The Force Awakens...

About what I thought, but so many times I get surprised. Easier than converting to power steering.
 
Good for testing the choke diaphragm for the carb

This pump will prove handy for the brakes too. One easy project I would do is pump out all the brake fluid you possibly can from the master cylinder and lines and immediately replace with new brake fluid
 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-Vacuum-Pump-Kit-648744/203120693

http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-va ... 39522.html



http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp#

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvp.asp

vacpump1a.jpg


http://www.aaawholesalecompany.com/bem-484410-pk.html
NOTICE THEY COME singly for about $8-$9 each or 12 to a carton and cost about $60 a dozen so get two to 6 buddies to split the cost
medical supplys can be useful bleeding brakes
vacbra.jpg

vacpump.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=93547

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92474

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-Vacuum-Pump-Kit-648744/203120693
powerbuilt-testers-install-kits-648744-c3_1000.jpg

with a few cheap components you can manually bleed the brake fluid, or test carb power valves or carb vacuum settings
 
removing the fuel tank is easily done, on a c3 corvette, just be sure you start the process with a near empty tank,

read links

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/floor-jacks.969/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/you-need-decent-jack-stands.672/



https://68ragtop.wordpress.com/2012/09/24/how-to-replace-the-gas-tank-on-a-1968-c3/


http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...l+327cid+v8,1040870,fuel+&+air,fuel+tank,6268

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-349685-fuel-tank.aspx



http://www.mamotorworks.com/Corvette/subcategory/c3-fuel-tanks

https://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/displaylearnmore.cfm?learnmoreid=241&idlist=99,32,1643,56,55,87,1952,57,1648,1509,78,2098,33,1704,147,5040,3366,2591,145,144,143,4800,241,311,56,147,148,5040,3366,2591,145,144,143,2310,2342,1507,2165,1350,5311,146,243,219,242,4800,5026,241,258,55,1507,2165,1350,243,242,4800,5026,240,241,285,1508,311,2165,1350,p_42600,299,312,2681,3538,311,3099,3293,p_42601,3096,p_42602,p_42603,336,362,1350,361,362,1305&searchdest=/cf/learnmorelist.cfm?subcategoryid=X805&subcategoryid=X805

http://www.zip-corvette.com/68-82-c3/fuel-system/corvette-gas-tank/gas-tank.html
fuelq1.JPG

fuelq2.JPG


It is best to run the tank as low on fuel as possible prior to removing the tank.

having a transmission jack handy helps
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low ... 69685.html
1500tr.jpg

this motor cycle lift can be used as a transmission jack and in my opinion is slightly better built than the 800 lb rated trans jack listed before this

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html


1963-74 Models
c3tankj.gif

Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
Remove the gas cap and the filler neck boot from the top of the tank. Disconnect the drain tube.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely with jackstands.
Remove the spare tire compartment (if applicable), spare tire, and spare tire carrier.
Loosen the U-clamps and separate the exhaust systems at the transmission crossmember. Disconnect the muffler support brackets and slide the exhaust system rearward.
Remove the fuel tank strap bolts and disconnect the gauge unit wiring.
Disconnect the fuel lines and allow the fuel to drain into a clean container.
Unbolt and remove the tank support. Lower the tank, rotating it toward the front of the vehicle to remove it.
Installation is the reverse of the previous steps.
1974line1.gif

1974line2.gif
 
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vacbra.jpg


I made a much larger container from a Planters Peanuts jar. It has a snap-on metal cap with a rubber sealing ring similar to canning jar lids. Oooooh - that would work also. Just add barbed fittings to the lid.
 
Well I dropped the tank. Thanks for the links and steps, Grumpy. It was an easier than expected job. I found a company here that repairs radiators and fuel tanks. I’ll see if they can fix this.

In the meantime, a look around underneath I found this:

D8BD4E59-88D8-4038-A907-067F9724A078.jpeg

But also this:

7434948A-9391-45A7-B37C-7A64FED6F10D.jpeg

B85EFB71-7D39-43B3-9011-825A15ADE8B0.jpeg


:confused::eek::confused::eek:
 
Nonetheless a stunningly piss poor job a previous owner did - no wonder I have so many Eletrical gremlins with this car.

I have a good mind to replace ALL the wiring.
 
the vast majority of car owners have little too, zero desire ,
to learn the correct way to do things related to electrical wiring a car,
most don,t own a decent quality solder gun,
and certainly don,t know how to use and apply solder, acid flux,
a wire stripper,and never use or even know about plastic insulation shrink tubes, but prefer tape!
(and in some cases masking not electrical tape)
and if you don,t kind of expect to run into that occasionally,
you've had better luck than I have)

or any thing approaching what many of us would refer too as skills!
thats a reasonably easy repair,and you would be amazed at how often you,ll find far worse in a car thats well over 46 years old.
I recently had a 1965 GTO in my shop where the previous owner used a screw gun and many dozens of 5/8" drywall screws too fasten the interior rugs to the cars floor ,
the bottom of the car looked like a porcupine!

BTW this may be a great time to consider upgrading to a decent 150-200 amp alternator

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-67293/overview/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-37293-114/overview/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-altenators-work.355/


https://alternatorparts.com/cs144-series-high-output-alternators.html


 
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previous owner used a screw gun and many dozens of 5/8" drywall screws too fasten the interior rugs to the cars floor ,
the bottom of the car looked like a porcupine!

Ummm, that is positively SCARY !!!!!!!
 
Once again, the car seems to be overall in decent shape. There just seems to be 101 small jobs to do to bring it up to its former glory... and I look forward to jobs well done (to quote Edd China. BTW, I like Ant Anstead too)

The first will of course be getting my gas tank professionally fixed. I'll be dropping that off tomorrow.

Beyond that, I figured out what the problem was with the horn: there was a broken contact spring but also a missing insulating spacer. However, before I order that part I need to make sure there no other bits I might need like perhaps replacing the ignition key or connector, etc. It is like a puzzle where you first have to figure out what pieces you need...
 
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