The Force Awakens...

It’s new. New lifters as well.

Any suggestions on how to get the bolt out ? It looks intimidating.

The other ones came out easily. Seemed properly torqued
 
On that broken bolt, Id wire brush it clean, then ID first try, too drop a 3/8" nut on top of the remaining part of the broken bolts stud like remains,
and mig weld the stub to the inside of the nut and, use a wrench too back it out.
if thats not working Id heat it several times with an acetylene torch with a fine blue tip flame and cool it with a 50% 50% mix of MMO and acetone ,
that will soak into the old threads, then center drill and use an easy-out


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...studs-bolts-rusted-in-place.11410/#post-52306

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-of-busted-bolt-repair-info.11095/#post-49451

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-rusted-broken-bolts.807/#post-43181
 
Last edited:
Since it's a Corvette, is there anything under the oil pan? Would it be easy to drop the pan
and check a couple of mains and rod bearings?
 
Working with a buddy...

Removing the radiator and fan shroud was much more straightforward than I expected.

Sid 1.jpg Sid 2.jpg
 
The skirts and cylinders look fine...

It was nice to see a double roller timing chain.

puller.jpg Cylinder 2.jpg Piston skirt.jpg timing chain.jpg
 
The worn lobe... and an Energizer cam 278H

FWIW the date stamped on cam is 1988. Other than the cam lobe(s) there seems little wear since the 1980s?

cam pull.jpg worn lobre.jpg cam grind number.jpg
 
great pictures THANK YOU!

if that cam lasted almost 30 years it was good quality, the wear was more likely , partly due to lack of frequent oil and filter changes, or improper valve adjustment A improperly adjusted lifter without the required valve adjustment clearance can stop rotating on the lobe correctly.
but keep in mind they drastically changed oil formulas when all the manufacturers swapped to roller lifters and for several years and even much of the currently made auto engine oil is not designed for flat tappet cam use, you'll want to be careful what oil you select.
(for an engine that old there's very little sludge so the previous owner obviously did occasionally change the oil.) adding a qt of MMO to the other 5-6 quarts of what ever premium oil you select to use adds extra solvents and detergent additives you might need.
(looks like youll have to spend a bit of time removing two broken off cam timing cover bolts)
index.php

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-wear-articles-you-need-to-read.282/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...il-choices-for-cam-break-in.13602/#post-70237

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/break-in-oil-quality-tested.11145/#post-52501

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lifter-to-increase-oil-flow.11152/#post-49968

lifter1jpg.jpg

camlobec.jpg


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-10013/overview/

Brand:Crane Cams

Manufacturer's Part Number:10013

Part Type:Camshafts

Product Line:Crane Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts

Summit Racing Part Number:CRN-10013

UPC:021174018271

Cam Style:Hydraulic flat tappet

Basic Operating RPM Range:2,000-5,800

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:222

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:222

Duration at 050 inch Lift:222 int./222 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration:278

Advertised Exhaust Duration:278

Advertised Duration:278 int./278 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.467 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.467 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.467 int./0.467 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees):110


Computer-Controlled Compatible:No

Grind Number:278 H10

Valve Springs Required:Yes

Quantity:Sold individually.

Notes:9.5 to 10.75 compression ratio advised.
 
Last edited:
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.467 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.467 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.467 int./0.467 exh.

Hmmm, is it just me or does this cam exceed the lift limits of a stock 882 head?
 
I really doubt it, obviously you can check clearances with a caliper and or a dial indicator but most ... not all, stock heads easily clear .480, and more than a few clear .530 in stock form.
obviously checking the open / closed valve spring height and coil bind and retainer too valve seal clearance helps here

vspr1.jpg


drawsdf.jpg



valvespringinstalled.gif

images

13cal.jpg
image_1450.jpg


checklifter3.jpg


pic6vc.jpg

pic19vc.jpg

pic18vc.jpg

pic20vc.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-in-vs-threaded-rocker-studs.2746/#post-7475

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-in-valve-spring-iinstalled-height.12791/
 
Last edited:
Well, the rest of the story is that there was no broken bolt in the top hole; just a botched attempt at a helicoil. Bottom one was helicoil and a broken bolt. Go figure ! It’s a wonder it didn’t leak from the timing chain cover.

BB279D19-85DC-4C59-9CF1-7486B2EA2CE0.jpeg 9EAB91B0-B77B-4C9C-99F0-1DC7CA3500A1.jpeg B94B9347-84F9-4C68-9BA6-9B70F3DC477B.jpeg

Let’s leave this over here. My new lifters.

9F585AA7-8723-4989-9228-460B482B639D.jpeg
 
I'm glad to see your making progress , and that process will also get you to mentally bond with the car for better or worse, ( kind of like getting married:D:rolleyes:)
 
Winter days are short. Work is in an unheated garage. Buuut, the remaining 8 lifters came in today. Maybe I’ll be able to start buttoning things up this weekend.
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ITQ5D...y=9012039&hvtargid=pla-273265664819&camp=3638

it only gets rather cold here about 1 week a year ,
but I purchased a kerosene heater for the shop years ago,
its effective and not difficult to use and a couple gallons of fuel lasts all day if you were to want to run it that long,
(use mineral spirits as fuel it smells much better)
a few minutes running is enough take the edge out of the low shop temps around here,(usually high 30F at worst) but of course your conditions are a bit more extreme,
so Id have no doubt youll have to keep it running a few minutes

81dTimC1KxL._SL1500_.jpg
 
Your timing set has also seen better days. Replace it.

BTW, using a left-handed drill bit will usually unscrew the broken stud before you even get to use the easy-out, unless the broken stud is rusted in place.

It would also be a good idea to replace the water pump. It's already out.
 
Cleaned and ready to go back on 3337D569-949B-4ECF-B7CA-D66D458E1217.jpeg


Cam installed

9A9A32B4-E647-4B1A-B593-C26206178EEB.jpeg


Lining things up...

694FC82A-ABC4-4F3B-9E82-DEEA4FEB7FD1.jpeg




Hmmmm. Well this would explain the vague steering

D2FAD931-E894-4D91-84A5-5389FEA97E00.jpeg
 
Back
Top