Starting Issue after fresh rebuild

It's fixed, It's fixed, It's fixed! When I put everything together all the parts store had was ROI gaskets. When I disassembled the plenum and runners it was easy to see the paper on the gaskets was flaking off in spots already exposing the metal and VERY large vacuum leaks. I replaced every with new Fel-Pro gaskets.

I started her up and she fired instantly, went up to 1,000 RPM and then dropped back down to an idle of about 700 - 750 RPM. Everything sounded very smooth, headers did not turn red, and oil pressure was about 30 PSI at idle. However, I have 10W30 with Lucas break-in lube and 1 QT of Marvel Mystery Oil in the car, so I expect the oil pressure will drop a little after break-in when I change to 10W30 and Marvel Mystery Oil.

Not it's time to break her in!

I cannot express how much I appreciate your help! I could not have fixed the issues without you. Thanks so much again!

Now its time to search for a break in procedure!
 
Here is the link to the engine running tonight. You may need to copy and paste into your browser. See what you think? I have just ran it in the garage for a whole total of about 10 - 15 minutes. I will probably do the (12) 30-60 MPH acceleration and deceleration runs to break in the engine and then change the oil.

http://www.dropshots.com/wildjyoung
 
It sounds decent,why not break it in like you said but keep the rpms up to at least 2000rpm-4000rpm as it helps lubricate the internals better
 
Will do! Thanks for the tip.

I am going to do a search but what are your thoughts on products like Lucas that advertise that they help stick to internals to eliminate dry start ups. It seems contradictory to the need for oil to be thin enough to allow sufficient volume through to pull heat from the bearings/valves/springs.
 
personally ID avoid those additive products like the PLAGUE and just use a top quality oil, and change your oil and oil filter during and after the break-in process. verifying your clearances and valve train geometry and use of good oil is better than additives

SHELL,MOBILE-1, TEXACO AM-SOIL,ROYAL PURPLE, VALVOLINE, all make decent products
ADD SOME E.O.S. and moly assembly lube and a qt of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL won,t hurt

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1057&p=2009&hilit=lucas#p2009

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=282

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181
 
always glad to help where I can,
btw see if you can get your buddies to register and post as the more people asking and ANSWERING questions we have the better the site will become and the more REFERENCE DATA in the posts will be readily available for you to access
 
Will do! I will send links to all of my "car" buddies.

Well, I started the break in process yesterday but ran into a few issues. First, the car has so much torque is breaks the tires loose by barely hitting the gas! Plus, my transmission (700R4) is not grabbing 2 and 3rd gear so I did not have a full breadth of gears to use. I kept teh RPM's around 2,000 - 4,000 with constant cycling up and down and just drove it kind of hard. It just seems like you should be easy on it but I guess not. I was not able to achieve the 30 - 60 MPH passes but did what I could. Could this impact the engine negatively at all?

Lastly, I was curious about cathodic corrosion. I have an aluminum intake and stainless steel bolts. Should I be concerned about corrosion to the aluminum?

Thanks!
Josh
 
wildjyoung said:
Will do! I will send links to all of my "car" buddies.

Well, I started the break in process yesterday but ran into a few issues. First, the car has so much torque is breaks the tires loose by barely hitting the gas! Plus, my transmission (700R4) is not grabbing 2 and 3rd gear

read

viewtopic.php?f=45&t=857&p=1332&hilit=+700r4#p1332
and
viewtopic.php?f=64&t=1216&p=2603&hilit=+700r4#p2603



so I did not have a full breadth of gears to use. I kept teh RPM's around 2,000 - 4,000 with constant cycling up and down and just drove it kind of hard. It just seems like you should be easy on it but I guess not. I was not able to achieve the 30 - 60 MPH passes but did what I could. Could this impact the engine negatively at all?

ITS VERY UNLIKELY AS LONG AS YOUR OIL AND COOLANT LEVELS ARE CORRECT, and YOUR IGNITION TIMINGS EVEN CLOSE TO CORRECT

Lastly, I was curious about cathodic corrosion. I have an aluminum intake and stainless steel bolts. Should I be concerned about corrosion to the aluminum?

Thanks!
Josh
Click to expand...

read this on corrosion issues

viewtopic.php?f=57&t=74&p=4123&hilit=anode#p4123
 
Thanks again!

I drove the car again last night and it starts easy and runs strong. I tried to do some more "breaking in" and the car did great. However, I was slightly concerned that with a brand new engine the hot idle (600 RPM) oil pressure was only about 15 PSI. Everything I have read from searching your site said that this is perfectly normal and you only need 10 PSI for every 1,00 RPM's.

So, just for verification that my clearances are correct, 15 PSI at hot idle is okay? I had some sloshing from the break in process, so perhaps there was air in the oil.

I am running 3 quarts of Mobil (Dino Oil) 10W30, 1/2 quart of Lucas "break in" oil with ZDDP, and 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil.

By the way, I am meeting with some friends of mine tomorrow and am going to have them join your great site!
 
your oil pressures fine!,
if your concerned , you can up the gauge reading thru simply increasing the oil viscosity , and that will result in a slightly higher gauge pressure reading and if you want it a bit higher, than it is currently, use mostly synthetic 10w 40 oil and quart of marvel mystery oil
but I would not be concerned EITHER WAY, if you are, concerned, the use of mostly synthetic 10w 40 oil and quart of marvel mystery oil will provide a few extra lbs on the gauge and certainly still lubricate the components just as well.
marvel.jpg

your main concern should not be the gauge pressure reading, alone, but thats a way to in some cases keep an eye on,the level of oil and how well its controlled, cooled and pumped under pressure to the moving parts where its surface film cools and keeps the bearings riding on a pressurized film of oil.
use of a higher capacity baffled oil pan, some block prep work to increase drain back, and a windage screen that helps speed oil flow into the sump plays,a big part in how efficient your lube system is, as does having the clearances set per the bearing manufacturers and engine designers specs.
BTW the oil filter you used will tend to effect the gauge reading

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=615&hilit=filter

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=150

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=117&p=147#p147

Id point out up front that oil pressure on the gauge is the result of the resistance the engines clearances cause to oil flow rates,and the viscosity and temperature of the oil.
if your having any problem, maintaining oil pressure you can either increase the flow rate , of viscosity of the oil used or decrease the engines clearances, increasing the oil flow or viscosity is treating a symptom, decreasing the clearances is treating the problem,both approaches will work if done correctly withing reasonable limits and both approaches have points in their favor, and potential problems, IF THE CORRECT PARTS ARE USED, but controlling the oil flow is key to success.
 
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