the GOODWRENCH QUEST SERIES/ & similar 350-383 sbc info

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrenc ... rt%201.htm

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/150 ... vy-engine/

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3502.htm

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3503.htm

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3504.htm

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3505.htm

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3506.htm

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0306-chevrolet-406-big-block-torque/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/0506sc-major/

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1206phr-383ci-small-block-chevy/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/76178-chevrolet-ht-383-engine/

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/dyno-video-qmp-builds-500-horse-383-stroker/

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/building-the-little-383-small-block-that-could/

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-c...-block-in-six-easy-steps-hot-rod-magazine.pdf



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3507.htm

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/goodwrench/gm3508.htm

you really..REALLY.. need to read thru this

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... A16-P1.htm

search.php?search_id=active_topics

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html


http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article115/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article040/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article054/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... A27-P1.htm

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article032/A-P1.htm



http://www.sporttruck.com/howto/40619/index.html

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... /A5-P1.htm

THERES A 100 combos and results here
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos2.html

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 5/A-P1.htm



http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/67838_budget_vortec_head_cam_355_build/index.html

http://www.superchevy.com/technical...rs/sucp_0703_stealth_tpi_induction/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/383ci_chevy_small_block_build/index.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0306_chevrolet_406_big_block_torque/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0312_dart_450ci_small_block_engine_build/index.html



read thru these threads and sub links

HERES A COUPLE GOOD Articles (ABOVE) in some cases
they take a stock low potential 350 Chevy small block crate engine and start doing mods to show what does...doesn,t work well ,too increase the potential hp, in others they get into more extensive mods, in some theres significant mods and expences, but keep in mind that you need to set goals and select parts to reach THOSE GOALS, not randomly slap parts together expecting things to work smoothly

its reasonably well done in several stages and shows you a good deal about which components are critical to making big hp numbers


If your designing a street driven engine durability should be a major concern, you can quite easily reach your goal of a responsive easy to drive sbc that produces brisk performance with the correct combo of parts on a sbc, theres no reason you can,t reach or exceed 370-400hp PLUS with a well designed 350-383 built with the correct components.
now that may and probably will require better heads, intake and a cam swap but if selected correctly the drive-ability remains decent.
keep in mind a good deal depends on your rear gear ratio, stall speed, compression ratio,matching the rest of the components selected

read thru this link
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... ewall.html

basics

a well designed 383 will produce on average about , 40hp/40 ft lbs of torque MORE than a very similar 350 built with similar parts

a typical sbc makes about 1.1 ft lb of torque per cubic inch of displacement

your torque curve depends mostly on your engines displacement,compression,head, & intake flow and cam timing

the formula for hp is torque times rpm divided by 5252=hp
a higher torque peak generally increases power


example
400 ft lbs at 3500rpm=267hp
400 ft lbs at 5500rpm=419hp



you'll want to run about 10:1 cpr on the street to maximize performance


heads that flow about 250cfm or more at .500 lift are going to be a huge asset

you'll usually need a 3.54:1-3.73:1 rear gear and a manual transmission or a 2700rpm-3000rpm stall converter to maximize acceleration, with a cam that's designed to maximize power in the 3000rpm-6300rpm band

you'll need a low restriction exhaust and headers


keep in mind its the HEADS, CAM, HEADERS, AND INTAKE selected that produce those gains as the short block is left stock

IF YOUR FAIRLY NEW TO ENGINE BUILDING DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmEngineBook.htm

buy this dvd and these two books

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfe...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231760&sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunick...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231724&sr=1-1

read thru this thread and sub links


your engines power potential is pretty much locked into a close relationship to, not only its displacement but your head flow potential ,cam lift & duration and compression

read these links below, and keep in mind that a 400 cubic inch based engine with almost all the listed parts , used in the 350 in this first link would have produced even more power


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

now read this,... again you'll begin to see , its the heads,cam etc,and the engines ability to move and burn and exhaust its fuel/air mix thru its cylinders not just the displacement alone, thats the key to power

