But the lock plate I have does not fit my cam and I don't see one listed with enough info to
determine if they will fit on Summit or Jegs.
TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
determine if they will fit on Summit or Jegs.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
You could also go to a washer with a larger OD and use a round file to make a notch that locks into the pin on the camshaft.
JohnHancock
Well-Known Member
I have some sheet metal we can make a plate to cover the end of the cam or just a strip between 2 bolts for button retainer.
JohnHancock
Well-Known Member
Nice job Rick. Your attention to detail is awesome.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Should be fine Rick with Red Locktite on the Cam bolts.
Your going to want to degree the cam in to verify where your at exact Intake centerline.
Last time I played with offset Cam bushings on a Chevy Small block was around 2002.
1St guy I was dirt track racing with.
Rocky.
His nickname.
I did not like those offset bushings myself.
Made him buy a Cloyes Race True roller with a 9-way keyed crank sprocket.
I liked much better and found it to be dead on nuts accurate..
The TA one time I used a Pontiac V8 Cloyes Hex a ajust Race True Roller.
Gave you a special Billet fuel pump eccentric. Turning the eccentric with cam bolt loose adjusted timing with a special cut Master woodruff key cut on multi tangent angles.
Worked ok nice degreeing a cam in.
A bit touchey to set.
Discontinued now for a Pontiac V8.
Chevy V8 version still made.
Your going to want to degree the cam in to verify where your at exact Intake centerline.
Last time I played with offset Cam bushings on a Chevy Small block was around 2002.
1St guy I was dirt track racing with.
Rocky.
His nickname.
I did not like those offset bushings myself.
Made him buy a Cloyes Race True roller with a 9-way keyed crank sprocket.
I liked much better and found it to be dead on nuts accurate..
The TA one time I used a Pontiac V8 Cloyes Hex a ajust Race True Roller.
Gave you a special Billet fuel pump eccentric. Turning the eccentric with cam bolt loose adjusted timing with a special cut Master woodruff key cut on multi tangent angles.
Worked ok nice degreeing a cam in.
A bit touchey to set.
Discontinued now for a Pontiac V8.
Chevy V8 version still made.
Last edited:
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Lol Grumpy.
Looking for more possible causes for detonation. The copper head gaskets I bought were very
close to the bore size, I think they were .030 inch bigger, so just .015 inch per side. So without
perfect alignment, I had to grind some places on the gasket to make sure they were not extending
into the cylinder, or so I thought.
It finally hit me that maybe there were places getting into the cylinder. The gaskets had a ring
all the way around and on both sides.
The photos are after I started cleaning, but much of the ring is left at this point. Does it look like
they are extending into the cylinder, I think maybe I'm looking for something to blame and there
is nothing going on with the gasket.
close to the bore size, I think they were .030 inch bigger, so just .015 inch per side. So without
perfect alignment, I had to grind some places on the gasket to make sure they were not extending
into the cylinder, or so I thought.
It finally hit me that maybe there were places getting into the cylinder. The gaskets had a ring
all the way around and on both sides.
The photos are after I started cleaning, but much of the ring is left at this point. Does it look like
they are extending into the cylinder, I think maybe I'm looking for something to blame and there
is nothing going on with the gasket.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Its a Preignition area Rick.
I dont think so as a cause.
The Carbon buildup on the piston tops was around 95% full coverage.
Very Good.
Efficient combustion chambers present on your Brodix Cylinder Heads.
I have the same with my iron Pontiac RAIV heads on TA.
But I have more Grey carbon...Tetraethyl lead from the 110 Race gas.
I dont think so as a cause.
The Carbon buildup on the piston tops was around 95% full coverage.
Very Good.
Efficient combustion chambers present on your Brodix Cylinder Heads.
I have the same with my iron Pontiac RAIV heads on TA.
But I have more Grey carbon...Tetraethyl lead from the 110 Race gas.
if your concerned ,
smooth the surface or edge of the copper gasket, until its slightly recessed between the head and block, carefully clean the gaskets and re-coat with copper coat spray before re-use.
it looks like simply smoothing the copper gaskets edge is all that required
https://widgetsupply.com/product/bbb30.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI3rSAzr6h2gIVBAVpCh27ZAjAEAQYAiABEgImkvD_BwE
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-71671
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43962
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-sealant-goes-where.700/#post-43768
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-49297
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/#post-71989
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...olishing-combustion-chambers.2630/#post-50238
smooth the surface or edge of the copper gasket, until its slightly recessed between the head and block, carefully clean the gaskets and re-coat with copper coat spray before re-use.
it looks like simply smoothing the copper gaskets edge is all that required
https://widgetsupply.com/product/bbb30.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI3rSAzr6h2gIVBAVpCh27ZAjAEAQYAiABEgImkvD_BwE
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-71671
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43962
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-sealant-goes-where.700/#post-43768
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-49297
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/#post-71989
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...olishing-combustion-chambers.2630/#post-50238
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Grumpy Has Razor Sharp Hawk Eyes for Details too.
