The Force Awakens...

Discussion in 'corvette related misc.' started by DorianL, Nov 22, 2017.

  1. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    The next step was (once the old master cylinder was removed) using the supplied template, plot where the holes for the studs should be and the enlarged center.

    I carefully cleaned the firewall and used a white out pen. That worked fine.

    1A Template.jpg

    And it's smiling at you...
    1A smile.jpg

    The instructions then suggest using a sawzall to enlarge the center hole and shape in to an egg-like form. I found that, as it is glass... hand tools and a drill are sufficient. The four bolt holes need to be enlarged. I found that on my car, under the glass, the top bolt holes were already there in the right position. Good, good ! Enlarging the four bolts required a cobalt bit. The metal is tough !!!
    1A sawzall.jpg

    Be mindful of the matting on the other side of the firewall.

    Remove the push-rod and the brake like switch bracket. Taking these of was easy. Replacing them was a nightmare. I would suggest reinstalling the bracket BEFORE putting the booster on. The clevis pin and retaining clip were not so bad. BTW the bracket and push-rod swap places. No bid deal there. Once installed, the pedal will be lower; so you will have to readjust your brake light switch.
  2. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Pretty !
    1A Booster.jpg

    The kit also came with a vacuum hose and clips. I fortunately had a free barbed port on the back of my carb. The kit included a manifold fitting to split vacuum. I didn't need it.

    The next step was to install the new master cylinder... it was 2300 when I finally managed to get the hydraulic lines (also supplied) installed. As anyone who has worked with these lines and fittings... the angle a has to be just right.
    1A New Booster.jpg
  3. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    The next morning all I had to do was bleed the system and reinstall the driver seat... Yes, it took a while to get over my stubbornness, but it was very helpful to remove it.

    There are two bleeds on top of the new master cylinder - make sure they are tight. I also could not figure out why my pedal was still spongy after bleeding. Well, the rear calipers have TWO bleeds per caliper. In my hubris, I did not read zip-corvette's instructions where they point this out; this was the only step I did not bother reading.

    Hmm, paint on my rotors???
    1A blue.jpg

    Am I pleased with the results??? Hell yes !!!! MUCH better !!!!!!!!!!! It will take some getting use to, tho' ;)
  4. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Incidentally, it now performs better (brake-wise) than the TT which came with power brakes, OE.
  5. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Good stuff by You Dorien.
  6. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Nice quality work Dorian !!!

    What abut the brake lines going to the master cylinder, did they fit without modification? Didn't the MC move forward with the booster behind it now?
  7. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    good job, , and yes painting the brake calipers improves the look measurably.

    Last edited: May 14, 2018
  8. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Thanks gents !!!

    Zip-corvette actually supplied pre-bent hydraulic lines.

    I'll test more this weekend...

    Hmmmm, paint calipers? Body color seems like a good idea ;-)

    I also noticed that there is some slack in the throttle cable. I'll need to sort that out - with the crappy intake, it makes moving off the line even more difficult.
  9. Loves302Chevy

    Loves302Chevy "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

    Um, not to rain on your parade, but you forgot 1 really important step - bench bleeding the new MC.
    And it must be level while doing this. With the upward angle when installed in the car, you can NEVER
    remove all of the air. Your only option now is to re-bleed with the car parked on a hill with the wheels
    chocked so that the MC is level. Either that, or take it back apart.
  10. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    He can bleed the master on the car Mike with a Helper.
    Depress the brake pedal firm to the floor.
    Crack one brake line off the master.
    The helper does not lift at all.
    Shut the line.
    Do it till fluid runs out with no air.
    Repeat on the other master brake line.

    I have fittings with Brake lines pre made up to bleed on the car too for GM.
  11. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Hmmm, there seems to be two bleeder screw on the MC. I'll bet that is what those are for !

    Thanks for flagging this point.
    Last edited: May 15, 2018 at 2:30 AM

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