shop roll up or garage door insulation, and temp control

[grumpyvette]

if theres a significant temp difference between the inside and outside of your shop, whether your cooling or heating the shop having UN-insulated or open shop garage doors provides a huge temp transfer area
now most of you probably require heat to work in your shops at least part of the year, in my case that's probably for only one-two weeks as IM in Florida, but in any case the garage door is a potential area that allows a great deal of heat transfer, in my case I try to keep the doors shut and several large fans running to duct heat up and out of the shop providing a cooler work environment.
Ive got a 2600sq foot shop with two roof exhaust fans both rated at 2800 cubic feet per minute pulling heat out of the shop attic and (21) 60" industrial shop fans keeping the shop air moving.
on hot days that's usually adequate to make it a livable temp in the shade of the shop without air conditioning if the doors remain closed, on cold days I use a 42000 btw kerosene shop heater that does a surprisingly effective job of removing the chill on the rare cold days,

ABOVE is a typical UN BRACED NON hurricane rated door with an insulation kit

All radiant barriers have at least one reflective (or low emissivity)
surface, usually a sheet or coating of aluminum. Some radiant barriers
have a reflective surface on both sides. Both types work about equally
well, but if a one-sided radiant barrier is used, the reflective
surface must face the open air space. For example, if a one-sided
radiant barrier is laid on top of the insulation with the reflective
side facing down and touching the insulation, the radiant barrier will
lose most of its effectiveness in reducing heating and cooling loads."

The foil radiant barrier requires an air space - it's not supposed to
touch anything. If it is touching the back of the wall covering it
loses some of its effectiveness.

The foil also acts as a vapor barrier, which may or may not be
necessary depending on what type of rigid foam insulation it's on.

http://www.energyefficientsolutions.com ... oorkit.asp

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to ... index.html

http://www.reflectixinc.com/basepage.asp?PageIndex=547

 

[grumpyvette]

when shopping for a garage door you need to look at the application carefully and in an ideal world plan well ahead so that your garage door installation does not detract from your shops usefulness.

you obviously need to start by measuring or planing your garage door size to allow the cars you work on to easily enter the garage, mine are 8ft tall x 16 ft wide, measure your garage door opening carefully and take a few pictures then visit at least three local suppliers and get prices, discuss features types of doors, types of openers, springs, locks , durability, how the door is mounted, how it stores, what over head room it requires, and discuss options, wind load ratings, security features , openers, hurricane brace kits,outside lighting,security, weather seal lip, water resistance , availability of upgraded locks, hurricane braces and stronger rollers and tracks,etc. I personally prefer the manual chain drive pulley style opener because its impossible to have anyone hack a frequency and open your garage. like is a REMOTE possibility with a power garage opener.
if you check youll see theres a wide variation in quality and the wind load rating is a good place to start as its a fair indication of how well the doors constructed.
in general a two layer insulated garage door thats dade county hurricane 160mph rated will be a sturdy door, much sturdier than a single layer steel door.
keep in mind the track, and door interior and exterior bracing design effects the doors strength.
a solidly built garage door with a first rate hurricane re-enforcement brace kit installed with the proper tracks won,t be dirt cheap. on my shop I could have used single layer steel doors that cost $1400 each, the 160 mph rated doors I selected and installed cost $3600 EACH.
one of the reasons I had the rafter height at 16 ft was to allow the shops doors to store above the door along the wall surface so they did not need to transition to horizontal storage, potentially blocking lights and ceiling fans

ABOVE is a rather cheap removable hurricane garage door brace kit, while certainly an improvement over no bracing its not nearly what a properly braced door looks like
garage door track mount bolts MUST anchor at least 3" into solid poured concrete, and having a 2"x6" board door frame anchored to the concrete around the door frame to anchor the door is NOT sufficient!

these doors have MINIMAL BRACES

true hurricane braces are about 2.5: tall and 5" deep and sit on steel stand off brackets so they extend back 6"-7" behind the doors inner surface and mount either on the center of EACH garage door section,and on the top and lower edge of the top and bottom sections that would, not include the vertical bolt in braces used during an actual storm you prepare for. this picture give you some idea but its not the full size brace bar!

