sleeving a block

[grumpyvette]

sooner or later youll be offered a killer deal on a block thats just too good to pass up, but on real close inspection youll find it needs a cylinder bore job or in some cases a cylinder replaced due to a crack ..that is, of course a (TOTAL SURPRISE TO THE SELLER) NOW IN MOST CASES YOU CAN,T FIND THIS STUFF OUT WITHOUT HAVING A MACHINE SHOP CHECK OUT THAT (bargain)
AND BY THEN THE SELLER WILL INSIST ITS YOUR PROBLEM, (if you can find him)

NOW SLEEVING A BLOCK CAN GET fairly EXPENSIVE, BUT IF ITS JUST A SINGLE CYLINDER , and if the repair work is done correctly ,
ITS RARELY A PROBLEM IF YOU BOUGHT THE BLOCK CHEAP ENOUGH
the truth is that a sleeve is just as strong or stronger,
than the original cylinder if its been installed correctly.
but you generally don,t want to install two sleeves installed on the same bank on the same block side by side does provide a less rigid block,as a single sleeve is usually just fine but two side by side, well, Id look for a new block
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... index.html

http://www.larryspower.com/engine/Sleev ... #Packaging

http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech ... ld-blocks/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-splayed-caps.7267/#post-68837

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-sleeve-an-engine-block/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1804-re-sleeve-save-matching-numbers-block/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/#post-7077

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thrust-bearing-wear.619/#post-10925

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-496bbc.5123/#post-15557

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-about-your-potential-dream-bbc-combos.14607/



I was recently asked what block casting numbers a guy should look for,
to insure that the block he was going to base his engine on was more likely to have the thicker casting,
and cylinder wall depth that would safely allow a .030-or even a .060 over bore?
well youll ideally want a pre-1970 block for either the SBC or BBC engine.
keep in mind that block is now almost 50 years old you have no idea how in was stored or treated previously,
or how much internal coolant passage rust damage is hidden in the block's internal passages after all that time.
pre-1970 block casting technology tended to use MARGINALLY thicker casting's,
that the post 170 blocks with their slightly improved casting tech.
but core shift was more likely so its a bit off in its bore wall consistency,
a no-win situation, you could have thicker castings, that were slightly off-set ,
making it just as weak as a later thinner casting.
the truth here is if your intention is to bore any stock block over .030,
you should first sonic test the bore wall thickness and consistency.
that being stated, a DART or similar aftermarket WORLD PRODUCTS block,
will have a significantly thicker casting with a stronger alloy.
if your going to throw $70-$1000 plus in precision machine work into a performance engine,
your much safer financially in the long term doing that on the much stronger aftermarket or bowtie block.
clean any block you buy and look for obvious cracks and if you have doubts get the machine shop to mag or dye test the block or heads
lifter bores
and lifter gallery
,piston bore walls,
block main cap web support areas
heads between the valves in valve seat area
look for stripped head and manifold and oil pan mounting bolt threads,
in threaded holes and cracks in block radiating from the holes

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/casting-numbers-vin.93/#post-29983

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-choice.10472/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/blueprinting-a-block.49/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-cylinder-wall-thickness.7646/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-dart-shp-4-0-or-4-125.3219/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-choice.10472/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/darts-new-sbc-block.47/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/why-build-a-bbc-vs-a-sbc.1009/

TWO BOLT MAIN CAP BLOCK

4 bolt SBC block

read these threads


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-22976

sleeving the bore,some times its the only way to save a block, but in many cases the O.E.M. blocks are so thinly cast that youll have bore distortion and less than ideal bore wall thickness and less than ideal ring sealing, making swapping to an aftermarket DART or BOWTIE block a better long term option

 

[Grumpy]

