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DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
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Heheheh - banged up oil pan
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We are humans - we use tools!
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Let's not get confused.
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Love that gasket...
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That cam button was scratch built from brass on a lathe...
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Roller...
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They all looked in very good shape...
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Hmmm - this could sell 400 crank...
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Hardly any ridge... at first glean bores look pretty clean...
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thanks for posting the pictures, its nice to see projects documented like that as so few are documented with pictures .
btw what brand of gear puller is that? it looks like a better design than most I see?
you might want to upgrade the oil pan , to a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan, as that would be a big help with the engines durability, and theres kits you can buy to add an extended sump or you can fabricate a custom design or just buy a pan like these below, after doing a bit of verifying what fits your engine and chassis, and looking at the dents makes me suspect you don,t want a pan thats any DEEPER THAN THE CURRENT DESIGN



http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... parent=277

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... parent=277

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=65

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2376

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi ... key=15-240
 
Why did you have to build your own cam button ???

So what's the plan now ? Are you staying with the 400 block you have now and a new rotating assembly.
 
Ummmm, will get a look at gear puller tomorrow. I scratch built the cam button because last time I was building engine I forgot it in my summit order. It was either that or postpone build two weeks.

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Easier than I thought
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WTF?
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Dude scratch builds cranks...
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From this...
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Kewl...
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I want one!
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Hmmmm. Gotta trust him...
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Assistant determining the minimum overbore needed.
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Didn't asky yet - I think they do. They were asking for my head bolts. They won't start any work till pistons and caps get here. BTW, where did you get the Hard Blok?
 
DorianL said:
Didn't asky yet - I think they do. They were asking for my head bolts. They won't start any work till pistons and caps get here. BTW, where did you get the Hard Blok?

in the usa :D i don.t remember where i got it from , it sits in my garage for to long :oops:

if you wantto hardblok your engine it needs to be done before they bore it
 
Wait, wait, wait...

Hmmmmmm

Weight, weight, weight!

Just realized I improved the power-to-weight ratio of chevy... Shaving 32 lbs off of Yours Truly's lard butt since last September.
 
DorianL said:
Wait, wait, wait...

Hmmmmmm

Weight, weight, weight!

Just realized I improved the power-to-weight ratio of chevy... Shaving 32 lbs off of Yours Truly's lard butt since last September.

thats hard to do! CONGRATS!
 
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7/16 bolts are on there tight!!! I tried putting in a padded vise but chickened before I put too much pressure.
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theres some VERY NICE LOOKING parts you got there guy!
If you don,t have a ROD VISE,

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66769/

or

http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=204548

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oG9xF5EjEz0


if you've got a VISE you can use two small 4"x 8" sections of 3/4" plywood to act as jaw pads and clamp a connecting rod in place and use a 12 point socket to remove the bolts, the rod vise prevents the torque being applied from tweaking the rod out of perfect alignment
 
For one thing, those can't be your hands if your doing the work. Have you been stretching the truth Dorian ??? They are much too clean !

So what do we have there, a few specs would be nice. Maybe manufacture, rod length etc. That top ring looks to be further below the deck surface of the piston than most, is that for Nitrous ???
 
So what do we have there, a few specs would be nice. Maybe manufacture, rod length etc. That top ring looks to be further below the deck surface of the piston than most, is that for Nitrous ???[/size][/color][/quote]

Lololol - you got me there. It's another one of my quirks. I am very meticulous about my hands, I keep em perfectly manicured. I also use pore sealer, wear surgical gloves under mechanic's gloves, etc. I am not a germ freak. I simply enjoy the reaction you just had: hands are too clean to be tinkering on cars... Not possible! It's kinda like mating a blown SBC400 to a THM200-4R.

Of course! Some metrics are appropriate rather than silent proceedings.

Indeed these are JE blower pistons with a 28cc dish. Compared to the stock pistons, they are clearly very robust. Impressive. JE also did a good job taking off all the sharp edges. Slippery!

I was shooting for a lower CR. According to what I calculated, this will be around 8.2:1 Stock pistons were 22cc dish at 8.6:1. The idea here was to be able to mildly uptick boost later if I wanted to - never above 14 PSI. However, it also occurred to me that I can spin this faster than the 5500 RPM I set the rev limiter at. Ohio Crankshaft tells me the assy is good to 7000. I'll keep it to 6200, I think. Still, in other words, since I can spin this a bit faster... let's wait on upticking boost. This should make a nice difference as is.

I am not going to zero deck but just skim off the top to make sure it's flat and true. Since this will be a blown SBC, I'd rather keep the extra deck material than look for a good squish.

The crank is from Ohio Crankshafts (OC) and is 4340 steel. Very nice! I love the detailed oil holes. Nicely polished journals.

The rods are also OC. They are 6-inch with 7/16 ARP 2000 bolts. I am really impressed with the detailing. I am however less clear on orientation - on stock rods, if I recall correctly, the bevel side of large diameter faces the crankshaft, the flat side faces flat side the other rod. Here, one side appears to have just a slight bit more bevel than the other. And WTF do they torque the rod bolts down so tightly for shipping?

