TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Strictly Attitude said:
Always check my stands twice when working on my cars.
Click to expand...
But do you check the handles twice? It's been on those stand all winter long and I've been all over and
under the car. Just took the right sideways shake I guess.

Luckily I didn't have a foot under the wheel, being under the exhaust wouldn't have hurt me even if
it fell all the way to the ground. Just be a matter of cleaning up the brown spot on the carpet thou.

Should have it running and driving this week. Thanks for reading SA!
 
That has happened to me a few times also Rick.
Its Very Expensive but Snap On makes the Best Jackstands.
Every Big Diesel shop I have worked that is what is used.
12 ton Snap On Jackstands.
They have been known to fail those ratchet pawls in Lesser stands....Most are made in China & have been for over 20 years.
Semi comes down while underneath your going to die.
 
Tuning time again soon Rick.
Should go alot easier this time for you.
Be able to nail it down in 1 - 2 - 3 Weekends.
Good Times .
 
Indycars said:
With the new Comp Cams timing cover I needed more clearance around the edge to have the
needed clearance. I used newspaper as a grid to help me scribe an arc on the right and left sides
and be symmetrical. A lot of trial and error, but very doable. After that it was just some cutting
and grinding to get the needed clearance. Some primer, color and clear ..... back in business.

View attachment 9639
View attachment 9640
Click to expand...
I just can’t believe you cut up that fine piece of craftsmanship. Work my tail off to get him a good piece, what does he do, he takes a jigsaw to it! Gees, buy them books, send them to school, what do they do, they shoot spitwads at the teacher’s cleavage!
 
Indycars said:
This just happened 30 minutes ago with my legs under the exhaust !!!

The jack stand didn't fail, it must have only been engaged about 1/2 way on one tooth. I was pulling
the rear suspension bolt at the front under the body and yanking on it to get the bolt out. When it did
give way it went all the way to the bottom, instead of the next tooth down.
Click to expand...

Man that must have got your pulse up !!!!!
 
Well it's all back together, but I have a problem. The engine will NOT stay running, it dies if I am not
pumping the throttle very vigorously. As soon as I stop pumping it dies. It seems to be running off
the accelerator pump. At first it seemed like my old problem with the distributor module, so I put in
my cheap distributor to test with. There was no change.

Fuel pressure is set a 5 psi.

Next I took the carburetor off to check out and clean the internal passages. On the primary side I
removed all the brass orifices and used compressed air to blow thru the passages. When I got the
secondary side and removed the bowl I thought I had found the problem when I spotted the cap on
the PCV port was cracked. I repaired that by tapping the port with 5/16-24 fine thread and put the
Allen bolt in with Permatex Ultra Silicone Sealer.

The problem was better, but still would just barely run under 3000 RPM. I kinda got the timing set at
around 38 degrees total with the vacuum connected. Just something to get me in the ball park for now.

Watch the video and you will notice a high pitch whistle that sounds like a vacuum leak to me. The
carburetor was never touched while it was off during the repair for the bent valve. If you go Full Screen
on the video, you should be able to see the fuel flowing from the primary nozzles.

What do you guys think???


FP03_CarburetorPCVConnection_00545.jpg
FP03_CarburetorPCVConnection_00546.jpg
FP03_CarburetorPCVConnection_00551.jpg
 
They don't stick up very far, maybe .075 inches (see previous page), hardly above the gasket. I can also see them
thru the holes that line up with the manifold.
 
Indycars said:
Well it's all back together, but I have a problem. The engine will NOT stay running, it dies if I am not
pumping the throttle very vigorously. As soon as I stop pumping it dies. It seems to be running off
the accelerator pump. At first it seemed like my old problem with the distributor module, so I put in
my cheap distributor to test with. There was no change.

Fuel pressure is set a 5 psi.

Next I took the carburetor off to check out and clean the internal passages. On the primary side I
removed all the brass orifices and used compressed air to blow thru the passages. When I got the
secondary side and removed the bowl I thought I had found the problem when I spotted the cap on
the PCV port was cracked. I repaired that by tapping the port with 5/16-24 fine thread and put the
Allen bolt in with Permatex Ultra Silicone Sealer.

The problem was better, but still would just barely run under 3000 RPM. I kinda got the timing set at
around 38 degrees total with the vacuum connected. Just something to get me in the ball park for now.

Watch the video and you will notice a high pitch whistle that sounds like a vacuum leak to me. The
carburetor was never touched while it was off during the repair for the bent valve. If you go Full Screen
on the video, you should be able to see the fuel flowing from the primary nozzles.

What do you guys think???


View attachment 9831
View attachment 9832
View attachment 9833
Click to expand...
I hear it Rick.
Sounds like a vacuum leak.

A big puff of Fuel standoff shot out the Holley Carb on startup.
 
I spray around intake gaskets with WD40 to find leaks. Ether will find a way to go into air horn when spraying.
 
T-Test said:
I spray around intake gaskets with WD40 to find leaks.
Click to expand...
I'm going to run a compression test first, since I'm already setup. I'm not ready to jump in and change the intake manifold
gaskets, I went to great pains cleaning 15-20 times, getting the sealer just the right thickness on the rails front and back.
Grumpy says its a quick and easy task, but it's an all day job for me with my OCD.

Charging the battery with my trickle charger at 4 amps before the compression test.

But something like that is on my mind, what should I expect with WD40, will it rev up some if there
is a vacuum leak?

I just tried another carburetor that has been on the shelf for 30 years. I did spray carb cleaner with the
red tube stuck into the air bleeds and blew it out with air. Filled the bowls thru the vent up to the site plug
and made sure the pump worked. Since my fuel lines coming in will not connect, I filled the bowls again
thru the vent up to the site plug. It should run long enough to see a difference if the carburetor is the
problem.

No difference to even worse, therefore that's why I'm getting ready to do a compression test. It back fires
thru the carburetor during many of the different tests, wondering if I have a intake valve staying open. I
noticed and so did Brian that that fuel cloud above the carburetor in the video just as the engine starts.

FP04_CarburetorIsDifferentTest_00552.jpg
 
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You have to be careful Rick, but the CLEAN way of testing for a vacuum leak is with an UNLIT propane torch.
The leak will suck the propane gas in and the engine will smooth out. Nothing liquid sprayed on your engine.

So you are not using PCV, or are you connecting it somewhere else?

Rick, within the last 2 days, I just read on another site about connecting a gauge to your dipstick tube to test for an intake manifold leak.
I will see if I can find it again.

Do you have your stud girdles installed yet? Any interference issues?
Are they up high enough on the studs as to not interfere with the rockers?
The girdles should be the only real difference between this time and last.

Were your heads surfaced when this latest valve job was done?
That might account for your intake not fully seating, IF that's the problem.
 
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