THANKS TO LD85
Well, I got it in and all and all it was a very simple and smooth installation.
I indicated the BH to make sure the mount hole was concentric with the crank, then bolted everything in
The Torque arm bracket fit perfectly but I did drill two holes in the top of the bracket so I could use two 1/2 -13 bolts and nuts on the top of the beam, the same as the bottom of the beam.
You will see some SS Allen head bolts which I used because the bolt kit I received was missing these bolts and the hardware store were, amazingly, all out of Grade 8 Hex Bolts.
All that I need to do is bleed my new slave, this has been one true PITA to bleed, but I will get that done this week.
I did drive the car and the clutch engagement is only 1/2" off the floor board which ain't right, but I will get this resolved this week.
Also, I need to add that the Keisler guys are a class act, they answered all of my questions, and tailored the quote to eliminate parts that I already had,
another company that I called said "to take their quote in its entirety or leave it", essentially I believe they were too busy to work with me.
Also, the Keisler tech guys called and PM'd me to make sure that I had all of the parts and offered to help in any way, even offered their cell phone #'s for me to call on the weekend,, service above and beyond in my opinion.
So KUDOS to Keisler !!!!!!!!!!
Pics below are of ZF BH and 4+3 BH and ZF tranny and TKO tranny, I used all 4+3 hydraulic slave and master
Also, you can use a bolt on TOB costing $350 or a slip on HOWE 82870 TOB costing @ $150
UPDATE
Well, I pulled the tranny back out and did a couple of things,
1. Keisler did not send directions, not that I needed them, but they did show that I should have used the stock C-beam bolts instead of the four 1/2-13 bolts & nuts that I went and bought. So I took the bolts out and put the stock bolts in, much, much easier to tighten everything up progressively, rather than putting the rigid c-beam in with the TQ adapter plate bolted on to the beam already. No directions was not a big deal for me, but could be for a novice.
2. I installed a RAM 78125 slip on Hydraulic bearing which requires a 3/4" bore Clutch master and is a compressed height of 1.700" , BUT, I do not recommend using this TOB, preferably I would use the Howe 82876 because it is plenty short (compressed height of 1.390") and allows you to use the .045" thick spacers that come with the unit.. I used the RAM 78125 but I had to take the TKO front retainer off the tranny,, put it in a lathe and skimmed off @ .080" off the face of the retainer, which has a domed face,,, no shims from RAM were used. Ideally you need an air gap of .150" - .200,, but I ended up with an air gap of .125, which some manufacturers claim is sufficient.
3. I ran -3 lines from the 3/4" bore Wilwood slave to the Hydraulic TOB and also bought a 1/4-28 speed bleeder to put into the -3 TOB bleed line,,, its a one man job and very very easy to bleed.
Pic of the RAM TOB
KEISLER Tranny TKO 600 with .64 OD with TQ arm bracket, yoke, forged 1310/1330 U-joint, back up switch connector, electronic speed sensor, speed sesnor connector, bolts, = $2950 shipped
(price increase was going into affect on 10/01 which would add @ $250)
Items that I bought;
Dakota Digital SGI5 v3 = $70
Shifter Stick 7-3/4" long = $40
Shift Knob 3/8-16" = $25
GM Syncromesh = $12 x 3 quarts (2.2 reqd)
All in all figure $3100 before the cost increase
RAM Hydrualic TOB, not required = $160
Well, I got it in and all and all it was a very simple and smooth installation.
I indicated the BH to make sure the mount hole was concentric with the crank, then bolted everything in
The Torque arm bracket fit perfectly but I did drill two holes in the top of the bracket so I could use two 1/2 -13 bolts and nuts on the top of the beam, the same as the bottom of the beam.
You will see some SS Allen head bolts which I used because the bolt kit I received was missing these bolts and the hardware store were, amazingly, all out of Grade 8 Hex Bolts.
All that I need to do is bleed my new slave, this has been one true PITA to bleed, but I will get that done this week.
I did drive the car and the clutch engagement is only 1/2" off the floor board which ain't right, but I will get this resolved this week.
Also, I need to add that the Keisler guys are a class act, they answered all of my questions, and tailored the quote to eliminate parts that I already had,
another company that I called said "to take their quote in its entirety or leave it", essentially I believe they were too busy to work with me.
Also, the Keisler tech guys called and PM'd me to make sure that I had all of the parts and offered to help in any way, even offered their cell phone #'s for me to call on the weekend,, service above and beyond in my opinion.
So KUDOS to Keisler !!!!!!!!!!
Pics below are of ZF BH and 4+3 BH and ZF tranny and TKO tranny, I used all 4+3 hydraulic slave and master
Also, you can use a bolt on TOB costing $350 or a slip on HOWE 82870 TOB costing @ $150
UPDATE
Well, I pulled the tranny back out and did a couple of things,
1. Keisler did not send directions, not that I needed them, but they did show that I should have used the stock C-beam bolts instead of the four 1/2-13 bolts & nuts that I went and bought. So I took the bolts out and put the stock bolts in, much, much easier to tighten everything up progressively, rather than putting the rigid c-beam in with the TQ adapter plate bolted on to the beam already. No directions was not a big deal for me, but could be for a novice.
2. I installed a RAM 78125 slip on Hydraulic bearing which requires a 3/4" bore Clutch master and is a compressed height of 1.700" , BUT, I do not recommend using this TOB, preferably I would use the Howe 82876 because it is plenty short (compressed height of 1.390") and allows you to use the .045" thick spacers that come with the unit.. I used the RAM 78125 but I had to take the TKO front retainer off the tranny,, put it in a lathe and skimmed off @ .080" off the face of the retainer, which has a domed face,,, no shims from RAM were used. Ideally you need an air gap of .150" - .200,, but I ended up with an air gap of .125, which some manufacturers claim is sufficient.
3. I ran -3 lines from the 3/4" bore Wilwood slave to the Hydraulic TOB and also bought a 1/4-28 speed bleeder to put into the -3 TOB bleed line,,, its a one man job and very very easy to bleed.
Pic of the RAM TOB
KEISLER Tranny TKO 600 with .64 OD with TQ arm bracket, yoke, forged 1310/1330 U-joint, back up switch connector, electronic speed sensor, speed sesnor connector, bolts, = $2950 shipped
(price increase was going into affect on 10/01 which would add @ $250)
Items that I bought;
Dakota Digital SGI5 v3 = $70
Shifter Stick 7-3/4" long = $40
Shift Knob 3/8-16" = $25
GM Syncromesh = $12 x 3 quarts (2.2 reqd)
All in all figure $3100 before the cost increase
RAM Hydrualic TOB, not required = $160