The steel splayed caps are on order as are the new cam bearings. Next week I drop them + all the rest off at the machine shop.

I am still wrestling with the level of detailing I want to put into the block and what I color I want to paint it. If the hot tank strips off the red paint from the block, I might go with a hot yellow. I'm not sure if I want to paint manifold and heads yet. Water pump for sure of course. I think I will detail and paint the manifold. I am tired of corroding aluminum. Powder coating is not an option... Hmmmmmmm. That flathead guy impressed me. I like the ultra-slick paint job. The chore seems very similar to the body work I did. That could be cool! Painting the heads? Hmmm... Or... I could ask a local body shop to mix my some sunset orange metallic... the color of the body... Hmmmm...

What about brass plugs - pain or clearcoat. Hmmmm

The headers went to Performance Coating and were Chromex coated. A while back I had some shorty headers done by Jet-Hot. It didn't last. The Chromex coating looks thicker. On the other hand, it wasn't Jet-Hot's top of the line coating either.

Last weekend I spent a couple of hours with high pressure spray and detergent on engine bay. Need to start sanding and painting there as well.

Anyway - still planning.
 
I need more work bench space... lots of parts to organize... and get off the floor. Will make on of those this weekend.

On Monday I might detail the manifold. See how that goes...
 
DorianL said:
Lololol - you got me there. It's another one of my quirks. I am very meticulous about my hands, I keep em perfectly manicured. I also use pore sealer, wear surgical gloves under mechanic's gloves, etc. I am not a germ freak. I simply enjoy the reaction you just had: hands are too clean to be tinkering on cars... Not possible! It's kinda like mating a blown SBC400 to a THM200-4R.

It must really bother you then when the tires have to touch that dirty pavement !



Indeed these are JE blower pistons with a 28cc dish. Compared to the stock pistons, they are clearly very robust. Impressive. JE also did a good job taking off all the sharp edges. Slippery!

Are you going to run the blower you already have that I've seen in your pics or something new ?


I was shooting for a lower CR. According to what I calculated, this will be around 8.2:1 Stock pistons were 22cc dish at 8.6:1. The idea here was to be able to mildly uptick boost later if I wanted to - never above 14 PSI. However, it also occurred to me that I can spin this faster than the 5500 RPM I set the rev limiter at. Ohio Crankshaft tells me the assy is good to 7000. I'll keep it to 6200, I think. Still, in other words, since I can spin this a bit faster... let's wait on upticking boost. This should make a nice difference as is.

So with the camshaft you have what RPM should you shift ??? Looks like your more focused on the durability side of things, than getting the best ET.


I am not going to zero deck but just skim off the top to make sure it's flat and true. Since this will be a blown SBC, I'd rather keep the extra deck material than look for a good squish.

Can't you get very close to the squish you want by adjusting the head gasket thickness. Doesn't seem like you should have to compromise on this. I'm sure you already knew this....its hard to get every thought in to words on a forum.



The crank is from Ohio Crankshafts (OC) and is 4340 steel. Very nice! I love the detailed oil holes. Nicely polished journals. The rods are also OC. They are 6-inch with 7/16 ARP 2000 bolts. I am really impressed with the detailing. I am however less clear on orientation - on stock rods, if I recall correctly, the bevel side of large diameter faces the crankshaft, the flat side faces flat side the other rod. Here, one side appears to have just a slight bit more bevel than the other.

If this is what you are referring to, you are right.



And WTF do they torque the rod bolts down so tightly for shipping?
Mine were the same way, seemed to be torqued to the final setting.


The steel splayed caps are on order as are the new cam bearings. Next week I drop them + all the rest off at the machine shop. I am still wrestling with the level of detailing I want to put into the block and what I color I want to paint it. If the hot tank strips off the red paint from the block, I might go with a hot yellow. I'm not sure if I want to paint manifold and heads yet. Water pump for sure of course. I think I will detail and paint the manifold. I am tired of corroding aluminum. Powder coating is not an option... Hmmmmmmm. That flathead guy impressed me.

Do you have a link, I'm not too far from painting and would like to see how his looks ?


I like the ultra-slick paint job. The chore seems very similar to the body work I did. That could be cool! Painting the heads? Hmmm... Or... I could ask a local body shop to mix my some sunset orange metallic... the color of the body... Hmmmm...

I vote for the Orange color !!!
 

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    Rod Bevel for Crankshaft.jpg
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Indycars said:
DorianL said:
Lololol - you got me there. It's another one of my quirks. I am very meticulous about my hands, I keep em perfectly manicured. I also use pore sealer, wear surgical gloves under mechanic's gloves, etc. I am not a germ freak. I simply enjoy the reaction you just had: hands are too clean to be tinkering on cars... Not possible! It's kinda like mating a blown SBC400 to a THM200-4R.