You do post the best pictures.
You do post the best pictures.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Before I forget Rick...
I want to post this.
There should be a Free Air Calibration mode on your Wideband 02 Sensor.
I have an AEM .
Still boxed up.
No exhaust still.
Using the Butt dyno.
Sense of smell and listen to the engine.
I pulled all plugs recent.
Pretty close.
New plugs.
Timing witness mark on all right on.
I want to post this.
There should be a Free Air Calibration mode on your Wideband 02 Sensor.
I have an AEM .
Still boxed up.
No exhaust still.
Using the Butt dyno.
Sense of smell and listen to the engine.
I pulled all plugs recent.
Pretty close.
New plugs.
Timing witness mark on all right on.
Yes the O2 version 4.2 does require free air calibration, but the O2 version 4.9 does not.
I use the 4.9!
http://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...2-sensors/bosch-lsu-4-9-replacement-o2-sensor
AEM's Bosch 4.9LSU Wideband UEGO O2 replacement sensor kit includes only the sensor (with attached
cable and male connector) and is intended to replace an existing mounted wideband sensor used with
AEM Digital Wideband UEGO Air/Fuel Controller Part Number 30-4110.
These sensors have a laser-etched, calibrated resistor in the sensor’s connector body. This resistor is
specifically created for the exact sensor that it is attached to. Modifying this will invalidate the sensor’s
output. The wideband sensor is laboratory-calibrated at the Bosch factory, accurate to 0.1 AFR and
never requires free-air calibration when used with an AEM wideband AFR controller.
- Accurate to 0.1 AFR
- Never requires free-air calibration when used with an AEM Controller and connector plug.
- Specifically designed for use with AEM Wideband UEGO controller Part Number 30-4110
- Replacement sensor only
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
My AEM
My AEM Wideband UEGO Self Calibrates the moment its turned on.
It does a Bar code LED Flip from left to right and back on the display.
Then shows static AFR with the engine off or the Sensor out of the car.
When I worked at the race shop part of my job was strapping the cars down on the dyno.
We used 8-10 ratchet straps always.
Real High powered Twin Turbo cars came in with 40 psi of Boost.
Some had over 1500 rear wheel Hp.
Stuff we die to drive and own.
At Least Grumpy & Me, we do not fear dieing at all.
Anyhow I had to remove the customer's O2 sensor in one bank if it was a V8 or at times drill & weld in another 02 sensor bung myself with a Mig welder.
Then the Mustang AWD Dyno & HP TUNERS Software required us to free air calibrate the 02 sensor.
The Wideband 02 was over $500 bucks to replace....handle with care.
After free air calibration I screwed the shop dyno wideband 02 in.
A good question is how do you know if a Wideband 02 sensor is truly reading correct or Not ?
On an Engineering & Electronics level.
The Racer Mechanic Level where we are all here on Grumpys daily.
My AEM Wideband UEGO Self Calibrates the moment its turned on.
It does a Bar code LED Flip from left to right and back on the display.
Then shows static AFR with the engine off or the Sensor out of the car.
When I worked at the race shop part of my job was strapping the cars down on the dyno.
We used 8-10 ratchet straps always.
Real High powered Twin Turbo cars came in with 40 psi of Boost.
Some had over 1500 rear wheel Hp.
Stuff we die to drive and own.
At Least Grumpy & Me, we do not fear dieing at all.
Anyhow I had to remove the customer's O2 sensor in one bank if it was a V8 or at times drill & weld in another 02 sensor bung myself with a Mig welder.
Then the Mustang AWD Dyno & HP TUNERS Software required us to free air calibrate the 02 sensor.
The Wideband 02 was over $500 bucks to replace....handle with care.
After free air calibration I screwed the shop dyno wideband 02 in.
A good question is how do you know if a Wideband 02 sensor is truly reading correct or Not ?
On an Engineering & Electronics level.
The Racer Mechanic Level where we are all here on Grumpys daily.
You paid about 100 times too much, need shop around!
Buy a good data acquisition system along with a good set of spark plugs with help with detonation.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
$100,000 Dollar All wheel drive capable chassis dyno Mustang.
Measure to 2000 Hp.
Known to be one of the Best in the world.
Only IRL Indy Car Racing has better.
How do you know your Wideband and software is better Rick ?