the 496 stroker 454 BBC COMBO

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
the 496 BBC is basically the BBC version of the 350 SBC, being stroked to 383,
in a SBC, you bore the block .030 and stroke the standard 350 from 3.48" to 3.75"
on the BBC you bore the 427n or 454 block .060 and stroke it an additional ...1/4 or 1/2 inch from the stock 427s 3.76" 0r 454s 4.0" stroke, standard bore on the 454 is 4.25 and if you just stroke the standard bore block you get a 489 displacement

the 496 (4.310 bore)(.060 over) and 4.25 stroke (4.25 stroker)vs the stock 4.0" will drop into some blocks but most require minor clearance work.
btw the 6.385" rod combo with the larger counterweights is prefered over the stock 6.135" rod version due to ballance and clearancing issues, counterweights clearing the piston skirts, and having less machine work to ballance in many cases, don,t forget the oil pan usually needs to be checked or modified for clearance, with some rods


http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.385

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevy_rotating.html

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/PDFs/ScatCrank07.pdf

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=71_232

http://chevy.off-road.com/chevy/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=275108

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article073/A-P1.htm


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0703_big_block_chevy_engine_build/index.html

yes you CAN build a 496 stroker with the shorter 6.135 stock rod length, but the slightly longer 6.385" connecting rods are much prefered
http://kb-silvolite.com/forged.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.135

http://kb-silvolite.com/performance.php?action=search&mfg=CHEVY&EngSize=489&RodLen=6.135



BUT! its generally a better idea to use the slightly longer 6.385 rods simply because they leave more clearance for the cranks counter weights, under the piston skirts and allow a lighter /shorter piston, plus (AND THIS CAN BE EXPENSIVE)the shorter rods limiting the dia. of the counter weigts can REQUIRE the use of mallory metal to add weight to the counter weights durring the ballancing, which gets expensive FAST, in fact the cost of a set of good forged rods will generally be a minor concideration in the total engine build costs, and when you figure the extra cost to ballance the assembly and the current rods could be sold, I doubt the true final cost of a new set of connecting rods will be a significant deal

http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/big%20block/BBC%20rods.html

http://www.eaglerod.com/products/Chevy/big%20block/BBC%20cranks.html


http://www.beckracingengines.com/prostreet496.html

http://www.strokermotor.com/DESCatalog/DES_Internet_Catalog.pdf

if your willing to build a RACING ONLY high compression 496, that will require higher octane fuel, you can easilly make very impressive power levels with a decent roller cam and good heads, but look over that beck racing combo, its impressive for the compression and could be used on the street in a lighter car with the correct rear gear and trans combo

heres some info from a differant thread that fits here
the very first step would be to buy a few books and read them BEFORE deciding on your course of actuion


because knowing ALL your options and your goals is mandatory to getting good results
you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal, yeah I KNOW, STARTING BUY BUYING A FEW PARTS IS MORE FUN!, BUT KNOWING EXACTLY WHICH PARTS AND WHY YOU SELLECTED THEM IS SMARTER
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1...1234339-0571324
1557882169.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
0912656042.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
0895861755.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
1884089208.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
[image]http://images.amazon.com/images/P/1557883572.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg[/image]
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/det...nce&s=books
0760302030.01._PE_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg



heres more bbc info, but don,t let the guys make you think only oval port heads work well! it totally depends on your combo,s rpm range,displacement,gearing,weight,cam timeing,etc
http://www.idavette.net/hib/vette_bbfh.htm


http://roadsters.com/bbc/#prep
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#bore
http://roadsters.com/bbc/#oval
http://www.chevelles.com/racing/BBCombo.html


http://www.nastyz28.com/bbcmenu.html
general big block info!
http://www.amotion.com/cbb.html

http://roadsters.com/bbc/
http://www.teufert.net/bbchevy/bbchevy.htm

http://www.racingengines.com/public/sales/wrldprd1.htm
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/IEC/IECP/Chevy30.html
http://www.mortec.com/location.htm
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/454engine/
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/crank.html
http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93650/
big blocks like more compression, bigger carbs and a slightly larger cam than small blocks if thats what your used to building btw

http://www.camaros.net/racing/BBCombo.html
 
almost any 427 or 454 block can be used but the 4 bolt main GEN IV passenger block with the STANDARD 9.8" deck height in good condition will be a reasonable choice, the GEN V and GEN VI are not as MOD FRIENDLY (COST WISE)and theres a few parts interchange issues that while they can be worked around are best avoided, so the first choice is a 1967-1990 427-454 block from most cars or light trucks, motor homes ETC.

a correctly built 496 uses a 1/4 longer than stock 6.385 length rods with 7/16" bolts and larger counter weights to match the longer rods and higher pin height
you can,t use the stock crank or pistons to build a 496 stroker, yes theres kits available that allow the use of the stock 6.135" rods but they are significantly weaker than the aftermarket rods and require more clearancing on the crank/piston skirt area

http://www.rpmmachine.com/454-496-cast-chevy-stroker-bb.shtml

http://www.dougherbert.com/chevybbraceenginekit-p-25735.html

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevy_rotating.html

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=277_281

do yourself a huge favor and buy a matched stroker kit from a single source,
which includes an INTERNALLY BALLANCED COMBO OF
crank,rods,pistons,rings,bearings,damper,flexplate and a matching baffled high volume oil pan and oil pump with pick-up and sellect a combo that matches the heads youll use and allows the correct compression ratio for the cam, durration and rear gearing youll use


read

http://www.dougherbert.com/dhp496chevybbstroker600hp-p-25850.html
 
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