Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Ok.
John & Me both have to play Hookey from work Likewise at times.
Get our own stuff done Rick.
Just have to do It.
TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)
- Thread starter Indycars
- Start date
John & Me both have to play Hookey from work Likewise at times.
Get our own stuff done Rick.
Just have to do It.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
The Transmission Fluid is Cooked Baked Burnt in the 200R4 also Grumpy.
Something let go inside bad.
Something let go inside bad.
I will certainly be looking at that. I will have to make some decisions about just how far do
I go. I would have liked to see how the trans performed with a fluid change before going all
the way into a full rebuild. Will know more when I get it out and see what it looks like inside
the pan. Of the fluid I caught in a drain in the pan, it did not have any metal.
RICK??? I don,t remember off hand ,
did you install a separate trans fluid cooler with an electric fan,
too keep trans fluid cool,and a trans fluid temp gauge on the t-bucket?
did you install a separate trans fluid cooler with an electric fan,
too keep trans fluid cool,and a trans fluid temp gauge on the t-bucket?
I was recently asked if there was any benefit to adding transmission fluid additives to transmission fluid,
getting back too the original intent on the thread, I think adding a well designed transmission fluid cooler ,
transmission fluid like engine oil tends to degrade and accumulate micro crud that accelerated wear,
theres no additives you can add that will do as much good as,simply replacing the old worn transmission fluid,
and replacing the transmission filter occasionally.
and changing out the transmission filter and trans fluid too a good synthetic based fluid ,every 70K miles or so,
and use of a separate electrically fan cooled fluid cooling heat exchanger that will keep the fluid temps under 170F ,
will do more for most automatic transmissions long term durability than any additives will, do to help extend the service life of any existing high mileage and possibly over stressed and over heated transmission fluid.
measure very carefully youll need to mount the transmission cooler in a location that allows clearance for both the cooler and its supply lines and in a location with easy access to outside air flow so the heated air can rapidly be replaced with cooler outside air, for effective heat reduction to the fluid to effectively take place.
ID suggest no smaller than AN#8 line (1/2") size and a 24000 lb weight rated cooler if you have the room to mount one on a serious race application, with a high stall speed torque converter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15900/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-45908/overview/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...info-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/#post-912
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13182/overview/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/replacing-trans-fluid.10749/#post-46958
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ans-cooler-on-a-c4-corvette.10514/#post-44478
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...fo-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/#post-34937
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/hot-trans-smell.7704/#post-26227
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/transmission-fluid-filters.4910/#post-17143
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flushing-a-transmission.5302/#post-15712
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Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
I swear by Stand Alone Massive Transmission Coolers now Grumpy.
Never use an intergrated Radiator cooler ever again.
Just Cooks the ATF.
I don't care what others say.
Massive stanf alone Trans Cooler By Hayden a must have.
Or that Moroso Drag Race Trans cooler I put on my 63 Pontiac Gp.
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Just saw this video Rick. Port alignment doesn't get any better than yours.
Yes I have a cooler installed with 1/2 inch lines and -8 AN fittings, but no fan. My biggest problem is
on the highway running 70 mph, not sure how much the fan would help there. But it certainly wouldn't
hurt either. Some duct work would be helpful to direct the air into the cooler.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Heatsink style be Better On the T I think Rick.
Moroso Race Trans cooler I put on the 63 Pontiac Gp.
Mine is Double Heat Sink.
Unbelievable how good it works.
Neve see ATF temps over 110 F.
Touch the braided lines and just warm to the touch.
They make A single Heatsink trans cooler Moroso also.
More compact.
Perfect I think on the T because its space limited.
yeah adding an electric fan, that flows a good bit of air too that nice clean trans cooler install in the posted pictures,
would certainly help, most guys either tie the fan in so when the engine runs the fan runs, some (very few guys bother,) too add a dash on/off switch or thermal control sensor.
