TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

When the torque converter is installed properly, it should be able to move far enough back into the transmission to dis engage from the crank and flex plate. Something caused it to not be able to do so, meaning the splits of the T/C or the front pump bushing came out to stop it. JMTCW
 
When the torque converter is installed properly, it should be able to move far enough back into the transmission to dis engage from the crank and flex plate. Something caused it to not be able to do so, meaning the splits of the T/C or the front pump bushing came out to stop it. JMTCW
I tested the TC in the pump and it went all the way in with it's own weight. But that was a
good thought.

FP04_TCinPump_00573.jpg

Everything seems to look OK inside the trans.

FP04_InsidePan_00568.jpg


The end I measured during assembly was .037 inches.

FP04_StatorAndTurbineShaftEndPlay_00572.jpg
FP04_ValveBody_00569.jpg
 
looks like the magnets in the trans pan caught the fine metallic debris as they were designed too, and the trans itself appears to be in good shape so far
 
The recess in the back of the crank measured 1.702 with snap gauges and the same dial caliper that measured 1.702 inches OD on the TC snout.

I put some molly on the snout and did a test fit of the TC into the crank and it went in without at any problem.

I have the pan cleaned and bolted back on. Didn't forget the filter this time .....yeah !!!

Any Bellhousing bolts loose ?
Nope, they were actual hard to break loose.

The trans was just fine except for 3 seconds, so it hard to believe that something major happened in that
short time. I'm going to put it back together like it is with new fluid and filter. I think it cooked the fluid
when I had it running for 15 minutes at 3500 RPM. The clutches were just along for the ride and were not
heated by friction, therefore I am hoping that they will be fine. It's not that hard to pull again if needed.
 
The recess in the back of the crank measured 1.702 with snap gauges and the same dial caliper that measured 1.702 inches OD on the TC snout.

I put some molly on the snout and did a test fit of the TC into the crank and it went in without at any problem.

I have the pan cleaned and bolted back on. Didn't forget the filter this time .....yeah !!!


Nope, they were actual hard to break loose.

The trans was just fine except for 3 seconds, so it hard to believe that something major happened in that
short time. I'm going to put it back together like it is with new fluid and filter. I think it cooked the fluid
when I had it running for 15 minutes at 3500 RPM. The clutches were just along for the ride and were not
heated by friction, therefore I am hoping that they will be fine. It's not that hard to pull again if needed.
I am not sure I heard you right Rick ?
The Engine was Revving at 3500 rpm for 15 minutes Non Stop ! ?

No Electric Fan can keep up .
Takes a Mechanical Fan.
The Kind Grumpy Hates.
 
If you have a Trans shop nearby Have the torque converter tested checked.
GM Had a special torque converter end play checking tool made by Kent Moore.
Hard to find.
You Tube guys maybe have another method homemade.
 
What about draining the old fluid out of the torque converter?
How exactly would you do that? Drill a hole, drain, and weld shut?
If so, I myself would drill & tap for a 1/8" pipe plug and install with red Loctite.
 
index.php


Rick, there is something in this picture bothering me.
I can't tell what you are using for motor mounts (rubber, poly, or solid), but your transmission is able to move around a little bit because of those 2 rubber "washers". But your transmission cooler and hard lines are mounted rigid. Maybe you don't have a problem, but I see the potential for your lines to fatigue and crack. And if it does happen, you know it will be at the worst possible time. Do you think you should also put some rubber washers where your trans cooler brackets bolt to the frame?
 
Love302Chevy,

Did some reading about drilling the TC. Where to drill is the problem. With a lockup TC, it's even
more critical where you drill and not hit something important. If the trans performs right, then I
can do a flush thru the cooler lines. Also considering adding a external filter that would be light
years ahead of that filter in the pan. Will have to see if I can find room to mount it.

I see your point about the cooler being rigid. What you can't see is the AN fitting on all 4 ends can
swivel and the lines are long enough they should take any twist in stride. Now you could certainly be
right. If I have some rubber with right dimensions, it would be the smart thing to do and add some
flex to the cooler.

