TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Discussion in 'Engine Combos and Dynometer Database' started by Indycars, Nov 3, 2010.

  1. mathd

    mathd solid fixture here in the forum

    Yes you are right, i think the combustion temperature is a little on the hot side me too(lack of coloration is probably due to the low"200 miles" on the plugs, so i assume a/f and plug temp are just fine for now). maby richening the a/f mixture a little could help it run colder(rich plenum charge give good throttle response especially with big plenum/blower ;))?
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
  2. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    The new module did NOT come with the Weatherpack terminals installed. So I decided to
    cut the wires and solder/shrink wrap the connection. So I was also able to lengthen the
    wires to the Weatherpack connector. I don' have any of the Weatherpack parts, all the
    connector components I have are the Deutsch DT and DTM connectors.

    FP03_MSD_ASY14548_00013.jpg

    While I had the MSD distributor apart, I tightened up the end play by .003 inches. It's
    now set at .007 inches.

    To get the old module free of the housing I had to cut the wires. See the below photo
    and arrow.

    FP03_OldElectronicModule_00015.jpg

    I seem to have this affliction where by I ALWAYS FORGET SOMETHING that has to go on before
    the step I'm on. So this time I soldered and shrink wrapped all my connections and realize that I
    needed to install the strain relief before that. So what can I do now.... forget about it or redo all the
    connections, but wait there is another solution. Remove the terminals from the Weatherpack
    connector, they will go thru the strain relief one at a time. So it looks like I need another tool. Could
    not find it locally so I ordered it from Amazon. I will have to cut the gray wire, put it thru the strain
    relief and then redo the that one connection.

    Delphi Packard Weatherpack Terminal Release Tool
    WeatherpackTerminalReleaseTool.jpg
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IIY56E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Used some paste type flux and rosin core solder to make the connection below. Let me point
    out that it's VERY IMPORTANT to use rosin core solder for electronics. Acid core is used for
    plumbing.

    I think the solder joint looks pretty good, alittle too much solder, but otherwise its good
    functionally. Now I'm ready because I'm sure Mathd (Mathieu) will have to slap me around
    some and point out where I went wrong. hehehe !!! :p Go ahead, I can take it!

    FP03_SolderJoint_00016.jpg
    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    use of and taking the time and effort, when building or repairing the wiring on any custom car, to install a $5 -$7, UNIQUE for each electrical component , quick connect indexed water resistant screw-up proof, male/female connector combo, that allow's you too quickly connector remove a distributor or other component from the cars wire harness and re-install it with little chance of screwing up the electrical connections is almost always a good idea

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/#post-68805

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/heat-shrink-tubing.1443/#post-28050

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-33365
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2017 at 12:28 PM
  4. Loves302Chevy

    Loves302Chevy "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

    I just bought one of these Rick.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Tools...952153&hash=item4d31766452:g:tqkAAOSweW5Vek27

    Lisle wire terminal tools are designed to remove wires from terminals without damage to either.
    The prongs depress the barbs on conventional terminal.
    Tool can also retrieve trouble codes from engine computer on late model GM vehicles.
    It comes with brand new in factory packaging. Made in U.S.A.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 13, 2017 at 11:29 AM
  5. mathd

    mathd solid fixture here in the forum

    Looking good, I usually dont use flux paste unless the part am soldering to is badly corroded, usually i will replace the part...
    Instead I use a solder with a strong flux core instead.(AIM 63/37 with RA flux... RMA work too but is a bit milder)
    I use liquid flux for SMD soldering of very small package with iron and/or a hot air station.
    It look like they put a resin over the new pcb(some kind of protection?) or they forgot to clean the flux?(that can be done with a tooth brush and acetone or alcohol etc).
     
  6. Strictly Attitude

    Strictly Attitude solid fixture here in the forum

    I had just bought the tools but I have a whole car I plan to wire all my efi need crimping
     
  7. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Nice tool, but how can it pull trouble codes? There are no electronic!
     
  8. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    The pic of the pcb is exactly as it came from MSD. Is there a down side to not cleaning the pcb.
     
  9. Loves302Chevy

    Loves302Chevy "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

    The MSD circuit board was cleaned and sealed after testing. Leave it alone.

    That terminal tool can jump pins A & B on OBD1 to retrieve the trouble codes.
     
  10. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    First I needed to install the new circuit board into the distributor. I used the tool above to
    remove the terminals from the plastic component of the connector. Then I slipped them
    thru the strain relief one at time. Not easy when you get to the last Weatherpack terminal,
    but doable.

    FP04_WiresThruStrainRelief_00025.jpg

    Here is a tip I learned from my RC Car racing days. Always assemble the snap ring with the
    sharp edge facing out. Because they are made using a stamping process, it leaves a round
    edge on one side (Leading Edge) and a sharp edge (Trailing Edge) on the other side. Use
    that to your advantage.

    FP04_SnapRingSides_00019_00020.jpg

    Stamping Video on YouTube .... no need to watch the whole video, but it was the best I
    could find.



    FP04_SnapSharpEdgeOut_00021.jpg


    Before snapping the Weatherpack terminals into the plastic part, I had to carefully bend the
    tangs out. This way they would not come right back out, that would lock them in like they should be.

    FP04_WeatherpackTerminalCloseup_00027.jpg
    FP04_WeatherpackTerminalCloseup_00029.jpg


    I noted which way the rotor was pointed before I removed the test distributor. Inserted
    the MSD distributor duplicating the rotor direction. Brought the balancer to 10° BTDC on
    cylinder #1/compression stroke, then went back to the distributor for setup.

    FP04_10°BTDC_00032.jpg

    Made sure the distributor housing was pointing to my reference mark designating #1 on
    the cap. Rotated the housing/vacuum diaphragm to my other reference mark on the intake
    manifold. Next two images.......
    Connect the timing light, ready to start!

    FP04_RotorToHousingReferenceMark_00023.jpg
    FP04_VacuumDiaphragmToManifoldReference_00024.jpg

    Bottom line, it has fixed my problem!!!

    Still beat a stock VW bug shifting at 2000 RPM. :eek:
     
    Strictly Attitude likes this.
  11. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    btw THANK YOU FOR POSTING GREAT QUALITY PHOTOS (AGAIN)

    and I,m glad to hear your making headway on getting the engine in tha t-bucket, running closer to its intended potential.
     
  12. Loves302Chevy

    Loves302Chevy "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

    Good job Rick.
    Here is a tip I learned from my RC Car racing days. Always assemble the snap ring with the
    sharp edge facing out. Because they are made using a stamping process, it leaves a round
    edge on one side (Leading Edge) and a sharp edge (Trailing Edge) on the other side. Use
    that to your advantage.

    This also applies to floating piston wrist pins where snap rings are used.

    Since you have such a good picture there (last pic showing the vacuum advance canister up against the intake manifold), I will mention that if you had this situation where you were trying to set the timing and needed a couple of more degrees, but something was preventing the distributor from rotating further, and you already tried moving it 1 tooth back but still have the same problem of interference, just on the other side, then I learned that there is a way to get "half of a tooth". Remove the roll pin holding the distributor gear and rotate the gear 180 degrees in relation to the rotor. There are 9 teeth on that gear, so by rotating it halfway around, you are actually moving it 1/2 tooth.
     
  13. Strictly Attitude

    Strictly Attitude solid fixture here in the forum

    glad to hear it fixed it all up did it fix the detonation issue also Rick?
     
  14. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    That's a good tip and something that may prove useful someday.
     
  15. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Don't know yet, have not had it out on the highway.
     

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