Taking A Chance For Quadrajet Help

[chromebumpers]

I can’t figure out where the linkage rod from the divorced choke fits into the choke assembly. This is for a full size 1970 Pontiac 400 to 455 with a 1970 QuadraJet #7040262.

I searched the internet and I still can’t figure it out from the only directions - a blown apart view of the QJ parts. None show the divorced choke as part of the carburetor. Early QuadraJets are not the same, someone with a 67 389 and QJ sent me his photos and that yr and equipment is not the same.

My second problem - how can the accelerator rod be extended? A Quadrajet’s throttle linkage on a factory intake sits forward at least 3” compared to the OE 2 barrel set up. Any creative ideas?

I’m really going to push this post with a 3rd question.
At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot - is there any such thing as an adapter for the air cleaner? My chrome Chevy 1970 and LT-1 style air cleaner doesn’t fit on the Pontiac QJ.

Rich

 

[Grumpy]

a few detailed and clear pictures of the issues you face would be immensely helpful here!
and the issue of added length to the throttle linkage depends,
a great deal on what the current throttle linkage design is currently,
and air cleaner clearance issues...
thus the pictures would be very helpful indeed

 

[chromebumpers]

Ok, pictures are coming soon.

 

[chromebumpers]

Ok, let’s eliminate the air cleaner problem. What I need is either a dual snorkel air cleaner for a Pontiac in any condition or an after market unit.

At first glance you would think the choke rod connects to the linkage on the left with the 3 holes, but when I do connect it there it just doesn’t work right and any photos I do see on the internet don’t show a connection there. It seems that the rod goes up behind the center of the choke assembly.

Big question - I thought the primary top plates closed when you flip the throttle lever? My Quadrajet doesn’t close any and even when I move the rod down on the divorced choke the primaries don’t close to choke the carb.

Now onto the throttle linkage rod. Notice my handy work on my fabricated throttle linkage. The rod is not connected, it’s a few inches short and it’s at the end of the threads on the rod. I could manipulate the throttle linkage clockwise but I don’t believe I’ll get a smooth action on the throttle motion, not to mention the spring could falter on the pull back motion.
Does anyone (store or internet) sell a longer threaded rod? Any ideas that I haven’t thought of?

PS, the last photo is a photo from the internet that is pretty close to what I have.

 

[Grumpy]

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/q-jet-info.1144/#post-51073

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/looking-for-q-jet-index.7763/#post-37228

the links and related pictures may help as I look for more info

 

[chromebumpers]

I got the rebuilding down, no problems there. There are plenty of throttle rods sold at many speed shops, but they have to be modified so much I might as well start from scratch and bypass purchasing a piece of rod for $50.

The only remains real problem is the choke. If I can’t get this right the car is going to be a real pin in the ass until it warms up.

 

[Grumpy]

1/4/ 20 thread ,sleeve turnbuckles and a bit of welding skill,
can be used with a bit of fabrication skill to make an adjustable length throttle linkage rod that adjusts in length.

https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/08/ThrottleLinkage/index.php

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/...Fw6KJCEW__ALuS3wa8XeVqg_fBj1tOBBoCSU4QAvD_BwE

https://www.macsautoparts.com/edelb...ppS29ADS_D5jVORXGL5D5zc6MnYq_5ehoCSEUQAvD_BwE

https://www.hedman.com/fuel-system-carburetor-brackets-and-linkage

obviously a bit of fabrication skill, some accurate measuring, AND and a MIG or TIG welder can go a LONG WAY towards making a custom throttle linkage

 

[chromebumpers]

I sold my welding equipment to some guy years ago, now who was that?

 

[chromebumpers]

Thanks Grumpy. That link you found to MACs has a rod and connecting ends that would work perfectly for me. I called them and they are willing to break the set to sell me what I need. They have my credit card but I asked them to hold the order for Friday afternoon just to see if my efforts to find factory parts comes to fruition.
On top of fabricating a longer accelerator rod I have to change the spring position with another bracket. I’d rather have a factory setup over my rigging. This is a time I really need Brian!

 

[Unforgiven]

This is a time I really need Brian!

You have his number.....call him. He still reads the forum, he just can't post.

 

[B&R Racing]

There should be a 066 Pontiac cam in your 400.
Was the 2-bbl cam specs real close to the 067 Pontiac cam used in most base GTO 400 & All 455 except SD 455 AND 455 HO .
455 HO also made in 1970, 068 Camshaft.

 

[B&R Racing]

My 7040262 Q-jet uses a single hole to hookup the choke rod.
See the problem confused why

 

[B&R Racing]

Choke is best set at 32 - 40 F here in Illinois.
Cold morning frost day.

