Discussion in 'corvette related misc.' started by DorianL, Nov 22, 2017.
Can't wait until you drive it, looking forward to your thoughts!
Ran it at idle for a few seconds and moved the car a few feet back and forth. It’s easier to move. Some low end came back even with the engine cold.
I listened with an automotive stethoscope and could hear a very slight rhythmic metallic tinking sound. Didn’t quite sound like a lifter. Maybe the ever so slightly warped pushrod is brushing against the slot in the head?
Other than that is sounds good.
I have NO idea why my fuel pump is leaking. Hmmmm. I’ll need a third look. I wonder if by any chance the gasket slid off while I was installing the pump. Hmmmmmmm
We’ll see if setting lash running will clean that up.
set the valves at idle
I strongly suggest the adjustment to the rocker arms pre- load on the lifters be made with the engine running at idle , where you back off the rocker adjustment nut slowly just to the point the rocker clicks, then slowly turn it in just to the point the clicking stops, then add a 1/4 turn pre-load, obviously this can get messy so a tall valve cover with the top cut out helps reduce oil loss and smoke and if you don,t have that a piece of card board about the length of the cylinder head and about 8"-12" tall placed above the lower valve cover lip , below the rockers can help
and before you even try adjusting valve lash at idle , (while the engines running) you really should consider finding a tall valve cover that fits your cylinder heads and modifying it by cutting out a large section of the top surface as adjusting valves while the engines at idle can get messy
Lololol - a troll's comment on YouTube:
You caught yourself a fine whopper with that video !!! He must have a wonderful life.
theres always a few people that think if the try to make others look ignorant,
that by default in proves they are a damn genius....
the truth is in the vast majority of cases the opposite it closer too the truth.
yes a single plane intake is not ideal ,
but Id bet the main reason it was selected was additional hood clearance ,
and weight reduction by the original purchaser.
soaking the lifters won't hurt and may help and the engines oil passages pressurize
and fill any remaining internal volume in the lifters in the first 10-15 seconds
theres an ignore button or option on most web sites for ignorant $%&&*(
and Id bet the more helpful, experienced and informed members would not post similar comments,
until recently you owned and drove a 600 hp car you built , very few people can say that.
that negative attitude,is probably some 16-25 year old troll,
who's holding his breath, and rolling on the carpet, kicking his feet,
in his moms basement,
insanely jealous over you own a c3 corvette, with very little real experience,
who's pissed off that his 13 year old 4 cylinder hondas not 1/2 the car you drive,
probably has never owned a car with an engine hes even had the heads off,
of who gained what minimal info he repeats from reading on the internet,
who has few tools and near zero experience building engines
well? hows the corvette DRIVE!
I’m silly frustrated but I think I’ll only get the opportunity to drive it on Saturday.
I also have all the vacuum lines and switches to fix all vacuum operated accessories. That ought to be fun.
I need a cotter pin for the steering linkage. Too chicken to drive it without that. That and I only get home after dark these days.
That being said, I may have an angle on a free dual plane aluminum manifold. I am looking fw to that.
Right. I spent a lot of time on the corvette. I replaced the ignition key cylinder. Replaced all the vacuum hoses. Engine tuned. Hot valve lash set. 18 inched of vacuum, rock solid.
Vibration aside, Engine is running quite smoothly. Other than a freaking leak from the timing chain cover. Power comes on decently. Just the vibration is distracting. There seems to be slight wobble on the lower pulley; I bet it is from there.
The cool bit is that even though this is a stock cam, it pulls better than the lumpy one that was in there.
THATS not all that surprising,
considering the cam that was replaced had at least one or more,
almost totally worn out , or partly worn out, cam lobe's
Aaaand... as much as I know the suspension is shot, it clearly feels that it can handle much better than that Chevelle
it would do that......
(HANDLE FAR ..FAR! BETTER THAN THE PREVIOUS CHEVELLE)
even with a BIG BLOCK ENGINE. seated,
between the front fenders if the correct, TIRES, sway bars ,shocks and springs are installed.
If its going to be Grand Touring Corvette in Europe I would make it a Big Block Chevy too.
With gas prices in mind there 427-454 be best.
Big Blocks By Chevy, Pontiac, & Olds along with Buick & Cadillac 500 hardly work hard on the streets till you go racing mashing the gas pedal down.
The torque difference is Like Night & Day from a SB or import 4 banger driven.
DORIANL have you made any progress on isolating and, locating the source of that corvettes oil drip?
are you pulling the oil pan , or do you think its the read main seal, front cover oil seal, and are you, replacing the oil pan gasket to solve the oil leak yet?
I am thinking it is the front lip of the oil pan to the timing chain cover; I can literally see oil drops squeezing through ! There seems to be no other leaks.
I will be on temporary duty in the USA for three weeks the week after next. Considering the cold snap here (it is freezing again) I think the fix will have to wait till I get back. I plan to smuggle back in my suitcase:
- a on piece oil pan gasket
- an under-dash vacuum switch
- upper and lower front control arm bushings
- motor and trans mounts
- a borgeson steering box.
I have to be very mindful of the weight, but I think I can get away with that.
If I have to let go of one component it will have to be the fast steering box conversion; it is the heaviest by far. That sucker is also $700. I would be saving a lot on shipping and import taxes if I bring it back in my suitcase.
I'll grab a bar this weekend to see if there is some play in any other components of the front suspension - idler arm, ball joints, tie rods...
This weekend will be reinstalling the wiper assembly. Last weekend I went through the entire vacuum circuit, and I am quite pleased with my work. I replaced all the hoses and a couple of vacuum switches. From what I can tell, from testing, everything seems to be operating properly.
One issue was that the wiper motor was from a later, non-wiper door, model. That was a critical failing. The correct part had a separate power line in that would only be activated once the wiper door was fully opened. That is why (I think) my wipers were crashing into the wiper door an wrecking themselves. I had to replace the wiper arms and transmission. It will be soooooo good to have my wipers fully functional along with the headlights.
I will bet you used the one piece Fel-Pro type of oil pan gasket that says USE NO SEALANTS.
OK, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Look at the SBC timing cover. The part that holds the gasket in place in tack welded on in only about 5 places.
In the past when using the conventional 4 piece oil pan gasket set, the first thing we did was to put some Permatex in that channel, before the front seal went in there. That sealant would also seal any gaps between the front cover and that tack welded on seal holder - NO LEAKS.
Now we use that one piece silicone gasket with no sealer - and have leaks. My bet is the oil is getting in between those 2 metal pieces, bypassing the seal, and has a straight shot at leaking out.
Am I making any sense?
yes thats at least possible, and yes a little bit of sealant spread along the gasket, and especially in the 4 corners and around the crank main cap and oil pan end seals areas,does help
This looks like a darn bargain
the double roller cloyes timing chains tend to last longer before they wear and have excess slack
and they can be used with the stock O.E.M timing chain cover
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