The Force Awakens...

Snooping through the car and glad I pulled the engine.

Discovering many things that need attention. I ran some compressed air through the vacuum reservoir and immediately felt some cracks at the top. That will have to come out and be rebuilt.

I discovered that the bolts of the wiper door were loose... tightening them made a world of a difference. Gave it a more solid feel. I was also able to peer down the drainage areas there... They were clear. However, I shined a light from the inside of the vehicle and found a gap between the cage and the fibreglass firewall :

Webp.net-resizeimage-8.jpg



That will need to be sealed somehow. I also managed to get a closer look at the body mounts.

Webp.net-resizeimage-5.jpg

Webp.net-resizeimage-9.jpg


There is a notch in the clutch... whatever this thing is. Worn, it will need to be replaced to get the slop out. Note to self: check other end to see if there is a problem there too.

Webp.net-resizeimage-3.jpg

I pulled the headlights out to find that one of the headlights down switches was missing. One spring on the assembly was broken. But it is in otherwise good shape. I will rebuild it nonetheless.
There was also a screw missing in the parking light bracket on both sides. This probably led to a rattle in the front grills.

Webp.net-resizeimage-4.jpg
 
while theres little question, the wiring certainly could use a bit of touch-up work
the body looks like its in rather good condition,CONSIDERING its 50 years old
 
Last edited:
All kidding aside, that’s going to be one hell of a smooth and correct 69 Corvette when you are done.
Btw, looks like I hit it square on the head about where water gets in to the birdcage. Oddly, it’s Corvettes and English cars that reveal everything when you backlight places in the dark. I intended to point out the vacuum components for ‘68 and ‘69 are the worst years for weak parts in the vacuum system. Racine Industries made all the vacuum parts for GM and they were bad going in the cars at the factory. Luckily the great labor strike of 1969 put them out of business by late 69 and Morris, a DuPont company took over Corvette plastics until ‘87.
 
A quiet evening.

Might as well quietly restore the interior

DCFB438D-41CD-403D-8750-C1B18D9E6E64.jpeg E2A9015A-B049-4A5C-A1F1-A7C5C93DA683.jpeg 9972671D-3F47-4B1D-97CC-2E0E89A872BA.jpeg

Not perfect, but tons better
 
all the small improvements you make to the cars condition,
add up and make a big difference in the appearance and function.
 
Worked a little bit on the Blue ...Somethingorother (Gotta find a name one days.)

First was the wiper door. I learned something from looking at a buddy’s recent purchase of a 1971... when in good shape wiper doors have a good action. So I decided to disassemble mine and sure enough one bolt was in poor shape.

I managed to carefully drill it out a preserve the threads.

790E5A38-3A9C-4F72-BE47-082BF43B06B3.jpeg 1166B81B-AF75-409A-9BB7-C0167B834D0E.jpeg 5FC3088F-B25C-4A7F-ABDF-AB3B13DB078D.jpeg
 
Working on the tubular control arms. They are generic Chevy. Apparently all you have to do is swap the lower ones from side. That means flipping the cross shaft and the sway bar brackets

A chip in the nylon sleeve
A483947B-C7F8-451F-9F45-D0403968508C.jpeg

Del-a-lum bushings. I always wondered if these were any good. Minor damage from factory

F954B3A8-614B-4238-B87F-7F6C21F180B8.jpeg 6754D072-C1D5-446A-9517-6D053CF28390.jpeg

Less minor are two seniors who think I should go play somewhere else while the study for mid terms.

27E50487-2CF3-4F83-8977-86A3E5363843.jpeg
 
LOL, looks like dad is just being annoying !

Did you buy new control arms, if not they sure look clean?
 
Working on the tubular control arms. They are generic Chevy. Apparently all you have to do is swap the lower ones from side. That means flipping the cross shaft and the sway bar brackets

A chip in the nylon sleeve
View attachment 11295

Del-a-lum bushings. I always wondered if these were any good. Minor damage from factory

View attachment 11292 View attachment 11293

Less minor are two seniors who think I should go play somewhere else while the study for mid terms.

