TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

yeah I also get a long "honey do this list" and a lack of funding that slows repairs all the time
 
Got around to installing the Harland Sharp (G1100) stud girdles yesterday.

Initially I put the stud girdles on so that they were above the shoulder on the adjusting nuts. Then I put
to the top of the valve cover on with the oil baffle touching the girdle, then pushed it down until the top
was seated. This left the girdle just slightly above the shoulder. From there I tapped it with a plastic
hammer until it was just below the shoulder, giving me about 1/8 inch between the girdle and oil baffle.

Before setting the valve lash I tightened all four girdle bolts until it was getting difficult to turn the
adjusting nuts. You can see this in the video of me setting the lash on cylinder #4. After setting the valve
lash I torqued the the four bolts to 30 ft/lbs.

My aluminum plate to block the oil splash off the rocker still fit just under the new stud girdles. I was
surprised there was not a problem. It seemed with all the extra aluminum material it made it harder to
hear the clicking of the lifters when the lash was opened up until there was a clearance between the rocker
and valve stem.
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FP01_GridleAboveNut_00815.jpg

FP01_GridleBelowNut_00816.jpg

FP01_AluminumOilBlock_00819.jpg

FP01_ViewOverall_00822.jpg
 
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Rick thats obviously, very VERY impressive photo skills to back-up the related info!
I'm surprised the fabricated, oil slash guard and rocker stud girdle ,
both fit with room for the rockers to move through the full arc, of valve train movement
without something binding and the rocker valve cover lid still seals
 
Grumpy said:
I'm surprised the fabricated, oil slash guard and rocker stud girdle ,
both fit with room for the rockers to move through the full arc, of valve train movement
without something binding and the rocker valve cover lid still seals
Click to expand...
The splash guard has always fit since I JB Welded some flat washers to space it up slightly. Therefore
as long as the girdle goes over the splash guard, then all is good. But yaw, I was surprised also that
everything fit.

BTW, did you notice the fuel leak in the video. I have since tightened the fuel line connections. I thought
surely someone would call me out on that one.
 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-30400700&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-30400701&autoview=sku

its very common to find you'll gain a couple horsepower with the addition of a rocker stud girdle employed,
as youll have both more precise valve train control and less deflection, Ive seen guys instantly gain an extra 150 rpm-200 rpm,
before they started feeling valve float or loss of valve train control and its certainly less stress on the cylinder head casting and rocker studs.
the one thing ID suggest is that before you buy any rocker stud girdle you ask questions, many cylinder head designs use non-standard rocker stud spacing.



girdle9.jpg


IMG_2071.jpg

tfs-30400701_w.jpg

its not horsepower, its the stress on the valve train, that makes a rocker stud girdle and its increased rigidity useful,
20024s.jpg



P1010018-2.jpg


 
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Indycars said:
BTW, did you notice the fuel leak in the video. I have since tightened the fuel line connections. I thought
surely someone would call me out on that one.
Click to expand...
Tightening the connection did not fix the fuel leak. I wondered when I tightened the connection because
it really was not loose. Bought new steel tubing and replaced the section of 3/8 inch tubing that goes from
the primary carburetor bowl to the main 1/2 inch line.

The seam must of been faulty and started separating causing just enough gap that tightening would not
solve. That tubing has been there for 6 years before it failed on the seam.

To be clear the pictures are of the same piece of tubing, just opposite ends.

FP01_TubingSeam_00824.jpg

FP01_TubingSeam_00825.jpg

.
 
great pictures, lots of times a light touch with a counter sink blade, clears up flare surface irregularity's

Stanley-6-Way-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver.jpg



ryobi-countersink-bits-a10cs82-64_1000.jpg
 
Why when I read up on fuel line it was strongly advised against hard lines for fuel. If an accident happens more likely to rupture also.
 
Indycars said:
Tightening the connection did not fix the fuel leak. I wondered when I tightened the connection because
it really was not loose. Bought new steel tubing and replaced the section of 3/8 inch tubing that goes from
the primary carburetor bowl to the main 1/2 inch line.

The seam must of been faulty and started separating causing just enough gap that tightening would not
solve. That tubing has been there for 6 years before it failed on the seam.

To be clear the pictures are of the same piece of tubing, just opposite ends.

View attachment 10715

View attachment 10716

.
Click to expand...
Thermal cycling and engine vibrations over several years.
You can buy D.O.M. Drawn over mandrel tubing. Seamless.
Have to special order online.
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Why when I read up on fuel line it was strongly advised against hard lines for fuel. If an accident happens more likely to rupture also.
Click to expand...
Yes.
Hard lines are dangerous.
Many like Rick Prefer the look.

I think Braided stainless steel line is still the best.
Earls and Aeroquip my picks in Teflon lined if money is there to buy.

Fragolia Ok.
 
Rick let me drive the T Bucket today, and we were out on a deserted road, he told me to stop and do a hard launch. Holee Molee, I loaded the converter 2600 and launched tires broke loose and it fish tailed a little and I backed off. "Damn Mick, frighten shit outa me!!!"
 
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