This Strikes Me As Weird...
- Thread starter DorianL
- Start date
- Torque (lb.in) = 63,025 x Power (HP) / Speed (RPM)
- Power (HP) = Torque (lb.in) x Speed (RPM) / 63,025.
- Torque (N.m) = 9.5488 x Power (kW) / Speed (RPM)
- Power (kW) = Torque (N.m) x Speed (RPM) / 9.5488.
or go the simple route
5. The equation to calculate horsepower is simple:
Horsepower = Torque x RPM / 5,252.
so as an example
350 ft lbs at 3000 rpm/5252=200 hp
350 ft lbs at 4000 rpm/5252= 266 hp
350 ft lbs at 5000 rpm/5252=333 hp
minor changes in the input data , or sensors placement
,ignition advance curve, exhaust backpressure and fuel/air ratios,
oil levels and temps, coolant temps, fuel octane, plug gaps, battery voltage,
and tire to drum traction,
can screw up the output results on any dyno, many dyno operators,
are rather unskilled/knowledgeable in the machine's precise calibration or operation.
they don,t change anything , from the original parameters
they just connect the car to the dyno and run the car
this can be one reason you get varied results at two different dyno tests.
read threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculate-your-rear-wheel-horse-power.4788/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...late-gear-ratios-and-when-to-shift-calcs.555/
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yeah the numbers are very suspect, and at some points obviously are bogus
it looks like he made the numbers up pulling them out of his A$%^&*
The equation to calculate horsepower is simple:
Horsepower = Torque x RPM / 5,252.
example,s
3800 rpm x 328.3 ft lbs =237 hp not the 330 hp listed
4600 rpm x 389 ft lbs= 340hp not the 391 hp listed
5900 rpm x 353 ft lbs = 397hp not the 489 listed
I hate to say this but if I owned the engine,
Id pull it down for a very careful inspection to see exactly what I now was dealing with,
I would have assumed you previously checked casting number on the block and heads/
and yes you need to varify what the true displacement and compression is,
and what components are included?
verify the bore & stroke ETC.
and what parts were actually used in the engine assembly,
at this point you might be the owner of a 305 SBC you think is a 400
Id be rather suspicious
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/vin-casting-info.10474/#post-44012
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nks-to-casting-numbers-and-info.632/#post-846
it looks like he made the numbers up pulling them out of his A$%^&*
The equation to calculate horsepower is simple:
Horsepower = Torque x RPM / 5,252.
example,s
3800 rpm x 328.3 ft lbs =237 hp not the 330 hp listed
4600 rpm x 389 ft lbs= 340hp not the 391 hp listed
5900 rpm x 353 ft lbs = 397hp not the 489 listed
I hate to say this but if I owned the engine,
Id pull it down for a very careful inspection to see exactly what I now was dealing with,
I would have assumed you previously checked casting number on the block and heads/
and yes you need to varify what the true displacement and compression is,
and what components are included?
verify the bore & stroke ETC.
and what parts were actually used in the engine assembly,
at this point you might be the owner of a 305 SBC you think is a 400
Id be rather suspicious
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/vin-casting-info.10474/#post-44012
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nks-to-casting-numbers-and-info.632/#post-846
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busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
I agree, hp is a result of tq and rpm! Also agree with grumpy, I would pull it down and check it out. If the dyno numbers are bogus, some of the parts could also be the same! If you stick it in and it blows, your out a motor. I’d pull it down, check it out, maybe new gaskets, rings, bearings, just to be sure what you have!
Apologies to all !!!! There has been another lockdown here and... I am embarrassed to say, although I did not catch the bug, it did seriously get me down. 
Seriously - I mean I even took on 14 lbs. of lazy fat.
Let me start recapping my experiences - I did get the motor in and... although I have mixed feelings, I think it is overall positive.
Seriously - I mean I even took on 14 lbs. of lazy fat. Let me start recapping my experiences - I did get the motor in and... although I have mixed feelings, I think it is overall positive.