TYPICAL MID LEVEL WIND LOAD BRACES ON GARAGE DOOR

TYPICAL NON-BRACED GARAGE DOOR

In the diagram above the new track brace is red, as are the new mounting screws. Take note of how the screws bite into the studs in the wall. The drawing isn't to scale, but you can see how the positioning of the stud and jack studs it will be easy to to find them with the screws.
ON my garage door install the red bolts pictured in the diagram,were mounted thru pressure treated 2"x 6" boards bolted directly to a poured concrete block wall, which had been poured solid and the bolts extended thru the 2"x6" boards a full 4" into the poured concrete, and were spaced every 18" along the door fram with a 3/8" expansion bolt holding the 2"x 6" board , the door tracks not just screwed to the board but into the concrete also with 4" tap-con bolts


READ THESE LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=5035&p=16042&hilit=drainage#p16042

http://www.mysafefloridahome.com/images ... 08indd.pdf

http://www.bobvila.com/articles/383-sto ... rs/pages/1

http://www.broten.com/products/garage-doors.html

http://ryternagaragedoors.blogspot.com/ ... -tips.html

http://www.dannylipford.com/video/how-t ... ge/#tabs-1

http://www.qualitygaragedoorwestpalm.com/

http://suburbangaragedoorservice.com/Track-Framing.htm

http://dpgaragedoors.com/garage-door-in ... tions.html

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/tracks_hardware.html



http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog ... 9473801658

http://www.overheaddoor.com/garage-door ... ducts.aspx

http://martindoor.com/Garage-Doors.aspx

 

[Randy_W]

My shop door is 18' wide and before I insulated it you couldn't heat or cool the place effectively. To make up for the light loss I installed tinted Lexan in one row of panels.

 

[Grumpy]

Ive been in lots of garages and shops where the tracks for the roll up garage door store the door horizontally well below the ceiling height, to me that was always a P.I.T.A.
, it makes sense to take full advantage of that space!
storing the open door allong the wall vertically just makes much more sense as it won,t tend to b;lock ceiling fans or lighting if all or most of the stored doors surface is semi parallel to the wall rather than sticking out into the shop on tracks mounted well below ceiling height.
now most home garages will not have a 12 foot or higher ceiling height, but every foot of door surface that can be stored vertically along the wall above the door opening when the doors rolled up, is surface thats not jutting out into the shop that can potentially interfere, with a car up on a lift, lighting or air flow from ceiling fans

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php

http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/garage-door-high-lift-conversion.php

look at the picture above, mounting the tracks that way allows 2 of the 4 panels to store vertically this allows about 4 feet of door that would otherwise block ceiling lighting too remain free and open

I see far too often guys with garage ceiling heights that might be 10 or 11 feet who install a lift and then find they can,t put a car up on it unless the garage doors shut simply because the garage door tracks stick out from the wall at about a 7 foot height, where a car lifted on the lift would hit it unless the doors closed before the cars raised.

 

[Grumpy]

if you live in any area where outside vs inside temps vary a great deal,
insulating the large surface area that most garage doors represent ,
is a potentially significant way to reduce the heat transfer into or out of your garage.
most garage doors are not designed, with heat transfer loss efficiency rates in mind, most are thinner sheet metal.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/R-Tech-1-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-R-3-85-Insulating-Sheathing-320821/202532854

home depot and other retailers sell sheets of high efficiency heat barrier stiff insulation 1" and 1.5" thick,
you need to measure very carefully and cut to fit but glued with a decent quality contact cement to the inner garage door surface the sheets of heat
barrier insulation can make a noticeable difference in the garage temperature and your power bill if you air condition the shop
if you really care to increase efficiency a layer of reflective 3/16" insulation between the inner door and the stiff heat barrier foam,
panels has been proven to lower heat transfer rates even more effectively
Cool Shield Thermal Bubble Roll - 16" x 125'

Enlarge
Create custom thermal packaging for food, plants and medical shipments.

• Effective moisture and vapor barrier.
• 3/16" metalized bubble cushions and protects.
• Line pallets or boxes inside or out.
• FDA compliant.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...VQrjACh3z-giNEAQYAyABEgKow_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds