TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

I plan on tomorrow going back and removing the screws, then silver solder the baffles in place. If
have the right size pop rivet and might do that also.

Today I finally got the first piece of the timing cover on. I'm hopeful, but not completely confident
that I can make the oil pan seal where I had to pull it loose back about 2 inches. I cleaned and
cleaned at least 15-20 times using a scraper and pushing it back into the joint on the oil pan rail.
Then I pushed the Black RTV into place.

Before getting started with applying the RTV, I made sure I had every bolt and every tool needed
to complete the task. Didn't want any delay while I looked for something. Made sure that I had RTV
in the corner where the pan and timing cover come together.

FP27_TimingCoverInstall_00351.jpg
FP27_CompCamsTimingCover_00447.jpg
FP27_CompCamsTimingCover_00448.jpg
 
as usual I love the picture detail & quality, could you post a link to purchase a duplicate too the two piece timing cover you posted in the pictures?
In my experience, the black rtv works ok,
but the high heat gray or copper gasket sealant has always worked a bit better
gasketse2.jpg

I prefer this for most of the jobs where silicone type gasket sealants get used like intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets

gasketse1.jpg

gasketse1.png

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sealants-and-threads.805/#post-71928
 
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Keep going Rick.

All the guys at work Like Black RTV.

I keep a Tube of Ultra Grey RTV in my Toolbox.

At Home I pretty much use The High Temp Ultra Copper Exclusive now.
Really like.
Grumpy turned me onto it 2 years back.
The Glob of Ultra Copper I put on the trash garbage can lid 2 years ago is still there.
100 F down to -25 F temps. Rained on. Never came off.
Can not pull it off either.
 
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...m-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-4/
82180.jpg
Notice that this new one says MAXIMUM OIL RESISTANCE.

Here is their OPTIMUM formula https://www.permatex.com/products/g...t-makers/permatex-optimum-black-gasket-maker/
27037-PX-OPTIMUM-BLACK.jpg

Specially formulated for high flexibility and maximum oil resistance.

  • High Flex: assemblies where dissimilar metals meet
  • Maximum Oil Resistance
  • Temp. Range: -65°F to 500°F
  • Sensor-safe, Low Odor, Non-corrosive
  • Extra Nozzle
OPTIMUM BLACK combines maximum oil resistance with high flexibility. Today, we see components changing and unlike materials meeting (plastic/steel, aluminum/steel, etc.), all with different rates of expansion and contraction. In addition, with technology advancing, regulations and requirements tightening, we see thinner metals, fewer fasteners, and wider spread bolt patterns. The strength and flexibility of OPTIMUM BLACK handle the changes and added stresses that exist between today’s lightweight, high performance, and premium component assemblies. It is sensor safe, low odor, and non-corrosive with resistance to oil, shop fluids, and vibration.

However, Ultra Grey says Outstanding oil resistance and joint movement tolerance. Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...igid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-2/

82194.jpg


But this one https://www.permatex.com/products/g...makers/permatex-ultra-synthetic-gasket-maker/
82135.jpg
says designed specifically for resistance to unique synthetic motor oil chemical properties. Prevents leak paths commonly associated with synthetic motor oils. Recommended for close tolerances and high performance parts. Temperatures up to 500° F Intermittent. Import/Domestic compatible.
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, oil pumps, intake manifold end seals, and timing gear covers.


I think I will give the Ultra Synthetic a try when I redo my oil pan gasket because I use synthetic oil, and their MAX GEAR OIL RESISTANT formula was the ONLY sealant that ever got my rear differential to seal and stay sealed.

Whichever you choose Rick, I have my fingers crossed for you for NO LEAKS.
 
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truthfully all three work if the surfaces were cleaned and de-greased prior to the sealants application,
of the sealant you select, so I doubt you,ll have any issues,
given a choice, Id have selected the high temp copper or as a back-up the high temp gray,
but like I stated I doubt any of the three would fail to do the job.
the key is proper surface, prep, de- greasing and cleaning, prior to the sealant application, and not over tightening the bolts.
 
With the new Comp Cams timing cover I needed more clearance around the edge to have the
needed clearance. I used newspaper as a grid to help me scribe an arc on the right and left sides
and be symmetrical. A lot of trial and error, but very doable. After that it was just some cutting
and grinding to get the needed clearance. Some primer, color and clear ..... back in business.

FP28_MotorMountModification_00442.jpg
FP28_MotorMountModification_00445.jpg
 
Its damn nice to see your both thinking ahead, while observing,and being aware of what your looking at.
far better that most of the guys I've dealt with over the last five decades.
and that your able to think up related and functional solutions,
to the issues you find you are confronted with,
AND
YOU GET 500 EXTRA BONUS POINTS,
FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHY AND POSTING RELATED SKILLS

engine building is about 75% technology and science and 10% art, and 15% skill gained through experience,over time.
doing it successfully mandates the person involved, in the process, can accurately observe, think, and recognize problems,
and if required, stop and think up solutions.

yes it involves knowing how components are intended to function and accurate precision measurement and access to some specific tools and a skilled well equiped machine shop you can trust, is a mandatory factor and skill set.
so many guys seem to be under the absurd impression that any and all solutions,
to any and all problems,
invariably involve, throwing away some component,
and installing some new out of the box part,
instead of acting logically and actually measuring,
thinking and potentially custom clearancing or at least reading the instructions,
and as most experienced engine builders will tell you ,
almost nothing you can buy fits and functions correctly in out-of-the-box, condition
,too near its true potential.after its ,
carefully, inspected, and correctly clearanced, and fitted.
 
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There is something alive under her shirt!
And it could be deadly for some of us OLD FOLKS !

AND it's coming for you in your dreams !!! I can speak from experience (just last night), that's the best place. If you
are lucky, then the dream might last a couple of hours, beats the hell out of reality of 30-60 seconds !!!

Ok, it's time to shut that wiggle things down. If you didn't get to see, there is always hope for the future when I bring
it back.
 
Wow ..... will that get me a 2 week vacation on a private island ???
NO. Use it to buy some better tools to fabricate with.......... welder, grinders, sanders, milling/drilling machine, etc.
You are doing fine with what you have, but some jobs would be so much easier with the proper equipment.
 
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