The rebuild.

DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
After a couple of blown gaskets... Let's yank the motor and get down to business.

Making this up as I go along... Not quite sure where this is going.

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Gonna paint this yellow!
 
If your just planing on leaving the short block alone except for a paint and clean-up, step one clean the surface and de-grease and clean block deck and use a metal strait edge to verify the decks flat, not warped, then tape off the machined surfaces before painting, making sure not to get any cleaning fluids inside the short block during the process,

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http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/DC-engine.aspx (I use chevy orange or DAYTONA YELLOW, or brite yellow )

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepo ... =VHT+SP738

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2919&p=7625&hilit=+freeze+plugs#p7625

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1479&p=7530&hilit=+freeze+plugs#p7530

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=281&p=344&hilit=brass#p344

step two is clean out the threaded holes with a chaser tap
BUT if your rebuilding the short block, a good sonic cleaning, new cam bearings, rodding out the oil passages , new BRASS FREEZE PLUGS, and a new set of rings and bearings after a good clean and inspection seem to be on the agenda
viewtopic.php?f=59&t=1264&p=6141&hilit=dies+taps#p6141

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=3774&p=10004&hilit=chaser#p10004

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=1718&p=4257&hilit=+rear+seal#p4257

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4294

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1797

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3519

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=831

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125



its not to hard to do with a small 1/2" wide brush on an engine, block thats clean and degreased, once the engine blocks on an engine stand thats easy to rotate, a heat gun to speed up the time required in drying the paint helps prevent runs. just take your time, it should take under 20-25 minutes to do it correctly, if you can,t reach an area don,t get crazy, its not critical to cover every last bit of surface area, just do what you can reach

http://www.por15.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EEPA/

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-bru ... e=mn130060

http://www.engine-paint.com/

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/DC-engine.aspx

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=125

one time use disposable brushes are fine

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http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-1 ... 41338.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/1600-watt- ... 66098.html

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grumpy uses a pressure washer and dawn dish wash liquid and a set of rifle bore brushes and a stiff brush to degrease and clean BARE blocks many times after removing the oil passage plugs and freeze plugs , quickly followed by rubbing down the machined surfaces with a clean rag soaked in MARVEL MYSTERY OIL to prevent surface rust from forming on the bore and deck surfaces before painting
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http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-t ... 95947.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/20-piece-e ... 67071.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/1-3-8-eigh ... 40441.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/media/cata ... e_6420.jpg
 
Thanks boss. Not sure yet if I am going to go through the short block yet. One thing is for sure, I will be painting yellow to easily spot oil leaks.

I have one challenge tho': not strong enough to carry that short block down to my basement. Soooo, it's going to have to stay outside on the stand. I sprayed with WD-40' flipped it over. Cover it with a sheet of plastic a blanket, and another sheet of plastic.... The underside is open to air. Until I get to putting heads back on... Once I decide on short block... I'll spary regularly with WD-40. Sound good?

Are those ARP head bolts reusable?
 
DorianL said:
Thanks boss. Not sure yet if I am going to go through the short block yet. One thing is for sure, I will be painting yellow to easily spot oil leaks.

I have one challenge tho': not strong enough to carry that short block down to my basement. Soooo, it's going to have to stay outside on the stand. I sprayed with WD-40' flipped it over. Cover it with a sheet of plastic a blanket, and another sheet of plastic.... The underside is open to air. Until I get to putting heads back on... Once I decide on short block... I'll spary regularly with WD-40. Sound good?

Are those ARP head bolts reusable?

in most cases yes the ARP bolts on a first gen SBC are reusable after cleaning the bolt threads and chasing the holes with a tap.
many guys get the block stripped, bare then just throw the block in a wheel barrow for transport, or place it on an engine stand and roll it, the factory casters SUCK so I upgraded mine

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018

every engine crane Ive ever seen came with crappy steel wheels about 2.5"-3"in diam.
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adding four of these 8" wheels rated at 600 lbs ,this made it SO MUCH EASIER to use its amazing to roll an engine stand.
get a really stable design and have the 4 new wheels welded or bolted in place
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W41031/?rtype=10


btw a 5 ft long section of 2" pipe, wrapped in a couple shop rags with tape to protect the blocks main caps surfaces, can be slipped thru the engines main caps, centered so about 18" of pipe protrudes from each end to act as handles and a couple tie wraps used to secure it from sliding along the pipe, during transport , allowing two normal male adults to transport a bare block that weights about 180-220 lbs reasonably easily
 
Heads have no leaks and appear to be fine. Asked him to resurface to ensure proper mating.
 
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