the 496 BBC is basically the BBC version of the 350 SBC, being stroked to 383,
in a SBC, you bore the block .030 and stroke the standard 350 from 3.48" to 3.75"
on the BBC you bore the 427n or 454 block .060 and stroke it an additional ...1/4 or 1/2 inch from the stock 427s 3.76" 0r 454s 4.0" stroke, standard bore on the 454 is 4.25 and if you just stroke the standard bore block you get a 489 displacement
the 496 (4.310 bore)(.060 over) and 4.25 stroke (4.25 stroker)vs the stock 4.0" will drop into some blocks but most require minor clearance work.
btw the 6.385" rod combo with the larger counterweights is prefered over the stock 6.135" rod version due to ballance and clearancing issues, counterweights clearing the piston skirts, and having less machine work to ballance in many cases, don,t forget the oil pan usually needs to be checked or modified for clearance, with some rods
http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.385
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevy_rotating.html
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/ScatCrank07.pdf
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71_232
http://chevy.off-road.com/chevy/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=275108
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article073/A-P1.htm
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0703_big_block_chevy_engine_build/index.html
yes you CAN build a 496 stroker with the shorter 6.135 stock rod length, but the slightly longer 6.385" connecting rods are much prefered
http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.135
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.135
BUT! its generally a better idea to use the slightly longer 6.385 rods simply because they leave more clearance for the cranks counter weights, under the piston skirts and allow a lighter /shorter piston, plus (AND THIS CAN BE EXPENSIVE)the shorter rods limiting the dia. of the counter weigts can REQUIRE the use of mallory metal to add weight to the counter weights durring the ballancing, which gets expensive FAST, in fact the cost of a set of good forged rods will generally be a minor concideration in the total engine build costs, and when you figure the extra cost to ballance the assembly and the current rods could be sold, I doubt the true final cost of a new set of connecting rods will be a significant deal
http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/big%20block/BBC%20rods.html
http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/big%20block/BBC%20cranks.html
http://www.beckracingengines.com/prostreet496.html
http://www.strokermotor.com/DESCatalog/DES_Internet_Catalog.pdf
if your willing to build a RACING ONLY high compression 496, that will require higher octane fuel, you can easilly make very impressive power levels with a decent roller cam and good heads, but look over that beck racing combo, its impressive for the compression and could be used on the street in a lighter car with the correct rear gear and trans combo
heres some info from a differant thread that fits here
the very first step would be to buy a few books and read them BEFORE deciding on your course of actuion
because knowing ALL your options and your goals is mandatory to getting good results
you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, yeah I KNOW, STARTING BUY BUYING A FEW PARTS IS MORE FUN!, BUT KNOWING EXACTLY WHICH PARTS AND WHY YOU SELLECTED THEM IS SMARTER
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1...1234339-0571324
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
[image]http://images.amazon.com/images/P/1557883572.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg[/image]
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
heres more bbc info, but don,t let the guys make you think only oval port heads work well! it totally depends on your combo,s rpm range,displacement,gearing,weight,cam timeing,etc
http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval
http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html
http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html
general big block info!
http://www.amotion.com/cbb.html
http://roadsters.com/bbc/
http://www.teufert.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm
http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECP/Chevy30.html
http://www.mortec.com/location.htm
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/crank.html
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93650/
big blocks like more compression, bigger carbs and a slightly larger cam than small blocks if thats what your used to building btw
http://www.camaros.net/racing/BBCombo.html
in a SBC, you bore the block .030 and stroke the standard 350 from 3.48" to 3.75"
on the BBC you bore the 427n or 454 block .060 and stroke it an additional ...1/4 or 1/2 inch from the stock 427s 3.76" 0r 454s 4.0" stroke, standard bore on the 454 is 4.25 and if you just stroke the standard bore block you get a 489 displacement
the 496 (4.310 bore)(.060 over) and 4.25 stroke (4.25 stroker)vs the stock 4.0" will drop into some blocks but most require minor clearance work.
btw the 6.385" rod combo with the larger counterweights is prefered over the stock 6.135" rod version due to ballance and clearancing issues, counterweights clearing the piston skirts, and having less machine work to ballance in many cases, don,t forget the oil pan usually needs to be checked or modified for clearance, with some rods
http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.385
http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevy_rotating.html
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/ScatCrank07.pdf
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71_232
http://chevy.off-road.com/chevy/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=275108
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article073/A-P1.htm
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0703_big_block_chevy_engine_build/index.html
yes you CAN build a 496 stroker with the shorter 6.135 stock rod length, but the slightly longer 6.385" connecting rods are much prefered
http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.135
http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.135
BUT! its generally a better idea to use the slightly longer 6.385 rods simply because they leave more clearance for the cranks counter weights, under the piston skirts and allow a lighter /shorter piston, plus (AND THIS CAN BE EXPENSIVE)the shorter rods limiting the dia. of the counter weigts can REQUIRE the use of mallory metal to add weight to the counter weights durring the ballancing, which gets expensive FAST, in fact the cost of a set of good forged rods will generally be a minor concideration in the total engine build costs, and when you figure the extra cost to ballance the assembly and the current rods could be sold, I doubt the true final cost of a new set of connecting rods will be a significant deal
http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/big%20block/BBC%20rods.html
http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/big%20block/BBC%20cranks.html
http://www.beckracingengines.com/prostreet496.html
http://www.strokermotor.com/DESCatalog/DES_Internet_Catalog.pdf
if your willing to build a RACING ONLY high compression 496, that will require higher octane fuel, you can easilly make very impressive power levels with a decent roller cam and good heads, but look over that beck racing combo, its impressive for the compression and could be used on the street in a lighter car with the correct rear gear and trans combo
heres some info from a differant thread that fits here
the very first step would be to buy a few books and read them BEFORE deciding on your course of actuion
because knowing ALL your options and your goals is mandatory to getting good results
you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, yeah I KNOW, STARTING BUY BUYING A FEW PARTS IS MORE FUN!, BUT KNOWING EXACTLY WHICH PARTS AND WHY YOU SELLECTED THEM IS SMARTER
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1...1234339-0571324
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
[image]http://images.amazon.com/images/P/1557883572.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg[/image]
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
heres more bbc info, but don,t let the guys make you think only oval port heads work well! it totally depends on your combo,s rpm range,displacement,gearing,weight,cam timeing,etc
http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval
http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html
http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html
general big block info!
http://www.amotion.com/cbb.html
http://roadsters.com/bbc/
http://www.teufert.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm
http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECP/Chevy30.html
http://www.mortec.com/location.htm
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/crank.html
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93650/
big blocks like more compression, bigger carbs and a slightly larger cam than small blocks if thats what your used to building btw
http://www.camaros.net/racing/BBCombo.html