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article031/A-P1.htm

then read these

http://www.trickflow.com/articles/18degree_hp/

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article045/A-P1.htm


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38&start=10

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

you will find these threads useful if you read thru and look thru sub links most people don,t take the time to research and plan their engine builds to match the application, and as a result they tend to think they all want 500-600 plus hp from reading the magazine articles , but the truth is that a responsive engine with massive torque in the useable rpm range make for a far better choice if the cars street driven, now thats not saying you can,t have both impressive horsepower and a great torque curve but just keep in mind every choice is a compromise and if you concentrate on building an engine that works in the rpm band you actually use rather than getting mesmerized by peak hp numbers alone youll have better results.
you'll
also need to keep in mind it does no good to build a killer engine that produces 500 plus hp at 6700 rpm and match it to a rear gear ratio and transmission gearing, and shift points or converter stall speed, that keeps the engine in the 1600 rpm-6000 rpm power range 90% of the time, if your smart your not competing for peak hp bragging rights your trying to build , impressive and instantly responsive torque in the usable rpm band.
Yes I've constantly tried to point out the fact that all the components in any engine, and correctly matching the drive train combos gearing, exhaust flow, intake and cam timing along with the fuel/air ratio and ignition advance curve must match the engines displacement and compression ratio, and the intended rpm and intended operational power range.
so many guy fail to understand that concept and as a result install mis-matched components that significantly restrict the power curve and the effective rpm range.
remember its that available torque at a instantly available rpm and how effectively you can access that torque that will allow you to move the car briskly,
the most common mistakes are not selecting the better available , and high flow rate heads that match the engines displacement and intended rpm range and the cam timing, and over camming the engine or not gearing or using the correct stall speed to match the application, is a sure route to reducing the potential performance, potential.
 
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Re: the GOODWRENCH QUEST SERIES/ & similar 350/383 sbc inf

a list of useful articles on SBC ENGINE builds, mods and performance.

540hp for $4800 bucks

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A-P1.htm

zz4 power play build

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... heads.html

The Devil's 350 Chevy Small-Block

http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/ ... index.html

Ten Times the Torque, Comp Cams, 383 build

http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

401 chevy stroker

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article031/A-P1.htm

60 hp cam upgrade
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

422 HP From A Budget Vortec Head

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

383ci Chevy Small Block - New & Improved!


http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/383c ... index.html


Stealth TPI Induction - L98 Stroker

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/eng ... index.html

560hp 420sbc
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 8/A-P1.htm

FLEET STREET

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article040/A-P1.htm

Dyno Testing The TPI Chevy Small-Block Engine - Torture Test, HPP

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/t ... index.html

How To Boost Your Early C4's Performance - Corvette Fever

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

eight great combos

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article054/A-P1.htm

Dyno Test of SBC, TPI

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7610/dyno.htm"

full scream

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article045/A-P1.htm

Chevrolet 406 Big Block - The Impersonator
Big-Block Torque In A Small-Block Package


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html

TPI Intake Conversion - Unleash the Beast - Hot Rodding

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0 ... index.html

Power Play, L98 Build Up


http://www.corvettemagazine.com/1999/se ... /l98p1.asp

getting serious
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... /A7-P1.htm

L98 Engine Build Up

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2000/ma ... /l98p1.asp

SQUEEZE PLAY


http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... A16-P1.htm

Supertuning the L98: Part 1

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2000/ma ... l981p1.asp

Supertuning the L98: Part 2


http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2000/ma ... l982p1.asp

The Best C4 Performance Mods

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article032/A-P1.htm

447hp vortec 350 for under $4000
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... ewall.html

ZZ520 corvettemagazine.com

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2002/ap ... ance-1.asp

The 350 chevy should have built
http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com/su ... ngine.html

566hp sbc, The Modest Mouse

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... ewall.html


632hp Small-Block Sports New GM Bow Tie Vortec Heads

: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... z1aUbSIoVE
 
Re: the GOODWRENCH QUEST SERIES/ & similar 350 sbc info

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/eng ... index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engi ... index.html

http://www.vsihp.com/library/CleviteEng ... sGuide.pdf

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/350-sbc-383-sbc-1980-malibu.14493/

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2187

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=110

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1489&p=3360&hilit=+books#p3360

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=111

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=989

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1738

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1027
these threads, above and their sub links have many answers, and yes its going to take some time but its well worth the effort if you want a good well thought thru combo

DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR
buy these books, FIRST it will be the best money you ever spent, read them, and you will be miles ahead of the average guy. youll save thousands of dollars and thousands of hours once you've got a good basic understanding of what your trying to do!
a basic build
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1504-350290-crate-engine-project-great-part-1/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1505-350290-crate-engine-part-2/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1507-350290-crate-engine-part-3/

heres a good source for SBC info
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

heres a good source for SBC AND BBC info

http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmEngineBook.htm

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

how to assemble an engine basics on video


these books, have a great deal of sbc related info you'll want to know


HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231793&sr=1-1

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines

http://www.amazon.com/John-Lingenfe...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231760&sr=1-1


SMOKEY YUNICK,S POWER SECRETS

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunick...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1195231724&sr=1-1

theres a ton of info in this threads links and sub links
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38
 
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383 UDHarold cam/Profiler 210 dyno test
"Well, after a long time, the new motor is finally done and was put on the dyno on Friday. Heres the short list of the motor

383 Chevy,
11.1:1 CR
SRP Pro series flat top pistons
Scat 4130 crank
Oliver 6" rods
UD Harold Solid roller... 255/263 @.050 .640"in/exh ..106/102icl
Crower HIPPO lifters
Lunati Roller Rockers- 1.65int/1.6exh
Pro-Filer 210s done by Chad Speier ( 2.08/1.60 "econo" ported")
Holley 300-25 Strip Dominator intake ( gasket matched)
JDR performance carb (820-840cfm) 1.455" venturi x 1.75" baseplate
2" HVH Super Sucker spacer

Keep in mind, this is a pump gas street/strip motor. The dyno test was run on 93 octane. .

588hp @ 6500-6900 (varied by 1-hp(587) through 6900)
514ft/lb @ 5000

I do think there is more in this combination with more tuning, but I was only at the dyno for 3 hours, and made 10 pulls. I am REALLY happy with the results for a pump gas motor with no intake porting or real head porting ( just Chad's "econo" porting).

This was dyno'd on a conservative Stuska dyno, so its not a "happy" dyno by any means.

The test sweep was 4,000 - 7,000 rpm , and was making 489hp @ 5,000 , 525@5500 and 568hp @6,000

Torque was 496@ 4900, 514ft/lb@5000 and stayed over 500 ft/lb until 6,000.

I know Joe Sherman made 615hp with a 383 a few years ago on pump gas, with 195cc AFR's, but I still think this is pretty good for a non-professional like me to build on the cheap.

I'm sure it would also make more with a rippier cam, but Harold told me that this "24 hour" grind cam of his will be gentle on the valve springs and make no less than 575hp.. He was right on the money. I'm not looking to change springs alot, so I will sacrifice a few HP for durability. "
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5364

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5129

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=401

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

a bit of reading would help a great deal, don,t ignore the sub linked info
yes Im well aware that 30% of you guys would rather pluck your own eyes out with a red hot fork than actually read and absorb info, but for those that rather have fast cars and are willing to do some research....the infos available
don,t be a a rush to spend money be sure you understand what your doing and WHY your selecting certain components, because your choices, in components, how well they work together as a system and your skill during the assembly process make a huge difference in your potential results


HERES A DIFFERENT RELATED BUILD




Trick Flow's All-Purpose, 565 Horsepower Small Block

Allow us to make a big giant generalization: building a dedicated drag race engine is pretty cut and dry. Since the aim is to cover a quarter-mile of straight asphalt in the quickest amount of time, you want an engine that makes its power at wide open throttle, all the time.

But build a multi-purpose engine using that formula and you'll be building yourself a dog. When you build an engine that will see street or autocross duty as well as quarter-mile use, you want it to have a broad, flexible power curve, not one that comes alive only when the go pedal is on the floor.

