The Force Awakens...

Maniacmechanic1 said:
If you do dont post pictures of it.
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:D:D:D I agree. I may try the sin way, but I’ll have to think about it.

Agreed also regarding the output. This C3 feels grossly underpowered. I will do something about that in time. First I need to get this running while keeping expenses at a minimum.

I’ll visit thé brakes and suspension before doing something about this miserable iron lump.
 
DorianL said:
And of course, the leak is NOT coming from the fuel pump...

It is coming from the front of the block where it is getting blown around all over the place when driving fast making it difficult to pinpoint the exact source.

From what I can tell there is a drop of oil or so forming every few seconds coming from the bottom of the timing chain cover, so on the outside of the blue, one piece gasket. - I am now beginning to suspect a cheap timing chain cover (everything about this engine seems to be done on the cheap) that is not properly radius-welded but spot-welded on the inside. I thought I noticed that at the time it was off and thinking it was weird.

I am debating on whether to drop the pan and reuse the one piece FelPro oil pan gasket but with some silicone sealant - there WAS no leak when I got this car and prior to me changing the cam. I had noticed a lot of RTV at the bottom of the timing chain cover when I initially removed it and thought that was odd too.

I do not like at all that little bit of smoke coming from the headers. It is almost a matter or ride for me - but on the other hand, I do not want to invest too much into this engine.

Tempted to try first RTV and if it really doesn't work - replacing the timing chain cover.

What are your thoughts, Gentlemen?
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Go back and reread this: http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/the-force-awakens.14249/page-10#post-73958

Also, is the short bolt that goes to the fuel pump pushrod in there? That'll give an untraceable leak.
 
MysteriousSmallBlockChevyOilLeak.jpg
 
Loves302Chevy said:
I will bet you used the one piece Fel-Pro type of oil pan gasket that says USE NO SEALANTS.

OK, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Look at the SBC timing cover. The part that holds the gasket in place in tack welded on in only about 5 places.
In the past when using the conventional 4 piece oil pan gasket set, the first thing we did was to put some Permatex in that channel, before the front seal went in there. That sealant would also seal any gaps between the front cover and that tack welded on seal holder - NO LEAKS.
Now we use that one piece silicone gasket with no sealer - and have leaks. My bet is the oil is getting in between those 2 metal pieces, bypassing the seal, and has a straight shot at leaking out.
Am I making any sense?
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You are absa-XXXXXXX-lutely making sense !!!:eek::eek::eek: Spot on !!!!!!!!!! That is exactly what I think is happening.

What I don't understand is why FelPro's instructions say specifically NOT to do that.
 
@Loves302Chevy Does that mean I can go back, clean it up real good and RTV it up with the cover still on???

Black RTV from the bottom of the channel up and cover with one piece FelPro?
 
DorianL said:
@Loves302Chevy Does that mean I can go back, clean it up real good and RTV it up with the cover still on???

Black RTV from the bottom of the channel up and cover with one piece FelPro?
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Try & Find the Red - Orange High Temp RTV By Permatex.
Or the Ultra Grey RTV Silicone.
Both are much better than the Black RTV I think.

Ultra Grey is BMW Euro spec RTV. Should be easy to find in Belgium.

High Temp RTV Red-Orange you will likely have to get from Summit Racing.
 
 
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Maniacmechanic1 said:
Try & Find the Red - Orange High Temp RTV By Permatex.
Or the Ultra Grey RTV Silicone.
Both are much better than the Black RTV I think.

Ultra Grey is BMW Euro spec RTV. Should be easy to find in Belgium.

High Temp RTV Red-Orange you will likely have to get from Summit Racing.
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OK, I will see what I can find. Loctite is available here. Unfortunately Summit will not ship RTV to Europe.
 
DorianL said:
You are absa-XXXXXXX-lutely making sense !!!:eek::eek::eek: Spot on !!!!!!!!!! That is exactly what I think is happening.

What I don't understand is why FelPro's instructions say specifically NOT to do that.
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I used the FelPro 1 piece gasket on my 334 SBC - no sealant like they say - and it leaks.
I think they mean not to use it on the oil pan rails, because then the gasket will slide all over the place.
When I redo mine, it's getting Permatex® Ultra Black® Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker at the front and rear seals.

82180.jpg


And use this stuff on your rear differentials esp with synthetic gear oil and friction modifiers for limited slip. IT WORKS.
Permatex® Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker

81182.jpg
 
Gentlemen: UPDATE

I have an old buddy of mine in town this weekend.

He knows his way around classic GM - has owned and worked on a 1948 Stylemaster, 1965 Buick Wildcat, 1973 Suburban,...

He's actually the fellow that put me on to vintage Detroit Iron in the first place back in the 80s.

We will be to the power of two. THAT makes a huge difference in the effort I am willing to invest and undertake.

...he also has a damper installer and puller !

Soooo, I changed mind. It looks like we are going to replace the timing cover anyway (assuming I can find a quality one here) that will fit a short pump.

If available, would you guys bother with a two piece timing chain cover? I may well do a cam and head swap later this year. This combination runs out of steam at 3000 RPM, or so it feels. If the short block is healthy, I will go that direction.
 
I would it is a royal pain dealing with clipping the corners off on a cheaper one. I mean if it is reasonable cost no brainer!
 
DorianL said:
Gentlemen: UPDATE

I have an old buddy of mine in town this weekend.

He knows his way around classic GM - has owned and worked on a 1948 Stylemaster, 1965 Buick Wildcat, 1973 Suburban,...

He's actually the fellow that put me on to vintage Detroit Iron in the first place back in the 80s.

We will be to the power of two. THAT makes a huge difference in the effort I am willing to invest and undertake.

...he also has a damper installer and puller !

Soooo, I changed mind. It looks like we are going to replace the timing cover anyway (assuming I can find a quality one here) that will fit a short pump.

If available, would you guys bother with a two piece timing chain cover? I may well do a cam and head swap later this year. This combination runs out of steam at 3000 RPM, or so it feels. If the short block is healthy, I will go that direction.
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No Dorien.
Not on this engine.
Its Not the TT Race Supercharged Beast.
 
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