No, not at this point, but the Tach go crazy when it starts cutting out.Did you test that it was cutting spark at said rpm using a timing light Rick?
I'm still wondering why there is gasoline in the vacuum diaphragm. Maybe it's been there since the first time I started when I didn't realize how rich it was running until the choke started to come off.For your vacuum advance connection, manifold vacuum is manifold vacuum.
I did look at under 4 power desk light, but wasn't sure what I was looking for. I should take another look at it with my eye loupe (8x).That arc path on the rotor is nearly impossible to see.
You need an eye loupe.
Hey Rick, let me tell you a story that might help.
My 95 GMC K1500 truck has a 305 TBI engine with the small body distributor and remote coil.
Occasionally and randomly the engine would stutter and one day in a winter storm on my way
to work at night, it cut out completely. No doubt it was lack of spark.
Long story short, it turned out to be the rotor. The spark burns a path through the center of the rotor
and it gets grounded out to the center post of the distributor. So spark comes into the cap from the
coil, but never makes it out to the plug wires. That arc path on the rotor is nearly impossible to see.
You need an eye loupe.
To test, you should be able to connect your timing light to the coil wire, remove the rotor, and crank the engine
to check for strong spark. Or just try another rotor.
But with the tests you already did, like you I'm thinking the rev limiter inside the distributor is faulty.
Are you talking about a silicone lubricant? What do you use?I have always sprayed the cap and rotor with silicone inside and out and let it dry a bit and was told it would stop the burning and corrosion of both by the hot spark. Also with water proofing from rain and such. Once wires are on, spray them at the cap to seal good so water can't get get under the boots.
Gosh, what would you buy? Surely not a points type distributor...... right?I would never buy a distributor with a electrical circuit inside NEVER.
It has run just fine and the magnetic pickup and magnet were not loose when I removed them. There were no changes before the problem and the change in spark plugs was the only change, which did NOT effect the problem. MSD tells you about the magnet and they also paint two stripe on the magnet so you can install it correctly. Of course they could always label one incorrectly. That happened on the MSD forum and they had to use a compass to determine polarity.The magnetic pickup has a polatiry on the MAGNET(and you need to set the gap between pickup and rotor/shaft). If you put the magnet backward on the pickup it wont work correctly.(i know, probably not your case here.). And of course the wires have polarity too.
Hopefully the alternator has not gone bad. Can't remember what the voltage gauge has been reading.MSD want you to check the supply +12V at the coil. Probably just trying to rule out any electrical wiring problem since the ignition draw more current at higher rpm AND to have a guess if it work at all at different rpm, if it short out or etc.
Yes I changed spark plug from Champion to NGK (7373) FR5 and it is a resistor type plug.You changed spark plugs too?(did you change anything else?) did you go from non-resistor type to resistor type or vice-versa?
Yes, spray in a can bought at any auto parts store. Any brand works.Are you talking about a silicone lubricant? What do you use?