TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Looks like a good time Rick yeah you will have to find that happy point on detonation where fuel mixture and timing are happy. I truely believe you should put it on a dyno for a half day with a good plan. You will be ableto get MBT and know if you pulling anything from the combo for pump gas.
 
I was going to do that last time I had the engine out, but the shop had some kind of family situation going on and could not get ahold of them.
 
Would not hurt to go there and talk to them. I find discussing it in person is the best way show them your concerns and let them know what you are looking to accomplish. I would aim to figure out a race fuel tune and a 93 tune start with the 93 octane tune as that one is the most important. Be prepared to be able to make adjustments quick as time is money. But well worth it my opinion I thought this out and it is fastest way to get that timing curve exactly where it needs to be and the wideband tells the fuel story. read up on those books I sent you they have good strategies for dyno tuning in them.
 
You could always take it to the Street Outlaws guys. Midwest Street Cars Automotive.
ccca4516c1bda7c164332cf693fadd1c--outlaw-racing-drag-racing.jpg
 
Do they have a chassis dyno, I didn't see one on their website. Not sure I like their attitudes either.
 
I'm wondering if the the NGK spark plugs will work in the same heads(Brodix IK200) that the Champion's I took out? I bought the NGK's last year, but just realize that their dimensions are slightly different.

FP03_SparkPlugCompare_6366.jpg
NGK_FR5_7373_6361.JPG
NGK_FR5_7373_6363.JPG
 
Sure they will fit. It's just that the Champion uses the larger 13/16" hex and the NGK uses the smaller 5/8" hex.
Besides, where you measured is not the part that does the sealing. It is the compression washer, and those both look the same size in the pictures.
 
yes WELCOME BACK!
the more older and experienced older geezers on the web site the better.
 
I've been having a problem with the TBucket lately, when I reach about 3000 rpm it starts cutting out. Looked like it's time to change spark plugs, I already had some from last summer. So I installed them at .040" gap, still have the same problem. Took it for a drive just to do a couple of tests concerning the problem, the wife doesn't like it when I get on it hard. Sure enough the problem is still there, then I wondered if it would happen if the engine was NOT under load. Sure enough just holding at about 3000 rpm the problem came back. Got it home and the transmission in park, raised the rpm to 3000 and it did the same thing.


I've never been able to set the rpm limiter, which is done by holding the rpm at 1/2 the set rpm and grounding the gray lead of the distributor for 1-2 seconds. For example if I raise the rpm to 3000 and grounded the gray wire, the limiter would not allow the rpm to go over 6000. So my thought turned to a malfunction of the limiter. So I tried to reset it to 2500/5000 several times, no change. I found some MSD documentation to disable the limiter, but that did not make any difference. At some point the problem started happening at 2000 rpm, not sure if it's something I did.


Don't do what I did, assume that the magnetic pickup coil wires are connected to the 3 pin connector for the distributor. The instructions are abit misleading. I measured at the 3 pin connector red wire to orange wire and got an out-of-range measurement of 13.64 MegaOhms. It should be 400-1300 ohms. At some point I started getting suspicious after I pulled the distributor and started disassembly, but I had already bought a MSD 84661 pickup coil at $30. It became obvious that the pickup wires went to the circuit board.


After getting it apart I desoldered the purple wire to isolate it from the circuit. Then I took a resistance measurement of 600 ohms. Magnetic pickup coil is good, that falls between 400-1300 ohms.


I posted a question on the MSD forum yesterday (7/31/2017), hopefully I will hear something today.

Not sure why, but I got gasoline out of the vacuum diaphragm.

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FP01_DistributorWireStrainRelief_0007.jpg FP01_GasolineInVacuumDiaphram_0006.jpg

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I love the clear picture quality!

as always ISOLATE AND TEST
the first thing Id have tried in that case, if it was my car,
would have been to swap in a known good spare distributor,
(A small base circle HEI is preferred as it fits more applications)
and it certainly won,t hurt to have two test distributors,
why? well its a rather quick and rather simple way to isolate the problems source.
too find out if its a distributor or other component of the ignition system.
once you know its a distributor or a different component your 1/2 way to solving the problem
now I know someone will point out the fact that you might not have a good spare distributor handy,
thats one reason to visit your local salvage yard,
in most cases you can find one in decent shape for less than $30 to use as a spare for testing.
obviously verify your ignition advance curve and ignition timing.

small cap distributors measure approximately 4" in diam.
chevroletsmallbodyhei.jpg

LARGE cap distributors measure approximately 5.25" in diam.
and theres both male and female ignition wire connection style caps
distcap1.jpg

distcap2.jpg

distcap3.jpg



related links and sub-links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/verifying-your-real-advance-curve.4683/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ignition-advance-issue.12681/#post-64950

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-issues.11516/#post-53087

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-timing-question.1411/#post-3281

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-a-vacuum-gauge-and-carb-tuning.383/#post-470

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ouble-shooting-rebuilding-hei-ignitions.2798/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-tuning-info-and-links.109/
 
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WOW. That is a lot of gasoline in the vacuum advance canister. How the heck can that even happen?
Choose another vacuum port on the carb if you have one available.
I hate to say it Rick, but MSD's quality went into the crapper. I think they are now made overseas.

So I guess you finished rewiring the T-bucket.
 
It's the only manifold vacuum port on the carburetor.

I'm sure you right, all you have to do is read the posts on their forum
and many other forums about all the failed parts!

I tested the coil with a resistance test, which is not a conclusive test. It could tell you if it was bad with a short on one of the windings, but not whether it's good. You need a scope and a way to put a load on it for that.

Coil Part Number 8207:
Tested
Primary (Plus to Minus) = .4 Ohms
Secondary (Plus to Center Tower) = 4.26 Kilo Ohms

Spec
Primary = 0.355 ohms
Secondary = 4.4 Kilo Ohms

I bought this distributor for testing purposes at $40. It will use the coil I have.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262454150596
Distributor for Testing.jpg
 
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