Running at 1500RPMs: What oil pump is needed??

racprops

Well-Known Member
Wonder what everyone thinks of this: True? False? Good idea? Or Bad?

From Don Terrill's Speed Talk thread https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=852

"GM owners found using larger throttle openings at lower RPMs trades to improve fuel economy, found increased main bearing wear.

For fifty years, the SBC pulling a three-speed tranny at 2500+ RPMs never had main bearing issues.

When the lockup/overdrive came along and computer controls allowed pulling near-WOT at 1900 RPMs, the main bearing problems began."

My 383 is being built to run at 1500RPMs and my plan is do that when cruising thanks to a second overdrive transmission.

So I now think a high volume oil pump is called for....plus the resulting higher oil pressure should pump up my Rhoads Lifters sooner...moving their peak from 3500RPMs hopefully to 3000.
 
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bearing wear is mostly the result of rapidly changing physical loads and lack of oil flow
yes if you run almost excluesively below 3000 rpm, use of a oil like 5W30 and a high volume oil pump will tend to increase bearing life as oil reaches the bearings faster, and flow rates cool better
 
Thanks here I ran into the Hot Ron mind set: Such oil pumps are a good idea for high RPMS and HP.

What about the synthetic oils and the new super oils?

Rich
 
it won't hurt to run a high volume oil pump ,
or a standard pressure and volume BBC oil pump on a SBC,
especially in a car/truck, that rarely exceeds 4500 rpm,
other than it may cost you 1-2 peak hp.
yeah the newer oils have advantages but they also cost more and you still need oil/filter changes about every 15 k miles.
swapping to a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan is generally a good idea







 
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And another rabbet hole....

Any one here can help with what 7/8 QT oil pan will fit into a 93 Chevy G20 Van?? The engine is a one piece real seal.

And If I remember correctly I will need a deep oil pump pickup.

And a correct longer dip stick?

Rich
 
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IN a van, it might be easier to add a good quality OIL COOLER ,and remote oil filters
as that adds 2-3 quarts to the oil available to the engine, making filter changes easier,
and certainly adding engine durability to tow with the van.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15900 $188
der-15900_vv_xl.jpg


remember to accurately measure the area you intend to install any oil cooler,
and leave lots of room for the connecting high pressure oil feed & return lines and access to connect them.
rmo11.jpg



 
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That sounds like a better idea. Saves on ALL the extra fuss.

And I already did this:

Plus I tied them into the vans in radiator's coolers, so that they would not run too cold in cold weather and thus would at least run at engine temps.

I disliked the silly oversized turn singles and switch to other lights....this seemed like a good idea.

Rich

PS I like your practical mind set.
 

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I do have a dual oil filter rig, will see if I can find a good place for it as well. That pair of oil coolers worked for some 10 years and some 30K miles.

Rich
 
Well, I checked everything I knew about.

But the engine was mostly built when I switched to a 383.

Freeze plugs were 95% done and from what I can see staked.

I do not see any tiny hole if any of the oil galleys plugs and they were not tapped.

I did coat the timing chain, gears and seal with assembly lube.

My understanding a windlage tray is a waste of time and parts for an engine that will never run over 5K…??

Sadly the oil pick up was put onto my stock oil pump. So that will need to be redone.

And sadly we did not any tricks or fixes to the engine other than cleaning and making sure all bearings were aligned correctly and I double checked with plastic gauge all bearings.

So I pray everything will work.

So I hope putting in a high volume pump and pickup will be the only change I need at this point.

So I skimed as much as I could and ran into information over load. Impressed.

So please advise me as to what would you run as your oil pump if you were building the very same engine.

I Can put in a windage tray if it will really help…or a crank scraper??

Here is the oil pan I planed of using:

Thanks for all your help.

Rich
 

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OK after all the research I could handle I ordered the NEW Melling Shark Tooth Oil Pump #10552ST with its 10% higher volume and pressure after talking with Dave the Tech support at Melling and also thanks to him ordered the bolt on oil pickup for my 7.1/4" oil pan # 12558.

Now I am Looking for a used 1981 to 1986 Small Block Chevy computer controlled HEI large cap with coil distributor.
 

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These pump product about 10% more pressure and volume than their stock pump for a SBC.

Dave of Melling felt that that should cover it very well.

Rich
 
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you have three rather commonly available sources for decent reasonably priced oil pumps ,
yes I would remove the pressure relief spring temporarily while brazing the pick-up to the oil pump.
Melling,

milodon
https://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/18732/10002/-1
and
moroso,

I generally prefer moroso, or milodon, but all three options will work,
If I was assembling that engine, Id suggest, you want to buy and use a big chevy,
block standard volume and standard pressure oil pump.
obviously you need to verify pick-up to oil an floor clearances ,
and oil pump drive shaft, to the seated distributor shaft ,
clearances during the installation process.


btw oil pump pick-up assembly's vary in depth and tube diameter, from company to company, and year to year,
and where the pick-up is located inside the oil pan,
this is where owning a TIG welder or OXY/ACETOLENE TORCH and having some fabrication skills come into play, you
can and should if its necessary custom modify the oil pump pick-up to get the desired placement and clearances.
697-18202.jpg
big_block_engine+.jpg


oilpasse1.jpg


ChevyOilingPluga.jpg

read links


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-drive-shafts.123/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ibutors-wont-seat-on-intake.12538/#post-63636


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-pump-drive-shafts.123/#post-19025


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/#post-43110

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/distributor-gear-wear.1701/#post-4160

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...butor-clamp-that-just-won-t-clamp-firmly.871/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-allows-the-distrib-to-turn-even-tighten.873/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-timing-question.1411/#post-3131
 
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Well so far I have not found any standard volume oil pumps other that milling, the other two brands do not seem to make anything not racing....

