SBC oil pump bypass rerouting to pan

You should not lug the engine down hard .
Its not a Diesel engine.
 
4X4 engines are kinda Unique.
Street use they need Torque off idle to 3000-3500 rpms.

We are hotrod race here usually .
 
At some point I'm going to run the sensor data through the ECM so I can capture it, in the short term I'll probably just run it to a gauge to get a general idea of where I am. I've already done the same for trans temps, but logging the temps is going to be better for the long run.

Quite certain oil temps aren't a problem now, present engine survived 15 years under same conditions, but in the future I'll try lean cruise and oil temps are likely to be affected. Don't want the oil temp to get out of control. Plus it would be interesting to see how much effect it really has on the oil
 
Got the thing finally running (lost motivation during the winter with the unheated garage) and indicated oil pressure is 45PSI hot and cold, just a tick over when cold, a tick under when hot running conventional 10W30. This is with the Melling M99 pump with 52PSI spring in a crate Vortec 350. Gauges are original 1980's vintage, which I have not verified to be correct. Just consistent.

Welded a bung into the pan, will be running oil temps as it progresses. Need to put 500 varying RPM/low load miles on it per GM, will probably be awhile before I see any conditions where oil temp might go up.

Decided not to run the external bypass, under-vehicle access is very easy, if I need to address cooling I'll rethink.
 
please keep us in the information loop and let us know what your testing shows,
but keep in mind both engine oil temps and trans fluid temps seldom reach operational temps,
and stabilize , for semi consistent data,in under 12-15 minutes of drive time.
 
Will do.

Already checked the trans temps, being a big cast iron unit (SM465, 80w90) found that it ran very stable temp-wise under "street" conditions, but going up hill where I was really into the throttle, fluid temp climbed a fair amount. Starting from cold temps, after a few miles temp stabilized around 100* on flat ground at highway speeds (a couple of lights, otherwise 35-55MPH) for an hour or so at 70* ambient, but when in second gear climbing logging roads, temps climbed to 150*. The temp didn't appreciably drop once on the surface roads again, traveling the same route that previously saw 100* trans temps, even though it was an hour of driving.

I was surprised to see the manual transmission temps climb like they did, and that's why I think oil temps under the same conditions could be interesting. I'd also like to know what amount of oil the pistons get, because if they don't get much, I don't see the oil temp reflecting much difference if the cooling system is good, even if the pistons are getting hotter.
 
the oil mist bath, being constantly thrown from the rotating crank assembly unto the lower bore walls,and rockers over the valve train,valve springs, rockers,rods and underside of the pistons does A GREAT DEAL of the initial heat absorption and heat transfer,
and prevents the pistons and rings from being damaged,
only as the hot oil falls, and drains back into the lower sump is much of the heat transferred to the coolant in the block.
oil flow and coolant flow are both required to absorb and remove heat build-up from the engine,especially from the rotating assembly , bearings,and valve train components
 
With better oil control, is that a concern? I didn't get to the scraper/windage tray as this motor is technically under warranty, but I wondered about that.

GM ran oil coolers even on the lightest duty trucks (K5's) with small blocks with certain option codes, and I doubt that was simply for show. There are a lot of GM documents I wish were accessible, you know this was tested, unfortunately most of the testing needs to be re-done if we are to know.
 
the factory SBC oil system is reasonably effective and robust,even without adding a windage tray,
I would not be overly concerned with making additional mods, like a baffled 7-8 quart oil pan,
to enhance its design unless you intend to regularly exceed 6000 rpm on a frequent basis.
adding an oil cooler, and a transmission fluid cooler, would surely not hurt a thing if you tow frequently

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/l98-oil-cooler.10549/#post-44915

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thoughts-on-cooling.149/#post-58196

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-60576

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/#post-50447

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-stabilization-temp-vs-time.11043/#post-48999
 
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