That was the situation faced by Al Noe, head honcho at cylinder head manufacturer Trick Flow Specialties. Al's 1967 Chevy Camaro is a fair-weather daily driver that also spends time on the autocross circuit and the drag strip. The F-body has a 388 cubic inch stroker small block that specs out as follows:

350 four-bolt block bored .060 over
3.75 inch stroke Summit Racing forged crank, 5.7 inch Summit Racing H-beam rods
10.4:1 Wiseco flat top pistons
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy hydraulic roller cam (230°/236° duration @ .050, .510/.520 inch lift)
Trick Flow Super 23™ Street/Strip aluminum heads (72cc chambers milled to 70cc, 195cc intake/72cc exhaust runners, 1.460 inch dual valve springs)
Holley Stealth Ram manifold with 1,000 cfm ACCEL throttle body, DFI Gen7 controller, and owner-fabricated cold air intake
Mallory 81 Series dual-magnetic pickup distributor, ACCEL 300+ digital ignition box

On Trick Flow's Superflow dyno, the 388 made a respectable 484 horsepower at 6,000 rpm and 464 foot-pounds of torque at 4,800 rpm. Those are nice numbers for a dual-use small block…but not enough for Mr. Noe.

The Plan

Al wanted to update the 388 to be more competitive on the autocross circuit while staying as streetable as possible. He came up with three specific goals:

Add approximately 50 to 60 peak horsepower
Ability to rev up to 6,800-7000 rpm to allow autocrossing in second gear (few to no upshifts to third gear)
Reduce low end torque for better low-speed exits from the corners

The basic short block was updated with a Trick Flow Track Max™ hydraulic roller cam (246°/254° duration @ .050, .588 inch lift). The idea of the bigger cam was to build more high-rpm power and bleed off some low-end torque. The Holley/ACCEL EFI system would remain as well (though its limitations would be revealed in testing, as you will soon see).

The big star in the makeover is Trick Flow's newest Gen 1 small block Chevy cylinder head, the Super 23 Race CNC. Here are the specifications:

CNC-ported 230cc intake/78cc exhaust runners
CNC profiled 70cc combustion chambers
2.080/1.600 inch stainless steel valves
1.530 inch dual valve springs rated to .680 inches of valve lift
Assembled with 10 degree locks and titanium retainers, ARP 7/16 inch rocker arm studs, and guideplates

At first glance, the Super 23 Race CNCs look like overkill for the 388. In fact, Trick Flow recommends the heads for engines over 400 cubic inches and pushing 600 horsepower. But remember the plan-more power upstairs, less low-speed torque. The combination of fewer cubic inches, a big cam, and high-flow cylinder heads should meet the criteria quite well.

Test One: Holley Stealth Ram/ACCEL EFI

The 388 was assembled at Trick Flow world headquarters in Tallmadge, Ohio, then strapped to one of the company's Superflow dynos for testing. The engine cranked out 533 horsepower at 6,500 RPM; torque was up by 12 to 476 foot-pounds at 5,200 RPM. Peak power levels shifted upwards by about 500 rpm as well.

Even before the test, Trick Flow engineers knew they were leaving horsepower on the table. The Holley Stealth Ram was restricting airflow-its port openings are shorter than the ports on the Super 23 Race CNC heads. “The height of the (Stealth Ram's) port is limited because of how Holley cast the fuel injector bung into the port," explained Trick Flow's Todd Hodges. “We attempted to port-match the intake manifold to the heads by making the intake's ports as tall as possible, but they still hung down over the cylinder head ports by about 3/16 of an inch. That is not optimal for making maximum power."

Test Two: Edelbrock Super Victor Intake/Holley HP 750 Carburetor

To help the 388 breathe better, Trick Flow replaced the fuel injection with an Edelbrock Super Victor single plane intake and a Holley HP Series 750 cfm carburetor. Designed to build power through 8,500 rpm, the Super Victor's runners extend into the plenum area, increasing the manifold's total volume. That means the Super Victor can handle lots of airflow. Trick Flow port-matched the manifold to the 2.110 x 1.25 inch intake openings on the Super 23 Race CNC cylinder heads.

After completing the intake swap, Trick Flow put the hammer down on the 388. The reward was even more power-565 horsepower at 6,800 rpm, a gain of over 5 percent with a simple induction change. Torque was up a tick to 485 foot-pounds at 5,200 rpm, with a flatter curve overall. Low rpm torque dropped as expected; it was down roughly 18 foot-pounds from 3,500 to 4,000 rpm.

