Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Alot better Rick.
Should hold up.
Should hold up.
TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
Got my water pump back from C&B Pump Rebuilders in OKC. They charged $40 for the rebuild.
I will prep the bottom of the pump and paint with Por-15 if I have enough left over to cover the
bare metal.
Next was to check the cam timing cover to water pump clearance. I did my checking WITHOUT a
pump gasket (between pump & block) to give me a small margin of safety.
I had to grind the bolt heads down until the highest point now is the raised center of the cover.
With the timing cover in place, I bolted the pump on and checked the clearance with some newspaper.
The paper slide out with NO drag on it ...... perfect!!!
I have the thicker 0.1 inch gaskets, but i won't need them. This would have put the water pump pulley
out of alignment with the crank and alternator pulleys, not a big deal, but one less thing to think about.
I will prep the bottom of the pump and paint with Por-15 if I have enough left over to cover the
bare metal.
Next was to check the cam timing cover to water pump clearance. I did my checking WITHOUT a
pump gasket (between pump & block) to give me a small margin of safety.
I had to grind the bolt heads down until the highest point now is the raised center of the cover.
With the timing cover in place, I bolted the pump on and checked the clearance with some newspaper.
The paper slide out with NO drag on it ...... perfect!!!
I have the thicker 0.1 inch gaskets, but i won't need them. This would have put the water pump pulley
out of alignment with the crank and alternator pulleys, not a big deal, but one less thing to think about.
I did way back on page 125, but it can't hurt to post it again.
$265
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-310
$265
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-310
btw the multi part timing chain covers that allow a faster cam change are available at a not much increased price for some 1966-1990 BBC applications
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-312/overview/
and sbc
$265
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-310
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-312/overview/
and sbc
$265
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-310
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Looking good again Rick. I'm hoping for NO LEAKS.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
The pic posted above is not the final install, but below is AND I hope your are right !!! Some times you
have to make a decision and go with it !!! It not like there is a cross member under my pan.
So Comp Cams spend another .03 cents to make another pointer.....jess!! After I spend over $250 for their
timing cover. Their pointer was 5/16 inch (0.313") away from my balancer (Fluidampr 62260D 6-1/4" OD
Gold Harmonic Damper), creating a situation for a significant parallax error. Buy a top notch timing cover
and it's terrible at it's sub-functions. Sure Wish I had a Formula 1 Budget !!! My pointer has .025 inches
of clearance. The hard part was estimating how much the bend would take out of the total distance.
So I had to make a pointer, looked at the materials I had and decided to make it from some 1/8
aluminum flat bar.
I put the crank setting at TDC just before I took the Moroso Degree Wheel off, but it was hard to
tell if I was able to install the balancer without disturbing TDC. So I went back with the piston
stop and verifying TDC with balancer installed. When it checked out, installed the new ARP
balancer bolt with RED 262 Loctite. It took 6-8 times cleaning the threads of both the bolt and
crank. Just another 30 minutes, but it's just another XXX minutes everytime I do something ....
and I Know What Everyone Is Saying ...why does it take him SOOO long to get anything done.
Ok, but I think it will not leave me on the side of the road, 3 hours from help.
There are several things that are not talked about, but the pics are in this post !!!
Then why not polish the CompCams cover, the 1st part was already installed, but I did take a another 60 minutes
to polish the outer part of the cover. Now it's far from a nice piece piece of polishing, but from 5 feet it doesn't
look too bad. Besides it's pretty much behind the water pump. Applied SharkHide to both the cover and pointer.
I have several more pics, but that pretty much covers what I did.
.
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Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Everything does look better clean and polished on the T Rick.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Nice job Rick. Here's what I do for a timing pointer (depending upon what cover I'm using).
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/#post-49812
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/#post-49812
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
I like your pointer Rick. Keep it.
I made the one above from a long metric stainless screw.
I drill & tap the timing cover for the appropriate size thread, and use red Loctite.
I made the one above from a long metric stainless screw.
I drill & tap the timing cover for the appropriate size thread, and use red Loctite.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
The pointer you made Mike is what Pontiac used idential 1955-1963 on thier early V8's.
On my 1959 389 engine.
On my 1959 389 engine.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Correct. For supercharged engines.
busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
Yeah, wouldn’t that be a added safeguard?
I took two days of vacation to work on the TBucket engine. As you might expect I had a glitch
when I wanted to run a thread chaser thru all the threaded holes. I think after the machine
shop did their cleaning thing, it made some threads more susceptible to galling. I sure am glad
I found the problem before installing the head. Much easier to fix off the car.
On the passenger side head exhaust ports, cylinders 2 and 8 had problems, 8 being
the worse.
I located a 3/8-16 HeliCoil Kit at O’Reilly’s. I already had the 25/64 inch drill bit that is not
included in the kit. Depending on what instructions I read, they differed on whether to use
Red Loctite. When it came time to install the HeliCoil, I used Red Loctite.
Since you don't want the insert to be too close to the top, I drilled the #2 hole just a
little deeper. I needed another 1/2 turn on the insert, to ensure that when I tightened
the header down it did not pull top thread of the insert out.
when I wanted to run a thread chaser thru all the threaded holes. I think after the machine
shop did their cleaning thing, it made some threads more susceptible to galling. I sure am glad
I found the problem before installing the head. Much easier to fix off the car.
On the passenger side head exhaust ports, cylinders 2 and 8 had problems, 8 being
the worse.
I located a 3/8-16 HeliCoil Kit at O’Reilly’s. I already had the 25/64 inch drill bit that is not
included in the kit. Depending on what instructions I read, they differed on whether to use
Red Loctite. When it came time to install the HeliCoil, I used Red Loctite.
Since you don't want the insert to be too close to the top, I drilled the #2 hole just a
little deeper. I needed another 1/2 turn on the insert, to ensure that when I tightened
the header down it did not pull top thread of the insert out.
on aluminum head's its almost alway's best to use studs to secure headers when you can,
as a stud has the threads full length engaged and very low stress , and significantly more surface area spreading the load,
than a bolt will ever allow,don,t forget too use anti-seize on the stud threads
shop around, the cost of the studs are not as high if you shop carefully, try a local bolt supply or hardware store.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/header-gaskets.1045/page-2#post-55418
https://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Exhaust-Header-Studs/744890/10002/-1
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11118322;jsessionid=GFJnzZ+7+LoV4LCjDOCC8Gb5.b9408a77-0eb9-3dd2-aa63-3c743b855037?r=~|categoryl1:"609389 Fleet 9and Automotive"|~ ~|categoryl2:"609999 Tire 9and Wheel End Products"|~ ~|categoryl3:"609867 Double End Studs"|~
I would strongly suggest BOTH stainless bolts studs and the use of ANTI SEIZE on the threads
as a stud has the threads full length engaged and very low stress , and significantly more surface area spreading the load,
than a bolt will ever allow,don,t forget too use anti-seize on the stud threads
shop around, the cost of the studs are not as high if you shop carefully, try a local bolt supply or hardware store.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/header-gaskets.1045/page-2#post-55418
https://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Exhaust-Header-Studs/744890/10002/-1
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11118322;jsessionid=GFJnzZ+7+LoV4LCjDOCC8Gb5.b9408a77-0eb9-3dd2-aa63-3c743b855037?r=~|categoryl1:"609389 Fleet 9and Automotive"|~ ~|categoryl2:"609999 Tire 9and Wheel End Products"|~ ~|categoryl3:"609867 Double End Studs"|~
I would strongly suggest BOTH stainless bolts studs and the use of ANTI SEIZE on the threads
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