 

[B&R Racing]

It will fire up drive away without the choke hooked up.
Its Summer yet you see same temps almost in Pennsylvania like Central Illinois here.
Cant give any advice what Rod hole to try till its colder out.
Finicky device to set but once done it's super accurate the Q-jet choke.

 

[B&R Racing]

15-30 seconds on gas pedal get some heat into the engine, combustion chambers warmed up.
About 120F water temps

 

[B&R Racing]

Accelerator rod needto be lengthened Richard.
It's a safety item.
Pontiac 400 makes 430-460 Ft/lbs torque stock .
Engine rocks to passenger side.
No slack Geometry wrong she goes WOT and unable to get rpms down at all.

I can modify it. Tig weld a 3 inch section in. Blend smooth near perfect.
You have to Re Cadium plate it

Actually let Eddie Tig.
He is Amazing now one off Race car Fabrication.

 

[B&R Racing]

That way its OEM Stock appearance important to you.
I still like Factory oem looks also

 

[chromebumpers]

Ok, Would you believe way out in the middle of woods in horse and cow pastures we have a speed shop 5 minutes from my door?
Although they didn’t have exactly what I needed the owner stopped what he was doing and went to his storage trailers and pulled out a beat looking QJet. I wanted to buy it just for the throttle lever alone but he wouldn’t part with it for any price. He did however find a base plate with the lever I need and a few pull back throttle springs. I wanted to pay but he wouldn’t take my money. Next was a trip down the road to the hardware store.

I found a 24” long, 1/4” - 20 tpi rod and a threaded coupler (see photo). Now it just a matter of mounting the lever from the old base and fasten it to my nice QJet. I have to work around the plug wires and the booster hose - as of this moment it’s rubbing the rear throttle assembly. It’s always something, never anything straight forward.

Last night I noticed 3 other problems. Nothing major, just another cog in the wheels of progress.

There is a temperature probe and copper line. The probe was inside the upper radiator hose and secured under the hose clamp. I put everything back the way I took it apart (when I replaced the intake, I drained down some coolant and removed the upper hose).
Well I really did torque down the hose clamp but it still leaked under where the probe line follows the radiator neck and under the clamped hose. I can’t tighten it anymore - suggestions?

#2, I only noticed this once. When I was spraying starter fluid down the carb to get a cold motor started (about 3 times before I could keep my hands and foot off the throttle) I noticed a puddle of fuel collecting around the accelerator pump shaft on the top of the carb. Minutes later it drain down and hasn’t happened since. I feel that this should never happen unless the float was adjusted too high. I thought I had the float set correctly at 1/4” from the float top to the casting top edge.
Something to be concerned with and just watch, or take off the airhorn and check things out?
And the 3rd issue still remains that the choke plates are not closing when I plip the the pedal once to the floor and stay off while trying to start. I could bet my life everything was reassembled correctly, but I’m not feeling things are alright.

I willing to take one step at a time. Cook up a new throttle/accelerator linkage that works and it’s safe. Get the car running and up to temperature so I can watch for leaks at the upper radiator hose, the T Stat neck and check for vacuum leaks around the intake and carb. Then with my vacuum gauge tune the carb. The choke has me concerned but I’ll leave it alone for the time being.
Look at that beautiful throttle lever!

 

[B&R Racing]

Nice Richard.
You talk fast typing just like yesterday our phone call.
You know we talked for 1-1/2 hours !
You have so many thoughts going on every second like me.

The Bellcrank on your 1968 Catalina convertible must be relaxed Zero load when setting the last linkage rod to the Quadrajet.
Must not be tight taught it's too short then.
I use a Mechanics pry par on the accelerator pedal against the drivers seat lower seat cushion to check WOT opening for 100 % verified.
1 man then checking.

Suspect Float Level is a little high.
I use 9/32" inch float setting.
Hold the Q-jet upside down and left hand thumb on the Float pivot pin.
Use that white plastic slide ruler given in kits remarked for 9/32" .
I go about 3/16" in from outer float edge.
Way back in 1990s Q-jet Delco replacement floats had a casted in line where you measured from to main body casting.
It was 3/16" in from edge my memory.
Right where usual edge radius ends and it's pure flat surface.

 

[B&R Racing]

Take the temp probe out from the upper radiator hose.
Take a small screwdriver and poke carefully through the cooling find not the radiator tubes!
Make sure to push the pocket screwdriver straight through not tipped at an angle then poke a coolant tube. New problem.
Insert the temp probe through the small hole in the find.
About 1.000 inch from the radiator upper coolant Tube forwards passenger side.