brake parts kit and rear hub.

I wonder if that tool will work on a Ford??

Rich
 
p/n 38210
This one says Dodge but it fits over Ford bolts too. All of these lock into air hammer, electric hammers. Milwaukee and DeWalt impact guns too (not the square drives).
 
One way my job removing the hub could have been easier, either remove the CV axle so that there would be a clear opening to bash out the hub from inside the steering knuckle, or just remove the knuckle and press it out on a hydraulic press.
 
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