if youve got a third generation camaro visit their site!
http://www.thirdgen.org/coolantbypass
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm
Here, the dyno shows a 6.3 horsepower and 7.1 ft/lbs torque difference between having coolant run through the throttle body and bypassing it, with an average gain of 5.6 horsepower and 6.8 ft/lbs torque. I made the first test after driving the car for approximately 15 minutes. I monitored Coolant Temp and Intake Air Temp while making the run. At the beginning of the baseline run, the coolant was at 178F, intake air was at 80F, and the throttle body itself had a surface temperature of 102F. After bypassing, I again brought the car to temperature and repeated the test. This time, the coolant was at 180F, intake air was 80F and the throttle body was at 82F. To make sure the runs were accurate, I set the cruise on the dyno to 70mph in 6th and let the car run for about 6 minutes. After this time, the throttle body had reached 100F. I let the car cool to 185F coolant temp, and 88F intake air temp. Running the car again with these elevated heat readings yielded another .2 horsepower and -.2 ft/lbs torque compared to before heat soaking the engine. Check out the Dynojet Race Routine between the stock vehicle, the stock throttle body coolant routing and bypassing the throttle body coolant.
By IROCZDave(iroczdave@aol.com)
This procedure is considered a "free modification."
After doing this myself on my engine (88' 350 TPI) I noticed a difference in the throttle response right away, as far as horsepower, well I've heard you may get 5 additional HP out of this.
From what I have read GM incorporated this into the throttle body to prevent any kind of freezing of the TB valve in extreme cold conditions by having water from the cooling system run through it.
This heats up the throttle body quite a bit (just try touching the "Tuned Port Injection" plate after a long drive) and from what I understand there is a possibility that the incoming air may be warmed slightly.
You want the air going into your intake system as cool as possible I've heard, cooler air has more density, that's all I know.
There are two ways to do this, both have the same results, I will cover both in this article and you can decide which is to your liking.
NOTE: If you live in an area where extreme cold conditions exist I would not recommend this procedure.
The above diagram shows the "quick" method using a hard tube (approx. 5\8") to connect the existing hoses using clamps.
This takes little time to do, however if you are a stickler for details as I am this looks like a quicky job.
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
I simply got a new piece of 5/8" hose with a built in (90 degree) elbow, and ran it from the black plastic heater control valve/diverter and down to the intake manifold outlet this took about 10" of hose to do and looks much better!
NOTE: Place the elbow end of the new hose at the intake outlet.
Now after you have everything back togther take you car out for nice long drive and when you get back, open the hood and feel the TB, it's cool to the touch!
THESE ARE AVAILABLE IN THE PLUMBING SECTION OF HOME DEPOT FOR UNDER $4
always measure carefully before you buy parts to be certain but you generally need a double 5/8" hose barb
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/pr ... 178-xx.htm
You can leave the water outlets on the TB open if you wish, or do what I did!
I got some new 5/8" hose and from the left side TB water outlet ran the hose over past the battery through the fender and down under the battery tray , attached a small pickup funnel to the end of the hose and mounted it to the fender support bracket facing forward for maximum air pick up.
Then another piece of 5\8" hose from the right side TB water outlet ran next to the upper radiator hose, down next to the radiator and under the car, pointing rearward.
What this does basically is "air cools" the TB housing while your driving, I don't have the air volume specs if there is any to take in the first place, it's just an idea I had and I decided to try it.
keep in mind with some aftermarket efi intakes the throttle body coolant component of the IAC throttle body housing must be removed to allow the t-stat housing to fit
http://www.thirdgen.org/coolantbypass
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm
Here, the dyno shows a 6.3 horsepower and 7.1 ft/lbs torque difference between having coolant run through the throttle body and bypassing it, with an average gain of 5.6 horsepower and 6.8 ft/lbs torque. I made the first test after driving the car for approximately 15 minutes. I monitored Coolant Temp and Intake Air Temp while making the run. At the beginning of the baseline run, the coolant was at 178F, intake air was at 80F, and the throttle body itself had a surface temperature of 102F. After bypassing, I again brought the car to temperature and repeated the test. This time, the coolant was at 180F, intake air was 80F and the throttle body was at 82F. To make sure the runs were accurate, I set the cruise on the dyno to 70mph in 6th and let the car run for about 6 minutes. After this time, the throttle body had reached 100F. I let the car cool to 185F coolant temp, and 88F intake air temp. Running the car again with these elevated heat readings yielded another .2 horsepower and -.2 ft/lbs torque compared to before heat soaking the engine. Check out the Dynojet Race Routine between the stock vehicle, the stock throttle body coolant routing and bypassing the throttle body coolant.
By IROCZDave(iroczdave@aol.com)
This procedure is considered a "free modification."
After doing this myself on my engine (88' 350 TPI) I noticed a difference in the throttle response right away, as far as horsepower, well I've heard you may get 5 additional HP out of this.
From what I have read GM incorporated this into the throttle body to prevent any kind of freezing of the TB valve in extreme cold conditions by having water from the cooling system run through it.
This heats up the throttle body quite a bit (just try touching the "Tuned Port Injection" plate after a long drive) and from what I understand there is a possibility that the incoming air may be warmed slightly.
You want the air going into your intake system as cool as possible I've heard, cooler air has more density, that's all I know.
There are two ways to do this, both have the same results, I will cover both in this article and you can decide which is to your liking.
NOTE: If you live in an area where extreme cold conditions exist I would not recommend this procedure.
The above diagram shows the "quick" method using a hard tube (approx. 5\8") to connect the existing hoses using clamps.
This takes little time to do, however if you are a stickler for details as I am this looks like a quicky job.
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
I simply got a new piece of 5/8" hose with a built in (90 degree) elbow, and ran it from the black plastic heater control valve/diverter and down to the intake manifold outlet this took about 10" of hose to do and looks much better!
NOTE: Place the elbow end of the new hose at the intake outlet.
Now after you have everything back togther take you car out for nice long drive and when you get back, open the hood and feel the TB, it's cool to the touch!
THESE ARE AVAILABLE IN THE PLUMBING SECTION OF HOME DEPOT FOR UNDER $4
always measure carefully before you buy parts to be certain but you generally need a double 5/8" hose barb
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/pr ... 178-xx.htm
You can leave the water outlets on the TB open if you wish, or do what I did!
I got some new 5/8" hose and from the left side TB water outlet ran the hose over past the battery through the fender and down under the battery tray , attached a small pickup funnel to the end of the hose and mounted it to the fender support bracket facing forward for maximum air pick up.
Then another piece of 5\8" hose from the right side TB water outlet ran next to the upper radiator hose, down next to the radiator and under the car, pointing rearward.
What this does basically is "air cools" the TB housing while your driving, I don't have the air volume specs if there is any to take in the first place, it's just an idea I had and I decided to try it.
keep in mind with some aftermarket efi intakes the throttle body coolant component of the IAC throttle body housing must be removed to allow the t-stat housing to fit
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