It must really bother you then when the tires have to touch that dirty pavement !

Naaah, not a neat freak at all. But I often get people making comment on my hands being too neat to be working on a car.

Indeed these are JE blower pistons with a 28cc dish. Compared to the stock pistons, they are clearly very robust. Impressive. JE also did a good job taking off all the sharp edges. Slippery!

Are you going to run the blower you already have that I've seen in your pics or something new ?

Same blower.


I was shooting for a lower CR. According to what I calculated, this will be around 8.2:1 Stock pistons were 22cc dish at 8.6:1. The idea here was to be able to mildly uptick boost later if I wanted to - never above 14 PSI. However, it also occurred to me that I can spin this faster than the 5500 RPM I set the rev limiter at. Ohio Crankshaft tells me the assy is good to 7000. I'll keep it to 6200, I think. Still, in other words, since I can spin this a bit faster... let's wait on upticking boost. This should make a nice difference as is.

So with the camshaft you have what RPM should you shift ??? Looks like your more focused on the durability side of things, than getting the best ET.

Reliability and durability were indeed the primary focus. If I can pick up a few ponies on the way, why not? It then occurred to me that with centifugals, boost builds quicker than RPM... So a gain in RPM will result in significant boost uptick. Possibly 2 to 3 PSI. Not to mention staying longer in lower gears.

I am not going to zero deck but just skim off the top to make sure it's flat and true. Since this will be a blown SBC, I'd rather keep the extra deck material than look for a good squish.

Can't you get very close to the squish you want by adjusting the head gasket thickness. Doesn't seem like you should have to compromise on this. I'm sure you already knew this....its hard to get every thought in to words on a forum.



I'm deriving most of my power from boost, cubes and a reasonably goos flowing long block. Squish would indeed help deter detonation on higher compression N/A motors. Also some power gains due to turbulence, but nothing relatively significant. My compression and boost will be low enough that I don't really have to worry about detonation. Plus, I have water/meth injection. To get proper squish, I'd have to use a shim gasket or deck. I thought about it and figured I'd rather keep meat on the deck and avoid a shim gasket. I hear they aren't as durable on blown plants.


The crank is from Ohio Crankshafts (OC) and is 4340 steel. Very nice! I love the detailed oil holes. Nicely polished journals. The rods are also OC. They are 6-inch with 7/16 ARP 2000 bolts. I am really impressed with the detailing. I am however less clear on orientation - on stock rods, if I recall correctly, the bevel side of large diameter faces the crankshaft, the flat side faces flat side the other rod. Here, one side appears to have just a slight bit more bevel than the other.

If this is what you are referring to, you are right.


Yup! Problem is, the bevels on each side aren't much different.

And WTF do they torque the rod bolts down so tightly for shipping?
Mine were the same way, seemed to be torqued to the final setting.


The steel splayed caps are on order as are the new cam bearings. Next week I drop them + all the rest off at the machine shop. I am still wrestling with the level of detailing I want to put into the block and what I color I want to paint it. If the hot tank strips off the red paint from the block, I might go with a hot yellow. I'm not sure if I want to paint manifold and heads yet. Water pump for sure of course. I think I will detail and paint the manifold. I am tired of corroding aluminum. Powder coating is not an option... Hmmmmmmm. That flathead guy impressed me.

Do you have a link, I'm not too far from painting and would like to see how his looks ?

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4588

I like the ultra-slick paint job. The chore seems very similar to the body work I did. That could be cool! Painting the heads? Hmmm... Or... I could ask a local body shop to mix my some sunset orange metallic... the color of the body... Hmmmm...

I vote for the Orange color !!!

I think I agree: ORANGE!!! Will probably do the booster and carb hat too...
 
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Grmbl... annoyed by the slightly rust bolts... and traces of surface rust on caps...
 
a good soak in oil, and a bit of time with a drill or air powered 1/4" drive die grinder and a nylon abrasive brush will clean those right up, without changing any dimensions, you can remove paint, oil,rust and polish the surface very easily
DON,t FORGET THE FACE SHIELD


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http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-80- ... 91369.html

buy 3-4, of these 3" diam, 1/4" shaft nylon abrasive brushes, they work ok but they don,t last to long on some surfaces. they tend to shed micro bits of abrasive, during the polishing process, hence the need for the face shield
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http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarte ... 44716.html
the die grinders basically a use for a few weeks, and pitch in the dumpster tool,if you use it constantly for dozens of reasons like I do, but they last for long enough that they are a very good value in the shop ,I generally buy 2-3 at a time and can,t imagine not having access as they come in really handy.
BTW they come in 1/8" and 1/4" collet size the 1/8" is basically useless in most applications so be sure the brushes and die grinder shaft size you buy match
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http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable ... 46526.html
 
Aaaah!!!!!

the die grinders basically a use for a few weeks, and pitch in the dumpster tool

Did not know this. That would explain why mine keep on "catching." I was going to check if my air pressure was low.
 
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