So the 388 works on the dyno-how does it perform in the car? Even with the Holley/ACCEL EFI reinstalled, Al says the engine “pulls like a freight train!" While he hasn't taken the car to the track since the upgrade, Al expects the reborn stroker to shave ETs around 3/10s to a half-second and boost top speed by approximately four to five miles per hour. That extra top end power will come in handy in the twisty stuff as well.

Before you get all worked up about Al leaving horsepower on the table, be assured that he will be replacing the restrictive induction system with the Edelbrock Super Victor manifold and a four-barrel style throttle body EFI setup. 32 extra horsepower will sure help if someone ever gives Al a triple-dog dare.

TFS-3240T002-C03
Trick Flow Super 23 Race CNC Cylinder Heads
pair

TFS-31402002
Trick Flow Track Max Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
.558" lift, each

EDL-2925
Edelbrock Super Victor Intake Manifold for Small Chevy
each

HLY-0-80528-1
Holley 4150 HP Carburetor
750 cfm, each
related threads and useful info
you might be amazed at how much-related info,
is previously posted on this subject


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-stock-tpi-engine-components.1509/#post-74581

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rger-intake-runners-l98-tpi.13785/#post-72541

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ideal-tpi-build.12203/#post-59273

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-build-info.18/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ps-on-building-a-tpi-383-c4.10434/#post-51507

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...bes-hitting-connecting-rods.14687/#post-79310

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rebuild-old-dyno-results-new-cam-ideas.15332/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-get-there-with-tpi.10494/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rods-to-close.2733/#post-7145

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/my-current-corvettes-383-combo.430/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/18459-chevrolet-corvette-c4-tpi-upgrades/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-a-dual-58mm-throttle-body-on-your-tpi.290/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-valve-spring-height-load-on-a-l98-383.14592/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/small-base-circle-cams.3810/#post-72512
EXAMPLE pay attention to the bore stroke ratios, a 307 with its greater bore and shorter stroke , and slightly ;larger displacement and less valve shrouding should ALWAYS show a slight advantage in performance

Chevy V8 bore & stroke chart

Post by RebStew on Fri 08 Feb 2008, 3:28 pm
CHEVY SMALLBLOCK V-8 BORE AND STROKE


262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('94-'96 Gen.II, 4.3 liter V-8 "L99", 5.94" rod)
267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
293 = 3.779" x 3.27" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LR4" 4.8 Liter Vortec, 6.278" rod)
302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
305 = 3.736" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)

325 = 3.779" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LM7", "LS4 front wheel drive V-8" 5.3 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
345 = 3.893" x 3.622" ('97-later, Gen.III, "LS1", 6.098" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" ('96-'01, Gen. I, Vortec, 5.7" rod)
350 = 3.900" x 3.66" ('89-'95, "LT5", in "ZR1" Corvette 32-valve DOHC, 5.74" rod)
364 = 4.000" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LS2", "LQ4" 6.0 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
376 = 4.065" x 3.622" (2007-later, Gen. IV, "L92", Cadillac Escalade, GMC Yukon)
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor, 5.7" rod)
400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod)
427 = 4.125" x 4.00" (2006 Gen.IV, LS7 SBC, titanium rods)

Two common, non-factory smallblock combinations:

377 = 4.155" x 3.48" (5.7" or 6.00" rod)
400 block and a 350 crank with "spacer" main bearings
383 = 4.030" x 3.75" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals
cut to 350 size



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CHEVY BIG BLOCK V-8 BORE AND STROKE


366T = 3.935" x 3.76"
396 = 4.096" x 3.76"
402 = 4.125" x 3.76"
427 = 4.250" x 3.76"
427T = 4.250" x 3.76"
454 = 4.250" x 4.00"
496 = 4.250" x 4.37" (2001 Vortec 8100, 8.1 liter)
502 = 4.466" x 4.00"
572T = 4.560" x 4.375" (2003 "ZZ572" crate motors)
 
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You can get a L31 long block for about $2K.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-1 ... /overview/

Vortec heads equipped. Just need an intake and a cam, water pump,distributor etc. you like. Depending on how radical you get with the cam, you might need to convert to screw in studs, better valve springs doo extra valve train clearance work etc. and maybe add roller rockers.



http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccr ... -pie-tech/

http://www.hotrod.com/cars/project-vehi ... e-install/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccr ... ck-engine/
 
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