View attachment 11294
Since this a Grand Tour Corvette for ride and comfort Moog Brand OEM replacement bushings may make logical sense.
They should last 20 years.
I think the best compromise of handling comfort is Energy Suspension bushings.
The Black bushings squeak the least.
Sometimes a Real sticky assembly grease is supplied. Like glue on Your skin.
Or you buy a small tub of that sticky white grease.
Made for OEM control arms.

Aftermarket control arms you get what you pay for.
Not worth it me.
Like Street and drag myself.

Delron Teflon Plastic by Dupont.
Got imitations or something ..not sure.
Delron does not crack.
 
LOL, looks like dad is just being annoying !

Did you buy new control arms, if not they sure look clean?
I think they used that exact word: annoying.

These are new control arms that I bought off of an eBay merchant. $270.

Moving that sway bar bracket over to the other side is going to be the next step.

I think I’ll invest in a ball joint tie rod puller and a spring compressor.
 
Since this a Grand Tour Corvette for ride and comfort Moog Brand OEM replacement bushings may make logical sense.
They should last 20 years.
I think the best compromise of handling comfort is Energy Suspension bushings.
The Black bushings squeak the least.
Sometimes a Real sticky assembly grease is supplied. Like glue on Your skin.
Or you buy a small tub of that sticky white grease.
Made for OEM control arms.

Aftermarket control arms you get what you pay for.
Not worth it me.
Like Street and drag myself.

Delron Teflon Plastic by Dupont.
Got imitations or something ..not sure.
Delron does not crack.

Well, this is all experimental. I might love it... I might hate it or anything in between. What I do know is that I want more caster and the stock uppper cross shafts are too flimsy to undergo any machining. These cross shafts are beefy. I plan to slot the uppers by an undetermined amount to move from 2 degrees of caster (C3 Corvette OEM limit) to 5 or 7 degrees.

If I put in that T5 transmission to give me the comfort of overdrive, that defeats the purpose if you have to be super vigilant with floaty tracking.
 
Well, this is all experimental. I might love it... I might hate it or anything in between. What I do know is that I want more caster and the stock uppper cross shafts are too flimsy to undergo any machining. These cross shafts are beefy. I plan to slot the uppers by an undetermined amount to move from 2 degrees of caster (C3 Corvette OEM limit) to 5 or 7 degrees.

If I put in that T5 transmission to give me the comfort of overdrive, that defeats the purpose if you have to be super vigilant with floaty tracking.
You Want a World Class T-5. It will hold up to a moderate Powered Chevy SB V8.
The Muncie 4 is still 4 times stronger in HP & Torque capacity...no Overdrive of course.
 
Soooo. Success and failure.

I was going through the fiber optics. The 69 Corvette had stranded fiber optic cables that channeled light from the front and rear to the shifter console. That way you could see if a bulb was burned out or not.

Some people say it’s gimmicky; I think it’s cool.

However replacing the front and rear harness is $300.

I went through my front harness and found that all were working except for one. The ones that did work did with varying brilliance.

I explored the one that did not work and found that at some point it had been pinched and this was concealed under some electrical tape.

9171402B-B713-40C0-8F90-439F10BFE500.jpeg BFD6D714-2B87-4F7A-ABDD-65D1E112344A.jpeg

I read somewhere that a fellow working on the 1970 corvette assembly line would mend broken fiber optics with a hollowed our electric wire sheath. I tried it and it worked very well. Almost too well; it now outshines the other lights.

C5F53025-17A7-4F72-BA50-848B00F4CF37.jpeg



6665DA66-88F5-4A32-B434-8119D66119BF.jpeg

So now I’m considering replacing the harness with solid core fiber optics, end glow, 2.5 mm core - 3.5 mm outside diameter. I would imagine it will work very well and be muuuuuch cheaper than two new reproduction harness $300 !
 
Back
Top