Starting an engine that's been setting

ranman

Active Member
I parked my truck in the side yard and it hasn't been started in about 6 years. I'm looking for things I need to do to do it "properly"...whatever that means. It's a got a 350.
I'm thinking new oil and filter, new plugs, squirting oil in each cylinder. Priming the oil system is what I thinking once the new oil gets put in. I have a Tavia primer. I read about using an air ratchet to turn the priming tool........... is the impact from the air ratchet a good idea, or can it do damage to the pump or break the oil pump drive shaft?
I'd of course install a new fuel filter and maybe taking the top off the carb (Q-Jet) to make sure it's clean inside with no flaky residue.
Gas tank was almost totally out of fuel when it was parked. (6 years ago) I'm thinking of adding 5 gallons of gas then putting a rubber fuel line into a clean bucked while turning the engine over so I can observe what gets pumped out......... clean or globs and crud. That will tell me if I need to go deeper on the tank subject..and I don't want to. I'd rather add a larger filter.
Coolant still looks nice greeninsh yellow, so I'm not gonna mess with that now.
New oil/filter
Prime engine
New plugs
(Cap and rotor are in excellent condition)
Clean carb and replace filter
What else?
Belts can hoses can be replaced later.
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
Your Check List looks Good.

The 1st thing you need to verify is if the engine cylinder walls are rusted up or not.
There is always 1 exhaust valve open on a V8 engine that sits.
Sometimes 2 exhaust valves depending upon where the crankshaft position is.
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
If its siezed up the engine needs to be broken free.
On Small Block Chevy you do not want to turn the engine over by the balancer bolt.
Strip the crank threads or snap the bolt.
Safest by trying to turn the flywheel.
Get the inspection cover off.
Use a pry bar or flywheel turning tool.
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
Buy 2 quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil
Remove all the spark plugs.
Fill the cylinders with MMO .
Ok to mix with Acetone as Grumpy does.
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
MMO Marvel Mystery oil works many times.

Last spring on my 1959 Pontiac 389 I picked up it did not work MMO.
I found Chemical concoctions that worked.
But my engine sat since 1983.
Got it free and 175 psi cranking compression again on all 8 cylinders.
 

Indycars

Administrator
Staff member
squirting oil in each cylinder.
Turning the engine over 4-5 revolutions by hand right after add the oil will distribute the oil. Will also
make sure that rings not are rusted and stuck, before you put starter torque to the motor. Don't want
to break the top of piston off when the piston tries to go down, but ring wants to stay.

I read about using an air ratchet to turn the priming tool........... is the impact from the air ratchet a good idea, or can it do damage to the pump or break the oil pump drive shaft?

An air ratchet would be fine, but if you are talking about an impact gun, then I would steer clear of that.
A corded 1/2 inch drill motor should work if you have one, that's what I used.

Gas tank was almost totally out of fuel when it was parked. (6 years ago) I'm thinking of adding 5 gallons of gas then putting a rubber fuel line into a clean bucked while turning the engine over so I can observe what gets pumped out......... clean or globs and crud. That will tell me if I need to go deeper on the tank subject..and I don't want to. I'd rather add a larger filter.
Should not matter what you see from the output of the rubber line. Driving and sloshing around is going
to clean/mix all the crude into the gasoline. Put the addition large fuel filter on before the first start, then
change it after you have driven it a couple hundred miles. It sounds like it might be easy, since you already
mentioned it.
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
Often many times old Gas Tanks are full of Rust.
Can look down with a Boroscope.

Starting the engine with a Marine Gas Tank be test.
Most just use a 5 gallon Gas can & stick the fuel line into it to feed the fuel pump.
 

ranman

Active Member
Boy are you guys bored. :facepalm: Friday, Spring Break and you aren't at the beach with binoculars? :laugh:
Thanks for all the suggestions, especially the sloshing. Maybe I'll look for a big filter.
Spark plugs have always been in and air cleaner on, plus the hood closed and full length exhaust, so I'm not real worried about it being seized up. Marvel ought to do the loosening up and initial protection, but I'll prepare for whatever. I can blow it in there with an air hose so it coats everything. ...maybe let it set overnight after doing that.
No boroscope, so the filter will have to do whatever it can do. ........or I can suck the rust out with my shop vac. :rofl:
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
Not My Video.
I never talk in my You Tube Vids.

Like Many Old engines out there shown.
They only have to sit year outside not Ran.
Condensation Moisture -water vapor finds its way inside of an engine.
Right through the air filter.
Right through the exhaust tailpipes into the cylinder with the open exhaust valve(s).
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
s-l300.jpg



71B0yT-59bL._SL1500_.jpg
 

ranman

Active Member
If the weather is decent, maybe I'll remove the plugs tomorrow and see if it turns over by hand. I live in Oregon, 5 miles from the ocean. I'm not worried because it never rains here. :las:
FYI, I was joking bout the shop vac. In high school, my brother was going to siphon some gas from his truck into a can. Not liking the taste of gas in his mouth (who does), he decided to momentarily touch the rubber siphon hose into the vacuum hose to get the siphon started. Not long enough to get the gas flowing, you know, just over the hump so it would be ready to flow.
.......long story short, .......that little round metal Eureka vac took off like a fireball and rolled 30 feet down the driveway. It still worked, but smelled of gas fumes for years .:rofl:
 

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum
If the weather is decent, maybe I'll remove the plugs tomorrow and see if it turns over by hand. I live in Oregon, 5 miles from the ocean. I'm not worried because it never rains here. :las:
FYI, I was joking bout the shop vac. In high school, my brother was going to siphon some gas from his truck into a can. Not liking the taste of gas in his mouth (who does), he decided to momentarily touch the rubber siphon hose into the vacuum hose to get the siphon started. Not long enough to get the gas flowing, you know, just over the hump so it would be ready to flow.
.......long story short, .......that little round metal Eureka vac took off like a fireball and rolled 30 feet down the driveway. It still worked, but smelled of gas fumes for years .:rofl:

Check it out.

MMO works pretty good unless the aluminum pistons are corroded up.
Then the pistons are seized solid of fused to the cast iron Block.
I have tricks for that problem.
 

ranman

Active Member
If I need tricks, I know where to come. Thanks.
This doesn't involve a battery charger, a 50 gallon drum and washing soda does it? :sweating:
 

ranman

Active Member
I've been out of town since I last made a comment, but now, of all issues I finally have some work to do to make a buck. Now, it's gonna start raining for a couple of days. I'll pass on my results when I get more time to work on my good old friend of 36 years.
 
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Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member





https://www.melling.com/videos/how-to-prime-engines-and-oil-pumps-by-melling/ melling sells a pump pressure tank for about $270

HF sells a pressure tank you could very easily use after minor conversion for $100

filling, and pressurizing the internal engine oil passages, and changing oil and filter with fresh oil is a good idea,
as is pulling the spark plugs and squirting a few tea spoons of MARVEL MSTERY OIL into each cylinder before ,
you initially spin the engine a few times and only then replace the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition wires before you start the enine the first time

but there are much easier and cheaper routes to prime and fill the engines oil passages, watch this video

tractor supply sells a cheap liquid pump you could use, to prime an engine


home depot sells a tank that could be converted with a few fittings and tubing to prime an engine
especially if you have an air compressor


 
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