The Cat Is Back But With Issues

Thank you! Once again, you’re the man, great trouble shooting!

One at a time. I haven’t tested the kick down function yet, later today after I visit my local Car Quest store.

So looks like carb has to come off and play with the float to 9/32”

So regarding the TStat water tight seal. How do you keep the TStat centered in the neck when there isn’t any rim recess? Do you apply Aviation Permatex to the manifold - set gasket - place T stat - apply Permatex to the neck then place the neck ?
 
I tested the decibels for the exhaust. 123 in the car, top up, while normal acceleration away from a light.
Giving some thought for a couple resonators to hopefully bring down to 108 decibels. These Super Dynomax VT’s are advertised as quite until you step on the gas.

I’ll get the head number when I go out.

A cam. I think I’ll go for it after I sort out all the little gremlins.
 
The shocks . . . I’m impressed about what you had to say about the springs. I’ve always just replace shocks that are suspected to be old and sat for a number of years. Especially on gas charged shocks. They can leak down, you don’t know. At least with oil filled you see the shocks are bad.

I don’t want econo- replacements. Something for heavier cars, ones with larger diameter pistons/shafts, but they don’t give those measurements in the product descriptions/information so a comparison can be made.

Are those shock numbers you listed, above average performance? Looks like Monroe’s are widely available.
 
All the Thermostats sold today are measured in Millimeter diameters.
Chevy, Pontiac V8, Olds V8, Buick V8, Cadillac 500 V8 classic engines we are sold 54mm Thermostats. None seem to fit exactly in the Pontiac V8 intake manifold Register.
The thing to do is install the Thermostat in the Intake manifold center before eye, no paper gasket installed take the upper T-stat housing with the 3/8"-16 tpi bolts set over without moving the T-stat.
Thermostat and upper housing should have no gaps, should not Rock around any direction hand pressure applied.
Think you have the T-stat centered lift remove the upper housing without disturbing moving the T-stat in the Intake manifold.
Prep your paper T-stat gasket with Permatex Aviation Gasket Cement.
Give it a Generous coating both sides Running dripping off.
Then pick up with your index finger and thumb outer corner of gasket and flip flop it on a clean sheet of paper 4-6 times
Excess Aviation gasket Cement Sealer removed a perfect application on the gasket.
Install.
Torque the Pontiac Thermostat housing down with a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
5 ft/lbs, then 15 ft/lbs. Then 25-30 ft/lbs.
I go to 30 ft/lbs torque.
Must do evenly torquing down or the Aluminum or cast iron upper thermostat housing will crack.
 
I tested the decibels for the exhaust. 123 in the car, top up, while normal acceleration away from a light.
Giving some thought for a couple resonators to hopefully bring down to 108 decibels. These Super Dynomax VT’s are advertised as quite until you step on the gas.

I’ll get the head number when I go out.

A cam. I think I’ll go for it after I sort out all the little gremlins.
All the exhaust systems out there and mufflers are subjective.
Choose Quiet Walker Super Dynomax long case mufflers, they Growl stepping on the gas WOT.
My memory on my old 1973 Lincoln Mark IV 460 With Walker Super Dynomax mufflers about 65 Decibels cruising.
Whisper quiet at idle with a Rumble.
WOT maybe 80 Decibels.

Or use Race Car True mufflers and expect Loud.
 
The shocks . . . I’m impressed about what you had to say about the springs. I’ve always just replace shocks that are suspected to be old and sat for a number of years. Especially on gas charged shocks. They can leak down, you don’t know. At least with oil filled you see the shocks are bad.

I don’t want econo- replacements. Something for heavier cars, ones with larger diameter pistons/shafts, but they don’t give those measurements in the product descriptions/information so a comparison can be made.

Are those shock numbers you listed, above average performance? Looks like Monroe’s are widely available.
Bought Gabriel Gas charged shocks.
Have on the old 1994 Suburban liked them.
Let you know how they work on the 1963 Pontiac Gp soon.
My research came down to Gabriel for me and budget needs today.
 
Still looking for a working AC compressor too.
Had one.
Sold it back in 2011 complete.
Came off of my 1970 Pontiac 455 Bonneville 360 Hp engine.
Cleaned and painted all nice detailed show quality.
Left the Red Harrison Aluminum foil decal intact, that was Mint perfect yet.
GTO Judge owner bought it from me $450 on Ebay.
Was listed for 20 minutes an auction at .99 cents to start.
A few bidded up to $100.00,
Guy used Buy It Now option made it his.
 
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I just got back, left after I wrote the last post.

Got the Permatex Aviation Sealant, small bottle with brush $10. Before, I used Permatex spray gasket (blood Red)

AA only had front shocks, I picked up a set of Monroe OESpectrum with oversized pistons Rated for 1250 lbs ea.
Rears I had to order for Tuesday pickup. Raymonds is the staff mechanic at Peterson’s Museum I talk to him now and then for hard to get parts and some cross reference numbers. I bought the Hurst 2 + 2 interior for a ‘68 GP from him. It’s Red and they needed Black to be PHS correct. They install AC Delco on Anything GM. Repaint as needed.

Junk yard gets $50 to $75 for a useable compressor then I would sent it out to be rebuilt the correct professional way, but people have been grabbing them up.

Tonight’s list: carb float fix
T Stat fix
Install shocks
Grease wheel bearings
Replace Dot 3 brake fluid and bleed
Replace tie rod and sway bar bushings
If I start now I should be done by 9 tonight
 
Well ok, so I ran over, a little over 5 hrs , but I did a few more things not on the list above.
Gave everything under the hood a bath to degrease and ready for some detailing. And I made new hard lines for the fuel coming from the pump to the carb and eliminating the filter installed just inches away from the tank.
 
Everything takes time.
I have to stay offline set the phone down only way to get stuff projects done.
 
I was getting excited seeing these but when I entered all Catalina info all three won’t fit for some reason







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I always forget about looking on eVay for car parts unless a general search shows them on a list
 
All the R12 A/C compressors of past are compatible with R134 A Freon I have found 1st hand.
I never drained flushed the A/C System 20 times like your supposed to with $500 worth of flushing chemicals and a $5000 flushing machine.
I seen as Propaganda to sell crap you dont need.
Left The Mineral oil in the R12 system.
Added 4 ounces of PAG Synthetic oil.
Then evacuated and refilled with R-134A Freon.
You use 80% capacity R-134 Freon of what was called for R-12 Freon Original.
Been doing it this way since 1998 year.
Never had one issue or failure.

R12 Mineral Oil is actually Rare now.
Hard to find.
Pag Oil easy to find.
 
Of all the gasket sealants, how did you ever come up with “Aviation” sealant?
It was he only Gasket Cement sealer allowed by the FAA for Licensed Aircraft Piston powered airplanes.
Also its Aviation Gasoline Fuel resistant.
Been around at least since WW2.

Now they allow LS engines into Small Aircraft .
Junk.
All have China lifters and Camshafts I would not fly on.
They have been crashing dropping out of the skies LS planes.
Also No Dual Bendix Schintilla Magnetos Ignitions.
Dumb Azzess .
 
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