The Force Awakens...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIjZ6Qucj82wIVh7rACh2-RAhzEAQYASABEgIvVvD_BwE
edl-1487_xl.jpg
 
Picking up this thread again... I am getting back to my shopping list from Summit Racing.

We all agree that there is no evidence to suggest the carburetor is at fault or defective? Buying a new carb would be a waste, correct? My current carb is a used 750CFM with a stock calibration.

The plugs indicate rich at idle. To clean that up: quality plug wires, gap at 0.045 and more initial.

The plugs also indicate leaning out at higher RPM. To clean that up: jet up across the primaries and secondaries.

I am surprised that I need to jet up on a combination with a very mild cam and 882 heads. Are the headers and intake enough to lead to that?

Also I should install a fuel pressure regulator.
 
Picking up this thread again... I am getting back to my shopping list from Summit Racing.

We all agree that there is no evidence to suggest the carburetor is at fault or defective? Buying a new carb would be a waste, correct? My current carb is a used 750CFM with a stock calibration.

The plugs indicate rich at idle. To clean that up: quality plug wires, gap at 0.045 and more initial.

The plugs also indicate leaning out at higher RPM. To clean that up: jet up across the primaries and secondaries.

I am surprised that I need to jet up on a combination with a very mild cam and 882 heads. Are the headers and intake enough to lead to that?

Also I should install a fuel pressure regulator.
A Holley Carburetor has an advantage.
Parts are easier to come by.
We are all familiar with it here.
Pretty much foolproof to Tune it Dorian.
 
A Holley Carburetor has an advantage.
I probably will go down that road at some point. But right now I am being careful and only replacing what really needs to be.

If there is no reason to believe there is a problem with this carb, for the moment, I will work with it.

There might be other more immediate expenses that could take priority.
 
I probably will go down that road at some point. But right now I am being careful and only replacing what really needs to be.

If there is no reason to believe there is a problem with this carb, for the moment, I will work with it.

There might be other more immediate expenses that could take priority.
Yes understand.
Buy the Tuning kit for Eddy carb from Summit or put it on the wish list.

That New Dewitts,Radiator be top of my list to get.
 
Sorry Brian, I’m partial to my Rochester QuadraJets. I just like the basic principle on which they work - a big carb that works like a smaller carb until you need more . . . And then the secondaries are there to answer the demand from the pedal!

I amassed a pretty good collection of complete carbs from the mid 60s to late ‘70s mostly from Chevy and Pontiac with a few big block Olds and Buick’s. About 5 years ago I started organizing QJ parts like all the different chokes, choke pull-offs, all the internals and external linkages, the fuel inlets and the deep threaded inlets. All are NOS, reconditioned/plated and clean originals for the guys that need to pass the sharpest inspectors at the shows.
 
Sorry Brian, I’m partial to my Rochester QuadraJets. I just like the basic principle on which they work - a big carb that works like a smaller carb until you need more . . . And then the secondaries are there to answer the demand from the pedal!

I amassed a pretty good collection of complete carbs from the mid 60s to late ‘70s mostly from Chevy and Pontiac with a few big block Olds and Buick’s. About 5 years ago I started organizing QJ parts like all the different chokes, choke pull-offs, all the internals and external linkages, the fuel inlets and the deep threaded inlets. All are NOS, reconditioned/plated and clean originals for the guys that need to pass the sharpest inspectors at the shows.

I like them too.
Not a good choice for Grumpys because so many different cam profiles are used.
We have absolute no way to predict engine vacuum with a chosen or installed cam.
Tuning metering parts are getting hard to find.
Grumpy and Me can only assume an engine vacuum level from past experiences measured.

With a Race Cam profile only A Pontiac RAIV, SD455, 1970 Olds W30 455, & Buick Stage 1 will give good results.
All High dollar thousands value now.
RAIV & SD455 worth the most.
 
Sooo, after a lot of searching and reading, I found something that might be of interest to the group.

Grumpy mention that I should check the float level with regards to being rich at idle. He also suggested to install a fuel pressure regulator.

The pressure regulator is on my upcoming to-purchase list.

Now, the float levels I am sure were spot on. I was meticulous setting them during my carb rebuild.

However... I have read since that the specific gravity of European fuels, specifically Belgium's Super 95 E-10, differ from fuel in the USA... affecting the float level. The floats are not as buoyant over here.

Hmmmmmm.
 
Sooo, after a lot of searching and reading, I found something that might be of interest to the group.

Grumpy mention that I should check the float level with regards to being rich at idle. He also suggested to install a fuel pressure regulator.

The pressure regulator is on my upcoming to-purchase list.

Now, the float levels I am sure were spot on. I was meticulous setting them during my carb rebuild.

However... I have read since that the specific gravity of European fuels, specifically Belgium's Super 95 E-10, differ from fuel in the USA... affecting the float level. The floats are not as buoyant over here.

Hmmmmmm.
It would be easier to fine Tune fuel level with an adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator.
Just as you want on your wish list.
 
Yes. I agree on the carb calibration kit. All the shops are closed this weekend - that’s the summer in Belgium for you. I had found (called) a couple of places here. One has a fuel pressure regulator in stock. The other has plug wires and probably a calibration kit.

On the other had, I did find in my parts bin a plumbing fittings for the fuel line that I can fit a pressure gauge in.

Today we should find out how much fuel pressure my carb is getting. AFBs do not like more than 4-5 PSI. I think if it is higher than that... we’ll have found at least part of the problem as to why there is popping in the muffs and a rich idle.

I’m feeling confident.

If the fuel pressure is excessive, I may be able to borrow the regulator off the Ghia and test drive.
 
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