Right now I'm focused on getting the damn thing running so I don't miss anymore of this summer!
 
No Electric Fan can keep up .
Takes a Mechanical Fan.
The Kind Grumpy Hates.
you have that wrong, a properly designed and installed, mechanical clutch fan

shrouders.jpg

flx-5555_xl.jpg

24-29b_7_1black.jpg

with a matched shroud,
is in my opinion one of the better options for cooling a cars engine.
but I fully suggest a large surface area aluminum radiator, a separate trans fluid cooler be used in conjunction with an oil cooler for engine oil, in performance applications, a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan
the shroud definitely helps cooling efficiency, SIGNIFICANTLY,if you don,t have one shop carefully and buy one , if your bucks down visit a salvage yard , measure carefully and buy one used they are commonly under $30
modify it as required to fit
rads1.jpg


OIL PAN & OIL COOLER
11-120.jpg

p2185.jpg


TRANSMISSION fluid COOLER and oil cooler
12318.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-mostly-over-looked-component.2756/#post-7161

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
 
Last edited:
No Electric Fan can keep up .
Takes a Mechanical Fan.
The Kind Grumpy Hates.
you have that wrong, a properly designed and installed, mechanical clutch fan

shrouders.jpg

flx-5555_xl.jpg

24-29b_7_1black.jpg

with a matched shroud,
is in my opinion one of the better options for cooling a cars engine.
but I fully suggest a large surface area aluminum radiator, a separate trans fluid cooler be used in conjunction with an oil cooler for engine oil, in performance applications, a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan
the shroud definitely helps cooling efficiency, SIGNIFICANTLY,if you don,t have one shop carefully and buy one , if your bucks down visit a salvage yard , measure carefully and buy one used they are commonly under $30
modify it as required to fit
rads1.jpg


OIL PAN & OIL COOLER
11-120.jpg

p2185.jpg


TRANSMISSION fluid COOLER and oil cooler
12318.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-mostly-over-looked-component.2756/#post-7161
Never look right on Ricks T.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Love302Chevy,

Did some reading about drilling the TC. Where to drill is the problem. With a lockup TC, it's even
more critical where you drill and not hit something important. If the trans performs right, then I
can do a flush thru the cooler lines. Also considering adding a external filter that would be light
years ahead of that filter in the pan. Will have to see if I can find room to mount it.

I see your point about the cooler being rigid. What you can't see is the AN fitting on all 4 ends can
swivel and the lines are long enough they should take any twist in stride. Now you could certainly be
right. If I have some rubber with right dimensions, it would be the smart thing to do and add some
flex to the cooler.

Right now I'm focused on getting the damn thing running so I don't miss anymore of this summer!
They talk about drilling a hole in the Torque converter in Ron Sessions Turbo 400 book I have.
I do not know where that Overdrive piston and clutch plate is at exact on 200R4 - 700R4 - 4L60e torque converter either.
 
you have that wrong, a properly designed and installed, mechanical clutch fan

shrouders.jpg

flx-5555_xl.jpg

24-29b_7_1black.jpg

with a matched shroud,
is in my opinion one of the better options for cooling a cars engine.
but I fully suggest a large surface area aluminum radiator, a separate trans fluid cooler be used in conjunction with an oil cooler for engine oil, in performance applications, a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan
the shroud definitely helps cooling efficiency, SIGNIFICANTLY,if you don,t have one shop carefully and buy one , if your bucks down visit a salvage yard , measure carefully and buy one used they are commonly under $30
modify it as required to fit
rads1.jpg


OIL PAN & OIL COOLER
11-120.jpg

p2185.jpg


TRANSMISSION fluid COOLER and oil cooler
12318.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-mostly-over-looked-component.2756/#post-7161

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
I still want to build an 50 MM Ammo Can side wing Oil pan.
Think its Very Kool.
Do it at Eds garage.
He has a real nice water cooled Miller TIG.
 
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