storing a car with fuel in the lines/tank

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
on a normal muscle car stored over the winter, unused ,adding BOTH a 8 OZ can of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL and a 8 OZ can STA-BIL fuel STABILIZER and filling the tank so moisture can not accumulate will usually prevent problems for OVER a YEAR or MORE, simply add both products , to the fuel tank and fill the tank with fresh fuel then drive the car for 15-30 minutes so your sure the fuel in the fuel system lines and carb or injectors are treated,and the cars engine got fully up to temperature before storing the car in a reasonably dry environment
Its a good idea to change the oil and filter also and remove the battery when storing a car or any other equipment like generators with fuel in them

It took me awhile but I learned you need to put a couple cap fulls of the dark blue MARINE STA-BIL in the car generator or any other engine in storage, gas tank , or several ounces in a cars gas tank,before you store it, or in several weeks time the alcohol makes the engine hard or impossible to start.
be very sure,
as a general rule with any new automotive toy,
(1) you check the oil, trans fluid or coolant and brake fluid levels
,(2) the tire pressure is correct in all 4 tires,
(3) verify the fan belts are in decent shape,
(4) verify that you have the ownership documentation, the required licences
and you test the brake function, before driving.
(5) start it up and let it idle for 10 minutes and check the oil pressure
and coolant temps.
(6) try shifting it into all gears.
(7) check the signal blinkers and head lights

READ THRU THIS THREAD AND LINKS ALSO
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=7770&p=26552#p26552
stabil.jpg

STA-BIL.jpg

the pink stuff got much less rust preventative but it works if your using the engine regularly
marvel.jpg

http://www.goldeagle.com/products/10_oz ... llons.aspx

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=3559&p=9504&hilit=storing#p9504

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=614&p=5180&hilit=+storing#p5180

I know what you're thinking. This stuff was stored in the ground, admittedly in unrefined form, for millions of years without losing its potency, but once topside it's got the shelf life of a tomato? Doubtless the risk of gas going stale is often exaggerated. Still, no getting around one basic truth: in principle gas can go bad.

The shelf life of gasoline depends on the type of gas and the storage conditions and can range from a couple months to a couple years. One wild card is that gas you buy at the pump may already have been in storage for anywhere from days to months.

What makes gas go stale? Usually the first thing that happens is the lighter chemicals in it evaporate, leaving behind a heavier, less peppy product. Gasoline is an ideal motor vehicle fuel partly because it vaporizes readily to form a combustible mix with air. If it sits unused, however, its more volatile components waft away, leading to poorer engine performance. It's hard to tell how much punch your gas has lost without scientific testing, but don't worry though your car might start a little harder, it'll still run (assuming it ran before), and there's little risk in burning the fuel if this is all that's gone wrong.

The second cause of bad gas is oxidation some of the hydrocarbons in the fuel react with oxygen to produce new compounds, almost all of them worse than what you started with. When oxidation becomes a problem, you'll know it without lab tests the gasoline gives off a sour odor. If you pour some into a glass container, you'll see it's turned dark, and you might find small, solid particles of gum. Using oxidized gasoline is a bad idea, since the gum can clog your fuel filter, create deposits in your fuel system (especially the injectors), and generally hurt performance.

Finally there's the problem of contamination. Water, which can cause gas-line freezing and other problems, is the main culprit it usually gets into stored gas via condensation as temperatures fluctuate. If the gas is relatively fresh, a "fuel dryer" additive (basically isopropyl alcohol) can help by combining with the water to make a burnable mix that can be run through the system. Another potential problem caused by water is bacteria, although that's not nearly as common. Gas contaminated with dirt or rust is a no go, as the crud will foul your engine.

The push for reformulated gasoline using ethanol (such as E10, aka gasohol) has heightened concerns about gasoline stability. On its Web site Chevron claims "federal and California reformulated gasolines will survive storage as well or better than conventional gasoline," and I can't find any good test data to dispute that. The fact remains that ethanol is hydrophilic, meaning it tends to draw moisture out of the air, so theoretically gasohol should become contaminated more easily than pure gasoline.

The shelf life of gasohol is difficult to determine proponents claim it's similar to that of pure gasoline but present no hard data. Anecdotally speaking, boat owners and survivalists people who often deal with stored gasoline report a much shorter shelf life for gasoline-ethanol blends and advise against storing them long-term.