(if you do Id set it to kick on at about 135-145F you really want too keep trans fluid under 165F
now this is something where a couple hours spent in a salvage yard looking around could generally save you 30%-80% on cost, a late model wreck,
some tools and a measuring tape, and some card board and duct tape to mock up the required sheet metal ducting,
should provide most of the components required, very cheaply
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-choose-an-electric-fan-in-4-easy-steps.7774/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-up-electric-fans-correctly.7150/
would certainly help, most guys either tie the fan in so when the engine runs the fan runs, some (very few guys bother,) too add a dash on/off switch or thermal control sensor.
(if you do Id set it to kick on at about 135-145F you really want too keep trans fluid under 165F
now this is something where a couple hours spent in a salvage yard looking around could generally save you 30%-80% on cost, a late model wreck,
some tools and a measuring tape, and some card board and duct tape to mock up the required sheet metal ducting,
should provide most of the components required, very cheaply
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-choose-an-electric-fan-in-4-easy-steps.7774/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-up-electric-fans-correctly.7150/
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Hey thanks for those kind words, glad you enjoyed the read.
Great Big Thanks to John (JohnHancock) for coming over last night and helping get the trans out !!!
With the trans out, it was very clear why the torque converter TC would not go back into the crank and
mate up with the flexplate.
How critical is the snouts dimensions and concentricity. Can I use a cartridge roll and and smooth out
the edges until it fits into the back of the crank???
.
.
With the trans out, it was very clear why the torque converter TC would not go back into the crank and
mate up with the flexplate.
How critical is the snouts dimensions and concentricity. Can I use a cartridge roll and and smooth out
the edges until it fits into the back of the crank???
.
.
yeah a big flat , high quality fine cut,
metal file
judiciously used to smooth and remove the burr, and some sparingly applied, moly grease
should remove the burr and facilitate the easy insertion of the converter pilot,
don,t get carried away remove the minimum required material,
remove too much and youll get leaks and vibration issues
post 2762 was correct
metal file
judiciously used to smooth and remove the burr, and some sparingly applied, moly grease
should remove the burr and facilitate the easy insertion of the converter pilot,
don,t get carried away remove the minimum required material,
remove too much and youll get leaks and vibration issues
post 2762 was correct
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I found the actual dimensions for the TC. The link has a lot more info than the pic, but I'm concerned with
the snout at this time. At the bottom of the link is some very useful info shown below.
http://non-stoptransmission.com/en/info-converters.php
Runout - runout should be less than 0,25 mm (0,010 inch).
Balance - should be checked with the turbine in at least three positions. This insures that the converter will
not be internally out of balance. Overall balance should be held within 10 grams.
Internal Dimensional Standards:
Fit of pilot bushing - 0,10 mm-0,20 mm (0,004 inch - 0,008 inch) typical.
the snout at this time. At the bottom of the link is some very useful info shown below.
http://non-stoptransmission.com/en/info-converters.php
Runout - runout should be less than 0,25 mm (0,010 inch).
Balance - should be checked with the turbine in at least three positions. This insures that the converter will
not be internally out of balance. Overall balance should be held within 10 grams.
Internal Dimensional Standards:
Fit of pilot bushing - 0,10 mm-0,20 mm (0,004 inch - 0,008 inch) typical.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
That should never happen Rick.
Something is wrong elsewhere.
Look at the Stator support shaft bushings.
Turbine shaft goes through it.
Drop the 200R4 pan.
Take a look.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
I have seen the converter snout snap off clean a few times in High torque applications.
Big Blocks usually.
Pontiac 455.
Chevy 454.
Big Blocks usually.
Pontiac 455.
Chevy 454.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
It makes Torque and Hp Rick.
Never argued about that with the T.
Built before Drag Racing Came back.
Really unfair to make you do it.
Never argued about that with the T.
Built before Drag Racing Came back.
Really unfair to make you do it.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Yes Rick.
Known to spin out on 700R4 & 4L60E.
Not sure if exact same stator shaft was used on 200R4 or not.
87 Corvette I bought a brand New Sonnax Stator support shaft.
Was like $80 bucks in 2010.
1999 Tahoe 4L60E Recent I reused.
Looked Ok.
Said a Prayer.
Lol.