The swap was fairly straight forward. I had to rent a cherry-picker because mine was not long enough. $50/day, so I needed to get it done swiftly pull one, swap over intake, accessories and the T5, re-install.
I suffered a few setbacks including the most annoying one: I snapped the nylon oil pressure sensor line. For something as silly as that, I had to order some parts from USA. That means, I couldn't really drive the car comfortably for 10 days as I worried about the oil pressure.
Speaking of oil pressure it is good; 35 PSI at hot idle and it goes up from there.
I haven't had much opportunity to drive it, but overall it seems to be a good engine - the vibration is what bothers me, but I'll get back to that in a minute.
The idle vacuum is 14.5 inches. The EFI idle is good, even when cold. It has some lope to it... but not excessive. The vacuum is easily strong enough to operate the brakes, headlights and wiper door.
I haven't really dipped into the power yet; I am worried about breaking this T5 that came off of a 1991 Camaro. On the other hand, I read that there are no known cases of breaking first gear, which is where I have my fun. Dumping the clutch on this is a no-no... but I never plan to do that. I drive like a grandma 95% of the time. I rarely give it beans.
Power seems to be good. Strong in first and second. As I say, I haven't really given it any real onions, but it seems it will burn rubber at will in first and second.
It doesn't like anything under 1500 rpm. Once you dip lower than that you have to shift down. However, it is quite livable, you just have to drive it a little differently; more sporty. I think I may keep the cam as it is - to be honest, this is a sports car, a corvette. I do believe it should be a bit peaky to live up to its namesake.
There is a vibration - not a bad one, mind you. But it is enough to annoy me. It is clearly RPM-related. I don't think it is the rotating assembly. My guess, is that it is because the T5 shifter base is touching the shifter console bezel and transmitting vibrations from the engine throughout the footwell and seat. This winter I will try raising the console a bit to see if that makes a difference. The vibration feels very "narrow"; not like an issue with the damper or flywheel. Hmmmm.
That, and oddly, two oil pan bolts are leaking. I have never seen that before...
I suffered a few setbacks including the most annoying one: I snapped the nylon oil pressure sensor line
. For something as silly as that, I had to order some parts from USA. That means, I couldn't really drive the car comfortably for 10 days as I worried about the oil pressure.Speaking of oil pressure it is good; 35 PSI at hot idle and it goes up from there.
I haven't had much opportunity to drive it, but overall it seems to be a good engine - the vibration is what bothers me, but I'll get back to that in a minute.
The idle vacuum is 14.5 inches. The EFI idle is good, even when cold. It has some lope to it... but not excessive. The vacuum is easily strong enough to operate the brakes, headlights and wiper door
.I haven't really dipped into the power yet; I am worried about breaking this T5 that came off of a 1991 Camaro. On the other hand, I read that there are no known cases of breaking first gear, which is where I have my fun
. Dumping the clutch on this is a no-no... but I never plan to do that. I drive like a grandma 95% of the time. I rarely give it beans.Power seems to be good. Strong in first and second. As I say, I haven't really given it any real onions, but it seems it will burn rubber at will in first and second.
It doesn't like anything under 1500 rpm. Once you dip lower than that you have to shift down. However, it is quite livable, you just have to drive it a little differently; more sporty. I think I may keep the cam as it is - to be honest, this is a sports car, a corvette. I do believe it should be a bit peaky to live up to its namesake.
There is a vibration - not a bad one, mind you. But it is enough to annoy me. It is clearly RPM-related. I don't think it is the rotating assembly. My guess, is that it is because the T5 shifter base is touching the shifter console bezel and transmitting vibrations from the engine throughout the footwell and seat. This winter I will try raising the console a bit to see if that makes a difference. The vibration feels very "narrow"; not like an issue with the damper or flywheel. Hmmmm.
That, and oddly, two oil pan bolts are leaking
. I have never seen that before...
LOL. Ummm. Easily ?!
You know it has tires, right ? If it has tits or tires it will give you trouble