Or their are out of stock,

So I thing it

Comes down to:

BBC Chevy M77 Oil Pump - Melling
$32.05
80-77 -QualCast
Standard replacement M77 oil pump from Melling for all BBC big block passenger car engines (396 402 427 454),


BBC Chevy M77G Oil Pump - Melling
$33.00
80-77G -QualCast
Standard replacement M77G oil pump from Melling for all BBC big block GM truck engines (366 396 402 427 454 482 502),

"I found this: The "G" in the part number is for a cover gasket, and it probably comes with a slightly stiffer spring due to the (truck series, 60,70, etc.) commercial application. Thanks, Gary in N.Y."

The above was posted in 2005…Note the prices…

True of not??? probably comes with a slightly stiffer spring due to the (truck series, 60,70, etc.) commercial application.

I understand the BBC pump has 12 Teeth pumps, so do they make a little more volume?? I read part of the things you suggest and understand volume IS pressure, and that clearances are critical.

In fact:

OMG Just learned my 383 may have too much clearance on the mains and rods. My memory is that I plastic gauged them and got .004, on all mains and rods. I was sure I checked with the machine shop and was told GOOD. I thought that that was great as all the clearances MATCHED…..

NOW I am told I really need .002....that .004 is TOO LOOSE.

And again a last minute correction. At lease I found out before installing it and blowing it up.

SO I am going to take it apart, take it down to a short block and take it to the machine shop and have THEM fix it. I do not know how long that will take.

I KNOW that I checked with them every step of the way and I KNOW I asked/told Shawn my findings of .004 on ALL the mains and the rods. I was checking with him during assembly over crank case clearance for the crank, and rods....so I am a bit put out that he had the crank turned and did not sell me matching correct bearings....

I can only guess he just was not paying attention when he did not stop me say that needs fixing. I think the virus was distracting him a lot.cIt was during the first year of it that all of this was done.

First I need them to check the piston to deck height and then check both banks if they are square.

I need to know the final piston to deck height.

Then to take it apart and clean all the assembly lube off so it can be checked over.

Then to check and fix: piston to bore clearance, if needed, rod bearings and main bearing clearance and end play, if needed and once corrected reassemble it.

Rich

Feedback please.
 
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a standard BBC oil pump provides about the same volume of oil as a high volume SBC oil pump, but having 12 vs 7 gear teeth at a smoother more consistent pressure and flow rate.
you certainly don't need a high volume BBC oil pump, but it won't hurt anything on an engine that spends 90% of its time operating below 3000 rpm.
yeah get your bearing clearances closer to the suggested 2-2.6 thousands
 
"a standard BBC oil pump provides about the same volume of oil as a high volume SBC oil pump, but having 12 vs 7 gear teeth at a smoother more consistent pressure and flow rate."

GREAT all in one and for around $60.00 and have what I wanted to boot THANKS.

And I will check for a good fit between the pump and a distributor, I take it I want a SBC drive shaft?

"you certainly don't need a high volume BBC oil pump, but it won't hurt anything on an engine that spends 90% of its time operating below 3000 rpm." Yes over kill...

What about a good pickup???

" yeah get your bearing clearances closer to the suggested 2-2.6 thousands"

Yes I know now....I trusted the shop that had the 400 crank machined/ground down for the 350 block to sell me the correct bearings...

And yes I know I needed to check them which I did with plastic gauge, and I THEN checked with the shop with my findings and was TOLD they were good....I though .004 was good for a low RPM street motor.

I have not done more that a Studebaker 289 in 1966, a TR4 in 1973, and OLDS403 in 2001, and this 383 now.

ALL the rest when I needed a engine I either swapped in a good USED factory one from a junk yard OR replaced the whole car.

Rich
 
youll need to read the linked info,
I posted earlier, heres
the specific link and some related info concerning the correct oil pump drive and
how to go about selecting the one with the correct length/ clearances, checking clearance etc.




milpumpdrive.jpg

morpumpdrive.jpg
 
"Suggestions for the pickup??"
oil pump pick-up made by the same company that built the oil pump and that FITS the oil pan your using

keep in mind the oil pump pressure relief spring has ZERO effect on oil pressure other that to limit the peak pressure, it has zero effect on pressure vs rpm until PEAK oil pressure is exceeded, when the pressure is limited by the pumps routing high pressure oil back to the intake side of the oil pump
pressureREGaaa.jpg
 
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OK I gave up guessing and as I cannot find my notes, after all I really thought I was done...so I tore the 383 apart and it is now getting checked for clearances.

For fun I tried checking the piston to deck height and got .004.

The shop will give me their official reading of the piston to deck height.

And for the bearings and piston to cylinder clearance and if there is any problems, and size the bearings so it has the .0026 clearances and then reassemble it.

I figured I did not have the correct tools nor the experience using them and figured it would cost me almost as much to buy the tools to do the job and I would still worry if I did it right.

Once I get the reassembled short block I will re-figure compression rate, static and dymantic and what head gasket to use and get it ready to put into the van.

Onward.

Rich
 
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