Discussion in 'transmission and Drive train' started by Indycars, Jul 13, 2012.
Yaw that would be a thrill also!!!
Look at that Killer Torque rating.
Congratulations Rick. There is still some summer left. Enjoy it while it lasts
AND DRIVE THE WHEELS OFF OF THAT T-BUCKET!
I plan to do just that !!!
Try adjusting the TV cable to lower the shift points. There is an article somewhere on one forum or another that shows how to do that properly. I'll hunt and seek to find it.
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instruc ... adjust.htm
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmi ... cable.html
http://www.high-impact.net/transmission ... bleAdj.htm
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/su ... 0R4p1.html
http://www.outlawtransmissions.com/v/vs ... cables.pdf
lock up related info
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku
http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... ode=376600
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog ... ITEMID=331
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/su ... 0R4p1.html
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/su ... hinfo.html
http://www.scribd.com/doc/487923/700R4- ... ndamentals
If You buy a Pressure Tranducer you datatlog .
Maybe I didn't mention that I bought a Grand National Governor Assembly from CK Performance to
help with the WOT shift points. It's had a small effect at very small throttle positions also.
I believe I am at the minimum TV position now. It has to have an immediate effect when there is any
change in throttle position from idle. Right now the pressure is 3 psi higher with the cable connected
than without the cable.
I have the BTO TV Made EZ system with the SS Braided cable.
Once connected, using the adjuster nuts, you need to adjust the cable until you see a 2-4 PSI increase on
your pressuregauge above the pressure shown at idle with the TV cable disconnected. Once this preload
pressure has been established, even slight gentle forward movement of the TV cable where it exits the TV
cable adapter housing should result in instant pressure response on the gauge. This test must be done by
gently pulling the TV cable not movement of the Throttle linkage! The pressure response must be evident
with even very small forward movements by the TV cable.
thats good info that you posted and its surely going to help prevent someone from screwing up a future tv cable adjustment,
just knowing that you can use a pressure gauge and what too look for when you use a pressure gauge to help verify the tv cable adjustment process can be helpful alone, as it is a big plus here.
if you can post pictures and links of the gauge you used,
and its proper connections on the transmission, that would also be helpful,
maybe its just the engineering background Ive had but I love to see a dash with lots of well laid out easy to read gauges, a carefully labeled fuse box and unique color coded wire of at least 12 ga to most gauges with well soldered connectors and carefully placed multiple ground straps from the engine and transmission to the frame,a battery disconnect switch,fuel line cut off valve, at least AN# 8 fuel lines, a fuel filter with a easy to inspect clear drain valve, a low oil pressure ignition cut off circuit, an ignition with a rev limiter, and a security system and anodes used in the coolant system
heres a list of the 13 MINIMAL gauges Id "like" too see mounted in a dash display on my car
keeping a constant eye on whats happening in the engine compartment helps prevent and diagnose problems
engine plenum vacuum
coolant temperature (plus fan on indicator light)
trans fluid temperature (plus aux cooler fan on indicator light)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-3 ... dia/images
fuel/air ratio meter
EXHAUST GAS TEMPS, one for each exhaust collector bank
really these are optional but nice to have
http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/SG ... nheit.html
OF COURSE THERES ALWAYS SOME GUY PUSHING THINGS PAST A REASONABLE USEFUL LIMIT
All the BRF code Buick Grand National Valvebodies from Chris from CK Performance sold on ebay.
All 5 are gone.
People in the know gladly paid the $500 Cash.
There is a port just for measuring pressure right of the pump. The the 200-4R, it's on the driver side and
I purchased a Tester by OTC 5610 from Amazon. It has two 3-1/2 inch gauges, one goes to 100 psi and the other
goes up to 400 psi. The 400 psi gauge is connected to the car, since I need to read pressure in the neighborhood
of 250 psi.
thank you RICK,
love the pictures,
I kinda expected the line pressure gauge to be installed in the t-bucket dash..
but I can easily see a test gauge used as you displayed
Before I made my 900 mile trip to Waco last weekend, I changed out the remote Wix filter and
drained the pan. It took about 6 quarts to replace the fluid in the pan, filter and the cooler.
After draining the pan I could see the metal particles below. I ran a magnet thru the metal and got
very very little pickup. What you see in the photo looks much worse than it does in
person. The photo is much bigger than the real thing.
I cut open the filter and could find nothing. I looked at it under magnification and I also ran my finger
thru the filter pleats and got zero black material on my finger tip. So it looks good to go as they say.
Working on saving all those parts that I purchased, don't wont' them to turn to rust. So I cleaned them in
the parts washer, let them drain and then used compressed air to dry them. Next I put them in a pan of ATF
to invade all the crevices before storing then.
Still have lots of parts to go!!!
its great too see you got a bargain on those parts and its even better knowing you are taking the time and effort to preserve and store them correctly,
I know most guys would simply throw them on a shelf, and then when you look at them in sever years find a bunch of rusted junk,
and wish only then that you had taken the time to save and protect parts that by then are nearly non-existent
Yea the planet gears were hard to turn with all the dried up crap inside of them. I had to work
them back and forth in the parts washer to break up the dirt and get it out. They sound like a
turbine spinning up now when I hit them with compressed air and feel smooth when rotated
Rick is planning to be around for a long time.
Cleaning more part getting ready to bag them for storage. These rollers go in a one-way clutch, so
they don't get as much action as some bearings. Just washing them I noticed 4 that I wanted to inspect
further. In the end, I looked at every roller with the naked eye and some got further scrutiny with my
eye loupe that 8x magnification.
I did find one that has a crack developing along the length of the roller. I think I will put this one
in Bob's transmission!
I sign to me the factory 200R4 Roller needle bearings are surface induction hardened.
Not Case hardened.
Cyanide pellet furnace heat treated.
I Would use all NOS in Bob's trans possible.
Just don't have those issues Rick with Muncie 4 speed.
The mighty 400.
Just Drive and Race.
The Mighty 4L80E GM spared no expense building also.
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