TBucket 200-4R Transmission Project
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
finding and learning during the process is the most important part, getting the first trans youve ever worked on perfect would be great but its not 100% sure to happen, yet if you learn a good deal its well worth the time and money spent!
" TRANSPTS0027
PTS Xtreme CHROME MOLY PUMP RING KIT
PTS Xtreme Pump Ring Kit come with a pair of chrome moly rings and a high performance slide spring. Broken pump rings are one of the most common 200 4R breakage problems and result in total destruction of the front pump and generally damage or destroy the... ???
PTS Xtreme CHROME MOLY PUMP RING KIT
PTS Xtreme Pump Ring Kit come with a pair of chrome moly rings and a high performance slide spring. Broken pump rings are one of the most common 200 4R breakage problems and result in total destruction of the front pump and generally damage or destroy the... ???
Yes, that is what you need. The max pressure is controlled but the pressure regulator, also in the pump. But if your vanes and rings don't form a very tight seal (machined flat and at 90 degrees to stator support) you will not achieve as much pressure as you could.
More damage from the pump ring failure. Good thing I have a second transmission to get parts from.
I pulled this sub-assembly.
Then I removed the sun gear from the planetary gear set. The pump ring failure has caused more damage.
After removing the sub-assembly above and then looking deeper into the trans you can see even more trash.
Looks like there is no doubt that I will be pulling the other 200-4R apart, but this is
at least very good experience for me.
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some of those pictures of trashed internal components and trans gears are PAINFUL to look at!!
I really hate to see a project that looks so promising ,where your initially thinking its just going to require a basic rebuild, with gaskets and a few worn parts, slowly dissolve into a need for a great deal many more new parts that may wind up costing more in total that you could just buy a performance built transmission
in an ideal world youll have a shift kit, and converter stall speed matched in that transmission, so under light throttle the engine rpms stay reasonably low and the trans shifts at lets say, 4200rpm, to the next higher gear, but under full throttle , the trans should shift several hundred rpm past peak horse power in the rpm range
I really hate to see a project that looks so promising ,where your initially thinking its just going to require a basic rebuild, with gaskets and a few worn parts, slowly dissolve into a need for a great deal many more new parts that may wind up costing more in total that you could just buy a performance built transmission
in an ideal world youll have a shift kit, and converter stall speed matched in that transmission, so under light throttle the engine rpms stay reasonably low and the trans shifts at lets say, 4200rpm, to the next higher gear, but under full throttle , the trans should shift several hundred rpm past peak horse power in the rpm range
I'm not too worried, I've only spent $75 on the two 200-4R transmission that I have. Most of the
200-4R that are ready to install and can handle 450+ HP cost in the neighborhood of $1700, that's
without a torque converter. The local salvage yard sells them for $175 and guaranteed to work,
so if I have to, I can get all the normally reusable parts for $175.
thats a good point, I wish I could get 4l80Eauto transmissions or even old muncie manual transmissions that cheaply
Yer good- No sweat. The pump is as expected. IT was likely you were going to have to machine that flat anyway.
The sun gear/shell and planetary typically fail as well. I cracked mine and had to replace it with a hardened assembly. You needed to do that anyway as well.
The trash down there look like sheared return springs and a piece of washer. You will see when you reach the band and anchor pin. I seem to recall you need a slightly over sized (and hardened) anchor pin to prevent if from cocking and seizing the band and trashing innards. (That had happened on my spare trans.) I think yer all good...
The sun gear/shell and planetary typically fail as well. I cracked mine and had to replace it with a hardened assembly. You needed to do that anyway as well.
The trash down there look like sheared return springs and a piece of washer. You will see when you reach the band and anchor pin. I seem to recall you need a slightly over sized (and hardened) anchor pin to prevent if from cocking and seizing the band and trashing innards. (That had happened on my spare trans.) I think yer all good...
So far Chris at CK Performance has not mentioned needing other than what I have purchased
already. Once I get both transmissions torn down and see what I'm up against, I need to have
another chat with him and specifically ask about the things you have brought up.
Thanks for the feedback!
Do you need your book back anytime soon?
Nope - don't need it any time soon.
Looking over your parts...
I have the D5 convereter. I did break it at a race when I left the lockup on. I had it rebuilt with kevlar... so far so good. Tho' I'll never again race with the lockup on.
Hmmm, that sun/planet assy is typically one of the first things to fail. You will be happy you did replace that.
The hardened support needs to be pressed in and machined perfectly vertical. You cannot machine flat then press in...
Looking over your parts...
I have the D5 convereter. I did break it at a race when I left the lockup on. I had it rebuilt with kevlar... so far so good. Tho' I'll never again race with the lockup on.
Hmmm, that sun/planet assy is typically one of the first things to fail. You will be happy you did replace that.
The hardened support needs to be pressed in and machined perfectly vertical. You cannot machine flat then press in...
I've gotten more of the trans apart now. I'm trying to keep the pics in sequence as the
parts come out.
Next to be removed was the 4th Gear Clutch Piston. As always it's another snap ring to
be removed and then just lift the piston out.
Next is the Center Support. First is the removal of another snap ring, this time I use a
screwdriver since my snap ring pliers are too small. It's going to be harder to get out since
there is not much to get a hold of it with. This is where having the trans on an engine
stand has it's advantages. Rotating the trans until it is pointing down and letting gravity
help with the removal. Also used a heavy wire with a hook bent on the end to help pull
on the center support.
Many times the Direct Drum comes out with the Center Support, but not in my case. It's
just a matter of reaching in and removing it.
With the Direct Drum out of the way, the 2nd Gear Band can be lifted out.
So far this is what the line up of parts looks like when put end-to-end on the bench.
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NOTE: I edited one pic above that I had labeled wrong as the output shaft. I replaced the last
pic with one that does a better job of explaining what I had in mind.
Next to come out is the Forward Clutch Drum, just grab the shaft and lift it out.
Remove the snap ring and lift out the Front Planetary Ring Gear. There is a small chance that
the output shaft could slide out, so you might want to hang on to it. But I found there were so
many splines that would have line up it's not likely.
Next you can lift out the Front Planetary Carrier and the Sun Gear Shell. You might have to
rotate the sun gear shell back-and-forth to get it out.
It's on the bench now and we are looking at the components just removed from the back side.
All the metal pieces from the pump rings that failed has stayed in the front half on the
trans or in front of the center section.
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