TBucket 200-4R Transmission Project

No matter what I try the Forward Clutch Housing (618) will NOT come out! There is
nothing that should be holding it, something in the clutches behind and inside must
be messed up. It wiggles around and the Sun Gear Shell rotates backwards from the
FCH.

So how do I get it out???

FP05_ForwardClutchHousing(618)_00647.jpg
 
just a bit of info, if you want a new transmission,core for spare parts,
I called the local "U-PULL-AUTO-PARTS"
and the salvage yard quoted me $220
for ANY AUTO TRANSMISSION I CARE TO PULL
and I asked again, any auto trans regardless of make/model/year?
and was told yes..
but that trans does not come with a warantee its looked at as a core
so Id be looking for a car/truck, source ,that had been in an accident as it had to be running to be driving,
if the car/truck you pull it out of,
is undamaged it MIGHT be in the salvage yard,
because the trans failed.
Id also look to see if theres indications,
the car/truck had been under water or in a fire,
that might have damaged the transmission

transtrength.png
 
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I think the 200 4r can survive in a 2000 lb. bucket just fine. It was ok for 5 years and just died when subjected to non-normal events. When we get the trans apart all will be right with the world.
I’m so confident I’m sticking to my plan to back up a blown big block with one.
 
It lived behind the turbocharged v-6 in the grand nationals. Now with aftermarket updates I hope you are wrong. We’ll see.
 
.
John came over and with 10 tries he finally got the Forward Clutch apart, below is how John did it !!!

Some TIG welding rod shaped to provide a hook to attach a come-along to. I provided the aluminum
channel to put across the bellhousing needed to attach to.

FP06_ForwardClutchHousingRemove(618)_00648.jpg

FP06_ForwardClutchHousing(618)_00650.jpg

As I suspected the clutch plates had been friction welded together. That's why it required such a
large force to remove the Forward Clutch Housing (FCH) (618).

FP06_ForwardClutchBurnt(618)_00652.jpg

FP06_ForwardClutchPlatesBurnt(626)_00654.jpg

The clutch plates below are not just lightly stuck together, not even prying on the tabs with a
screwdriver would NOT break them free.

FP06_ForwardClutchPlatesBurnt(626)_00657.jpg


Amazing how much damage 3 little washer can cause when in the wrong place. Damn what
a cluster F, I executed !!! Both in time and money, this won't be cheap to fix.

The FCH ($350) got so hot that it turned blue on the outside surface, so I'm wondering if it will need
replacing. If so then that means machine work will be required, raising the cost even higher. Oh then
there is a all friction and steel plates thru out.

I have a call into Chris at CK Performance where I have purchased all my parts so far.

http://www.ckperformance.com/List/GM-Transmissions/2004R

.
 
That sucks Rick. Sorry for your loss.

Is there any room in your T-bucket for a Gear Vendors Overdrive unit?
 
Buy a used tranny and use parts from it. Extras all around.

Necessity is the mother of all inventions, in your case a home made puller that worked.

Maniac is correct, it didn't just happen.
 
Rick it is dead sorry you used a come along replacing the drum is a definate minimum of the issues. Yes he comes off strong about turbo 400 it is the best bang 4 buck transmission out there. Yes 200-4r can be build but needs more specialty parts to survive behind you engine. You are making really good power and torque you at the limits of that trans mission. Professional builders $3500 200-4r rated 450 ftlbs 600hp only reason it lasted as long as it did was the lightness of your T. I know it sucks but it's the truth. Your options are rebuild get new core that core has been blown up twice once with the pump and lots of hard parts distroyed and now overheated to the point of discoloration. If you try to use the case as a core be prepared to measure it's roundness. Maniacs plan get cheap 400 build to enjoy for summer while you get 4l80e and work that into future. Gear vendor also nice option. Try to think long term Rick put the options on paper then take an honest look at the benefits and fall backs of each on paper. I feel your pain I have a 700r4 and the tko600 I want tremic says is not gonna play well in my rpm redline. It is not a drag race thing. Protouring guys same issues but worst down shifting under engine breaking kills sprags.
 
Mmmm, I had several, consistent 11 second runs on the heavy TT with the 200-4r. The dyno indicated over 600HP at the wheel TQ even higher - I would have to dig up the exact numbers. The street manners on that 200-4r were AMAZING.

However, I did have that trans in and out 7 times before I got it right. But once you get it right... :eek::eek::eek:

BTW, each time I had it out... it was either a mistake I made or the weakest link, that I knew was weak, broke... I gambled and wound up having to replace it anyway, but typically after several month of cruising. :D

Hang in there Indy !!!!!!
 
In and out over 11 years as the TT went from NA 400 CID, TFS heads, 144 baby blown, AFR heads, centrifugal blown, roller blower cam, all the way to water/methanol injection at 14 PSI

It’s dead nuts reliable. The two time it busted: stock torque converter failed at the lock up clutch, and the sun gear cracked. Also to be expected considering the power jumps I was doing.
 
Just... hmmmm, I can’t imagine how frustrated you must be. And balls out pissed! A couple of washers a minor oversight cascades into this.

Hmmm. Hopefully there will not be too much to replace.
 
DorianL said:
I can’t imagine how frustrated you must be. And balls out pissed!
Click to expand...
I'm black & blue all over from kicking myself !!!

DorianL said:
Hopefully there will not be too much to replace.
Click to expand...
Most likely $350 for another Master Rebuild Kit B, a Pump Upgrade $70 - $200 and a Grand National
Governor $150. Possibly more for any recommendations from Chris at CK Performance.

BTW, Happy Father's Day !!!
 
The silliest things I’ve ever done with mine...

I had just reinstalled after rebuilding. Imagine, working alone... bench pressing the trans into the car, on your back on a cobblestone driveway (ouch). I did the pressure tests - everything checked out. I back up a few feet (not even enough to clear my driveway) and POP! I have nothing. No fw. No reverse. Nothing. I drop the trans and... the output shaft snap ring was not fully seated and had popped off. Duh !

I got the snap ring on right and reinstalled... again on cobblestones. I take it for a short test drive and... in the rear view I see an oil slick you could waterski on !!!! I pull over... and so does a rather large cop on a bike. Indeed, he had to literally call the fire department to clean the mess off the road. Imagine a big red fire truck blasting foam away at the mess you made. Thank goodness for insurance!!!! What was the problem? Servo snap ring was not fully seated. Duh !!

I get that squared away, putt-putting around town seems ok and I feel brave enough to take it for a spin on the highway. All is peachy. The sun is shining and people are waving at me on the highway. I thought they were being friendly but no... there was a giant cone of smoke trailing me. It turns out I overfilled (my deep pan) with 14 liters of ATF instead of 14 quarts; the trans had puked all over the dual exhaust and was smoldering away. What a mess that was. Before anyone asks... my dipstick was a Lokar. They look cool but, made out of nylon, they are very difficult to read.

Aaaand finally, I take it to the track and forget to turn off the TC lockup when racing. The first few runs were awesome. The last run, I hear a bang as I cross the finish line. It of course sheared off all the friction material and dumped it into the pan plugging the pickup and of course not allowing me to drive more than a few miles before losing drive.

Out it came... again !
 
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