The Force Awakens...

Discussion in 'corvette related misc.' started by DorianL, Nov 22, 2017.

  1. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Did a test drive, at higher RPM it does seem to be missfiring. Anything above 3000 rpm feels uncomfortable.
     
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    the the tall cast valve covers I fabricated/modified for valve adjustment is taller and has a smaller open area,
    but yes the basic concept of having a valve cover modified to adjust valves at idle works very effectively,
    I bought a used set like these to modify and drilled 8 -2 1/8" diameter round holes centered on the rocker studs (yes the holes overlap)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correctly-adjusting-valves.196/
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2018
  3. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Are you using the push button start still or have you removed it?

    Any chance there are still some wires associated with the push button or key start that need further inspection?
     
  4. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    Yes. I was very pleased with the results of setting the valve lash this way.

    The engine seems to sag in power at 2500 plus rpm. It vibrates as well and shudders.

    On the timing light idle seems fine and up to 2200 rpm the mark looks good. Pushing above 2500 rpm and you can feel the engine doesn’t like it. The timing mark comes and goes and sometimes seems to pop up quite retarded.

    This is an HEI but not GM. Some aftermarket thing with a mechanical tach drive. It looks about new. Cap and rotor look pristine. As do the cables.

    I’m going to:
    - check the gaps
    - check the resistance on the HT leads (as the Brits call them)
    - give direct full battery to the ignition instead of running through the firewall connector. I have a small length (a few inches) of the original wire there... but that was originally for points... I’m wondering if there is some resistance there...

    Beyond that, I suppose it’s the coil or the module.
     
  5. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    I rewirded it to a free IGN spade on the fuse panel. I do here the solenoid snapping every time. Nonetheless, you are right, I’ll try giving an alternate source to see if that changes anything
     
  6. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    I tried to go back to the original key ignition but there’s something wrong with the column. On my to do list: rebuild the steering column.
     
  7. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Does it snaps once or clicks over and over until the key is released?

    If the solenoid clicks every time, then the push button must be good. What's the voltage at the
    starter with the button pushed and the solenoid energized ?
     
  8. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    It clicks every time I push the button.

    I’ll check the voltage tomorrow morning;-)
     
  9. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    If you suspect a worn cam lobe, checking the cams lobe lift with a dial indicator on the valve spring retainer vs the other lobes would certainly provide useful related info.
    knowing vs guessing helps in making decisions wisely
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66830/overview/
    [​IMG]


    https://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

    [​IMG]
    https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=indicator+stand
     
  10. DorianL

    DorianL solid fixture here in the forum Staff Member

    I replaced the wire leading to the ignition with a 12 gauge from the horn relay; fused.

    I also closed all my gaps from 0.050 to 0.040.

    That seems to have dramatically cleaned up the ignition.

    I’ll use the original wire to fire a relay.
     

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