the more I look after this the more I want..

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

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BTW,how many guys own basic machine tools like a decent welder and drill press , air compressor , etc/

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=10392&p=43018&hilit=miller+252#p43018

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=24

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=970

heres a darn impressive and logical custom welding project, I found posted on a different site and finding an older flex-plate or flywheel and a spare starter and gear for use with the engine stand as a gear drive and adding some custom crank handle, makes the stand more useable.
now I don,t know why I didn,t think of this, its a rather simple modification with easily obtainable components that would make using an engine stand easier.
the pictures, showing what needed to be done is rather self explanatory
gearstand.jpg


worktable+with+vice1275438480.jpg


the more I look at this work/shop bench, the more I want something similar, built,in my shop!
and Im sure most of us that have room in the garage could sure use a good solid work bench, OH yeah!
its just a pipe dream at this point ,as my finances won,t currently allow it, but I,d like ideas from you gentlemen, on how to make the legs have at least some minimal adjustment, to compensate for a floor location that might be just a bit less than exactly level,obviously you could just stuff a shim or two under the legs if required, but having to stuff shims if required is really a less than ideal solution, that a well designed bench should be able to cope with.
(as I,m sure most guys realize most poured concrete floors are not always perfectly level, over the entire shop floor surface)
Id also like to have a few pull out drawers , added to the design, to keep welding clamps and supplies in and maybe a slide out rack to hold a few tools.
plus some kind of parts list and cost to build something similar.
and having a well braced top with at least a 3/8" steel top surface seems desirable
obviously theres a great many options available and you might want to build it so its easily disassembled for transport??
having the legs bolt in place would allow you to insert washers as spacers on the bolts to adjust the effective leg length IF IT WAS PROPERLY DESIGNED
Id think basic dimensions should be 4ft x 8 ft so you don,t need to cut a sheet of 3/8" steel plate as the top surface, and leg height , made from 3" square 1/4' thick square tube of about 36"-40" seems about right??

IM sure some of you computer geniuses,who far exceed my meager computer skills , could post a detailed exploded diagram of bench plans with those features shown?????
 

Seems the solid top would be hard to clamp anything down unless it was close to the edge, which wont' be true everytime. Using rectangular tubing and leaving a gap would help and also alot easier to handle than 4x8 foot sheet of steel.



Combine that with some casters and leg adjusters like below and now it's also a mobile table that can be pulled out when needed.



Four of these adjuster should support the table, they are rated at 20,000 lbs each.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LEVELI ... Pid=search



They have hundreds of adjustable feet, if you need something different.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/leveli ... sst=subset

 

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How much do you estimate this work table would cost?
This stuff is out of my league but I would surely be able to put it to good use.
Can this table be assembled by a Mig welder? that's all I have right now.

Don't laugh but could you use those adjustable steel posts used in construction (basement beam/joist supports) for legs? There are several types and all are not that much money, very fine adjusting (a screwdriver can be used for turning the post) and have a pivoting square plate top for the floor.
 

Chromebumbers,

I'm not sure which table your are referring, the home built one or the very expensive one?

Can you post some info on the adjustable steel post you are talking about, I'm not familiar with those ???

 
The welding table Chromebumpers shown would cost well over $20k.

Grumpy could build his own welding table for $400-500 in matetials.
I would want a flat solid work surface. No holes.
Add holes later on if need be.

We know what to get Grumpy for Christmas now.
$ for his Welding Fabrication Table.
 
Indycars said:

Chromebumbers,

I'm not sure which table your are referring, the home built one or the very expensive one?

Can you post some info on the adjustable steel post you are talking about, I'm not familiar with those ???
Click to expand...


The first one Grumpy posted (in Blue)
 
Indycars said:

Seems the solid top would be hard to clamp anything down unless it was close to the edge, which wont' be true everytime. Using rectangular tubing and leaving a gap would help and also alot easier to handle than 4x8 foot sheet of steel.



Combine that with some casters and leg adjusters like below and now it's also a mobile table that can be pulled out when needed.



Four of these adjuster should support the table, they are rated at 20,000 lbs each.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LEVELI ... Pid=search





They have hundreds of adjustable feet, if you need something different.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/leveli ... sst=subset
Click to expand...
I agree with the idea of being able to clamp something down as Indycars suggested, by why put the much construction into it. Instead why not make the table top as Grumpy originally started with, but lets go 1/8 thicker, using 1/2 thick and use studs to clamp down your work. Drill and tap multiple locations with say 7/16 or 1/2 inch UNC threads and use all thread rod and use flatbar as the securing device. That would give it good sturdy strength for difficult situations. Legs could be bolted to the table top from underneath and the studs welded into the tabletop, the legs could have rubber feet attached to bolts through a cap on end of the 3 inch square tubing. The cap would be just a drilled hole and adjustable with a nut underneath, cut a hole large enough to fit a ratchet or breaker bar into to lock down the foot from the inside.
 
keep the ideas flowing the more perspectives we get the better the final product can potentially be that results from the mix of ideas,
any time you can get a half dozen experienced gear heads together the experience tends to bring out a good wide selection of ideas to work from.
 
I agree with the idea of being able to clamp something down as Indycars suggested, by why put the much construction into it. Instead why not make the table top as Grumpy originally started with, but lets go 1/8 thicker, using 1/2 thick and use studs to clamp down your work. Drill and tap multiple locations with say 7/16 or 1/2 inch UNC threads and use all thread rod and use flatbar as the securing device.
Click to expand...

I like your idea, I just know that I would have a hard time trying to lift 3/8" or 1/2" plate that weighs 490 lbs to 652 lbs for a 4' x 8' piece.

 
Indycars said:
I agree with the idea of being able to clamp something down as Indycars suggested, by why put the much construction into it. Instead why not make the table top as Grumpy originally started with, but lets go 1/8 thicker, using 1/2 thick and use studs to clamp down your work. Drill and tap multiple locations with say 7/16 or 1/2 inch UNC threads and use all thread rod and use flatbar as the securing device.
Click to expand...

I like your idea, I just know that I would have a hard time trying to lift 3/8" or 1/2" plate that weighs 490 lbs to 652 lbs for a 4' x 8' piece.
Click to expand...

while I agree thats a significant factor in most shops I moved a 2600 lb mill with the help of two engine cranes and several friends so I don,t think it will be a huge stumbling block to progress in this case
 
grumpyvette said:
Indycars said:
I agree with the idea of being able to clamp something down as Indycars suggested, by why put the much construction into it. Instead why not make the table top as Grumpy originally started with, but lets go 1/8 thicker, using 1/2 thick and use studs to clamp down your work. Drill and tap multiple locations with say 7/16 or 1/2 inch UNC threads and use all thread rod and use flatbar as the securing device.
Click to expand...

I like your idea, I just know that I would have a hard time trying to lift 3/8" or 1/2" plate that weighs 490 lbs to 652 lbs for a 4' x 8' piece.
Click to expand...

while I agree thats a significant factor in most shops I moved a 2600 lb mill with the help of two engine cranes and several friends so I don,t think it will be a huge stumbling block to progress in this case
Click to expand...
To be honest I think 4x8 would be overkill. I think a 3 1/2 X 6 ft table would be plenty. That would bring the weight down to 321(3/8) and 428(1/2). Honestly, I think that would be plenty big. I know a guy that built a work table that size and put it on removable casters and it was just great according to him.
 
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