..... I purchased a used block off a craigs list local add, to repair my 496 chevy that has a.25" stroker crank assembly,
that has a crack in the number 7 cylinder wall, my blocks already bored .060 over sized.
I brought it to the machine shop and had it cleaned and sonic tested and its got thicker bore walls, and a standard .4251 bore size, in every cylinder but the machine shop pointed out that the number 3 cylinder was previously sleeved, at some point.
now Ill have to put a good deal of cash into this block to have it bored and honed to fit my .060 over bore size rotating assembly , my question?, is it really smart to use a block thats already been sleeved to build the replacement 496 BBC or should I be looking for a second replacement block?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oicN6j8hFEo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBcYKKDybqk
you'll occasionally find you have a block with a cracked bore wall,
the block can usually be repaired , or sleeved and function just fine,
if that cylinder bore is not adjacent to a second damaged bore ,
(usually cast iron blocks)
if two adjacent bores are damaged its usually better to find a different block,
but some blocks can accept sleeves in multiple adjacent locations just fine,
(talk with your machine shop machinist) blocks designed for sleeves like some aluminum blocks require different procedure's
this bore sleeve replacement is done by over boring the bore and inserting a replacement sleeve or new high strength steel bore wall insert, only the better machine shops can generally do this well, so don,t try this at a small local shop that may not have the required equipment and experience.
be sure too verify and have in writing the cost of the bore sleeve repair work and materials required,
before you consider this as a used block may be close, or in some cases lower in cost

Thats a question the local machinist should be able to answer better after taking a series of somic tests on the bore walls, and of course depends a good deal on how hard you intend to beat on the completed engine!
a single sleeve is not normally going to cause any problems but if your intention is to push power much past about 550 hp you might consider an after market DART block as the block rigidity and bore walls and even the alloy the blocks cast from are all stronger.
Ive run several engines with sleeved bores without issues, but If it was my intention to build a 600 hp plus engine ID think seriously about upgrading to a DART block!
and heres why
youll easily have over $1000-t0-$1800 in the block cost and into machine shop bills before the blocks bored, honed, align honed decked and all the sonic testing and youll still have a O.E.M. block thats considerably less rigid and a block with thinner bore walls and main bearing webs than the aftermarket block. , and if it ever cracks your going to look back at the minor cost savings you might get now as a bad decision. especially since at this point you might want to and can cut your potential loss and sell that block and buy a 4.5" bore dart block,
a larger bore block, that once matched to larger pistons and rings (and of course rebalanced) you could have a 540 displacement engine.
yes every thing in this hobby costs more money and takes more time than you want it too, theres no question there!, but you do have options and building a larger displacement engine with a much stronger block doesn,t seem to be the worst option here simply because your already talking about pitching a big chunk of cash into this project at this point ,no mater what you decide !
yes you'll most likely have an additional $1k-$2K into building a dart block 496-540, but you'll also have an engine that's stronger structurally and one with a bit more resale value.
ID suggest you grab a calculator , pen and pad and sit down with the machine shop and look over your options


blueprint engine blocks
https://www.jegs.com/v/Blueprint-En...brand&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1

DART BLOCKS
http://dartheads.com/product-category/big-block-chevy/blocks/

world products blocks
https://www.billmitchellproducts.com/engine-blocks/

G.M. performance
https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/category/LS196.html


http://www.jegs.com/p/Dart/Dart-Big-Block-Chevy-Big-M-Engine-Block/755749/10002/-1

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[Grumpy]

Dart Big Block Chevy Big M Engine Block


Features:

• Siamesed Extra-Thick Cylinder Walls: Resists cracking and improves ring seal (minimum .300'' thick with 4.625'' bore).

• Scalloped Outer Water Jacket Walls: Improves coolant flow around the cylinder barrels to equalize temperatures.

• Four-Bolt Main Bearing Caps: In steel or ductile iron have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.

• Crankshaft Tunnel: Has clearance for a 4.500'' stroke crank with steel rods without grinding.

• True ''Priority Main'' Oil System: Lubricates the main bearings before the lifters.

• Oil Filter Pad: Drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.

• Rear Four-Bolt Cap: Uses standard oil pump and two-piece seal - no adapter required!

• Lifter Valley Head Stud Bosses: Prevent blown head gaskets between head bolts.

• External Block Machining: Reduces weight without sacrificing strength.

• Simplified Install : Fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts and side & front motor mounts simplfy installation on any chassis.

• Dual Oil Pan Bolt Patterns: Fits standard and notched oil pans.

• Bellhousing Flange and Rear Main Bearing: Reinforced with ribs to resist cracks.

• Note: Does not include cam bearings, freeze plugs, or dowels