How to keep your fuel April fresh? First, store it only in clean containers with tight caps. Whether the containers are metal or plastic doesn't matter much, although steel can eventually rust. Fiberglass containers should be avoided unless they're rated safe for alcohol-containing fuels. Keep the container nearly full to reduce exposure to air, but not completely full, so the gasoline can expand or contract as the temperature changes. That said, try to minimize those temperature swings store gasoline in a cool place to reduce evaporation and oxidation. Consider a gas stabilizer for fuel you plan to keep awhile, but remember stabilizers are meant to prevent gasoline from going bad; they won't restore bad gas to its former health.

There's no easy way to get rid of bad gasoline, but don't be a pig and dump it down the drain. If you really can't use it, contact your city or county to ask where you can dispose of it legally. Some people recommend using it in a lawn mower, but you risk gumming up the mower's works instead. What's left, tiki torches? Better to time your gas consumption and purchases so you don't need to store any gas prices being what they are, no sense tying up cash in something that may just go to waste.

Cecil Adams
 
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I got a private, email message that was almost a short novel, but Ill paraphrase it's intent, below
"THE GUYS IDEA OF AS SHORT STORY AND MINE VARIES A BIT:D"
The reason I bring this up is that , a bit of preventive maintenance, goes a long way toward reducing problems ,especially with todays 10% ethanol laced fuels that absorb moisture.
and a great many of us have cars in various stages of being rebuilt,
"I know thats been the case with almost 1/2 the guys I know and surely it applies too me personally, so it hit home mentally"
or in storage, that we figured we might be driving again,much sooner,than what we have accomplished.
that have for various reasons have been sitting un-used,
for several years more than we originally intended.
"I fully understand how things get delayed due too financial restrictions,
I've had various projects that I'm still not done with over 17 years now"

https://petroclear.com/resources/dont-be-phased.php
grumpy, I just wanted to tell you a short story about my 1969 4 speed 427 big block, corvette.
About 15 years ago I bought the car in less than pristine condition, the interior was trashed,it ran but it was hardly road worthy,
and over that time its spent the vast majority of the time up on jack stands under the frame.
during that time while I located interior, rugs, door panels dash, arm rests gauges , upholstery and seats etc.
I never much thought about the fuel system.
well Id thought about starting the engine but of course the battery was long dead, and removed long ago.
about 3 years ago I decided to get off my ass and I replaced the fuel tank , fuel filter, spark plugs, and fuel pump, and I intended to replace the battery with the intention of starting the cars engine.
but life happened , money was tight, and I just never got to starting the engine or replacing the battery, but I had filled the fuel tank and added 1/2 a bottle of that fuel preservative
stabil.jpg

well last night I purchased a battery and installed it and, changed the oil and oil filter, in the engine that had too be 15 years old ,
(which was surprisingly at least in appearance fairly good looking )
probably because I don't remember driving the car more than a few feet,
since I bought it and put it up on jack stands, well, I figured I would try starting the engine,
I was concerned because the engine had not been started in at least 15 years and I knew the fuel was at least 3 years old...
to my amazement the car started and runs smoothly so I'm too say the least rather impressed with that fuel preservative! And I'm very glad you suggested.
I USE SOME AS I FULLY EXPECTED THE HOLLEY CARB AND MAYBE THE REST OF THE FUEL SYSTEM TO BE JUNK AFTER SITTING UN-USED

any time you encounter problems like the oil filter gasket blowing out on an engine that has sat un-started for more than a few months an oil and oil filter change, and taking the time to drain the oil through a fine filter to visually check for water and contaminants in the oil drained is a very good idea,
engines that site un fired up collect condensation, condensation results in internal rust and that can damage or seize an engine if left very long
almost any auto paint store and most hardware stores sell these disposable throw away paint strainer filters , that cost about 20-35 cents each, or a bit less in bulk packs, honestly I don,t see why most guys don,t invest the dollar it takes for a magnet and a couple filters, blowing the gasket as you found out indicates the pressure bypass is not functioning properly so the oil pump needs to be disassembled and repaired or replaced


If theres any doubt as too the fuel tanks internal condition in a car that sat for years, drain the tank contents through a paint filter , youll get some idea of its internal condition, then if its removed, from the car,
I generally drop 5-6 feet or 3/8" chain into the tank ,
and manually shake and tumble the chain around ,\
along with a gallon of diesel fuel
and repeat the drain through a filter,
the short section of chain sliding around inside the fuel tank,
and sloshing gallon of diesel fuel, is sure to dislodge and corrosion.
easy to see as the diesel is drained through the filter
paintfilter.jpg

paintfilter1.jpg

paintfilter2a.jpg

5-6 feet of 3/8" chain is heavy enough to knock loose internal corrosion,
but small enough that a short section of cord with a magnet makes it easy to retrieve
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RC48

ringmagss.png
 
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