TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Maniacmechanic1 said:
Do You still have your Boroscope Tool Rick ?
Remove the Demon Carb.
Look down the intake ports .
See if a gasket is sticking in it.
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention the borescope, it's been charging for the last 30 minutes so I can take a look.
The carburetor is already off getting ready to look with the borescope.
 
It's gotta be something stupid simple Rick. Basically, nothing changed from previous setup.
Any chance you were 1 tooth off with the timing set? I doubt it.
 
IT JUST KEEP GETTING WORSE!!!

It seems running the engine 3000 RPM + has burnt the trans fluid and maybe the all the trans
friction disks. Remember above I said it puked trans fluid, well you are looking at what it is now
and what it should look like. It smells burnt also.

What else can go wrong??? Maybe I should just go inside before the engine blow up.

FP40_TransFluidBurnt_00553.jpg

FP40_TransFluidNew_00556.jpg

Loves302Chevy said:
It's gotta be something stupid simple Rick. Basically, nothing changed from previous setup.
Click to expand...

Yes it's becoming obvious that I did something wrong!!!
 
Indycars said:
IT JUST KEEP GETTING WORSE!!!

It seems running the engine 3000 RPM + has burnt the trans fluid and maybe the all the trans
friction disks. Remember above I said it puked trans fluid, well you are looking at what it is now
and what it should look like. It smells burnt also.

What else can go wrong??? Maybe I should just go inside before the engine blow up.

View attachment 9848

View attachment 9849



Yes it's becoming obvious that I did something wrong!!!
Click to expand...
My God.
I go outside to smoke a Cigarette.
Man Rick
 
Indycars said:
IT JUST KEEP GETTING WORSE!!!

It seems running the engine 3000 RPM + has burnt the trans fluid and maybe the all the trans
friction disks. Remember above I said it puked trans fluid, well you are looking at what it is now
and what it should look like. It smells burnt also.

What else can go wrong??? Maybe I should just go inside before the engine blow up.

View attachment 9848

View attachment 9849

Yes it's becoming obvious that I did something wrong!!!
Click to expand...

I feel for you Rick. What you are going through with your T-Bucket reads like EVERYTHING I do.
Take all the time necessary, buy good parts, pay attention to the details, make everything "perfect" -
and still you can't get the payoff. IT SUCKS.

You could unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate, push it into the transmission so that there is a gap between them,
find a way to secure the torque converter in place, and continue with the engine problem.
 
I was thinking the same Rick .
Unbolt 200R4 torque converter from the Flexplate.
You may have been fighting a transmission issue.
Severe engine drag pull down from an issue with the transmission.
 
I guess if I was the friend I should be I would be over there helping. Two heads are better than one even if one of them is bald! Lol
 
JohnHancock said:
I guess if I was the friend I should be I would be over there helping. Two heads are better than one even if one of them is bald! Lol
Click to expand...
Trans Cooler line restriction pinched shut or the Trans cooler is plugged up.
Or the Forward Clutch plates are locked welded together.
Just random thoughts of mine John.
 
Indycars said:
Intake Manifold Port Inspection

Click to expand...
I see no issues Rick .

Looking at transmission problem I believe.
Pulling the Dart SHP 400 Down hard..

Say go Turbo 400...that is what I tell them on Digital Corvette lately.
But the T is custom setup for the 200R4 you built for it.
 
It's doubtful that your rocker adjustment is too tight (hanging valves open) because your compression test checks out.
Plus we all know that Rick knows how to adjust the valves.
Run the engine without the torque converter connected. See what happens.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
It's doubtful that your rocker adjustment is too tight (hanging valves open) because your compression test checks out. Plus we all know that Rick knows how to adjust the valves.
Click to expand...

I adjusted them in static condition at zero lash plus 1/2 turn, then at some point previously
I went thru all the adjustments and backed off another 1/4 turn , so final is zero plus 1/4 turn.
BTW, my original adjustments were done ONE cylinder at a time, so I rotated the crank and
at EVERY 90° I set the next cylinder in this order 1-8-4-3-6-5-3-2.

I've checked at both ends of SP wires to make sure they are right.

Not sure what the TC would to do with my problem.
 
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