rebuilt or new chevy 383 crank[B said:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-0706-small-block-chevy-stroker-kit/
DEAL IN PROVEN FACTS NEVER GUESS , NEVER ASSUME
first step.
before you start panicking and potentially wasting money and time.
would be to assemble a single piston and rod assembly without rings,
but ideally with some old bearings on the crank and connecting rod and install the cam, in the block
( indexed with a simple,dot to dot timing on the timing gear sets should be ok at this point)
move that connecting rod and piston to all 8 locations and very carefully verify clearances (remember the rod clearance bevel faces the crank counter weight and the piston valve clearances face the outer block)through the full 720 degree rotational cycle, remember the cam spins at 1/2 the crank speed so the cam lobe comes close to the rod every other rotation,
and actually verify you DO, have or DON,T have a potential clearance problem
theres zero sense in runninbg around pulling your hair out and screaming until,
theres actually a PROVEN ISSUE too SOLVE (THERE MAY NOT BE!)
now if you find theres an issue to be solved you proceed using facts
and while your checking the cam lobe to connecting rod clearance check the connecting rod to block clearance ....yes the same minimum .060-.080 clearance is suggested
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385
rods that use bolts with nuts like pictured below will be weakened if excessively clearance ground
stroker profile rods offer more clearance to cam lobes, and yes the stroker clearanced profile rods are available in both (h) and (I ) beam designs
generally its a minor easily done clearance job
http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
don,t forget to verify the cam to connecting rod clearances
a cams VALVE LIFT is determined by the DISTANCE the lifter moves as the cam rotates under the lifter base as it moves from the cam lobe base circle
(the closest the lifter comes to the cams center line)
up to the cam lobes ramp to the lobes peak,
(the furthest the lifter up off or from the cams center line)
don,t forget to carefully check the piston skirt to crank counter weight clearance, it should be a MINIMUM of .080 thousands
heres some pictures taken of an engine assembly that use a crank designed for a MINIMUM of a 6.25" connecting rod that was used with a 6.135" connecting rod
you can clearly see where the piston pin boss was being hit bye the counter weights, even though the builder checked one piston and found it had .025 clearance during assembly
the result was a trashed engine with lots of damage
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines.html
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-0503-chevy-383-engine/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...-build-a-383-small-block-engine-sledgehammer/
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-0706-small-block-chevy-stroker-kit/
http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/building-the-little-383-small-block-that-could/
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0808-383-stroker-small-block-chevy/
Jegs; 800/345-4545; Jegs.com
Summit Racing; 800/230-3030; SummitRacing.com
Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center; 800/456-0211; ScogginDickey.com
TRICKFLOW
http://www.trickflow.com/egnsearch.asp? ... 4294867081
http://www.trickflow.com/customerservice
1-330-630-1555 • 1-888-841-6556
BRODIX
http://www.brodix.com/heads/heads.html
479.394.1075
DART
http://www.dartheads.com/products/cylinder-heads
Dart Machinery; 248/362-1188; DartHeads.com
AIR FLOW RESEARCH
http://www.airflowresearch.com/
toll free: 877-892-8844
tel: 661-257-8124
Patriot Performance
Patriot Performance; 888/462-8276; Patriot-Performance.com
RHS
http://www.racingheadservice.com/rhs/cylinder-headshtml
Toll Free: 877-776-4323
Local: 901-259-1134
EDELBROCK
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... main.shtml
Edelbrock; 310/781-2222; Edelbrock.com
BMP (world products)
http://www.theengineshop.com/products/cylinder-heads
Tel: 631-737-0372
Fax: 631-737-0467
BUTLER PERFORMANCE
http://www.butlerperformance.com/products/cylinder_heads/cylinder_head_labor.html
866-762-7527
BLUE PRINT ENGINES
http://www.blueprintengines.com/ind...sb-chevy-aluminum-cylinder-heads-cnc-machined
1800-483-4263
PRO-FILER
https://www.profilerperformance.com/
937‐846‐1333
“Quality means doing it right when no one is looking.”
― Henry Ford
“Quality is like buying oats. If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse ... that comes a little cheaper.”
an hour to a week spent in careful research,
before you buy or install parts,
can save you months or frustration
and easily 300%-to 500% of the eventually,
cost incurred in buying cheaper parts,in this hobby!
it sounds like you've got a decent starting point that can be tweaked to provide more power but without knowing a few more facts, like what the trucks transmission is, your rear gear,ratio,and if you need to pass emission testing, your really working at a dis-advantage.
you need to actually MEASURE the valve train clearances, push rod length and piston to valve clearances so you can,t just guess!
Id strongly suggest that you step back and not get into a rush to throw a list of available parts together, and then try to deal with the potential problems that usually result.
the key to building any good performance engine correctly is to plan it out precisely,and do so with a KNOWLEDGE BASE , you get from reading up on what the more successful engine builders have previously accomplished,buying and reading a few books as a reference helps, and selecting components that match the intended rpm range and power band, will result in the best engine build for the cost outlay in most cases!
yeah! I'm well aware that 99% of the guys (including myself) learn the skills and develop insight in this hobby through trial & error, but thats both time consuming and totally unnecessary, and a waste of time and money!
having a mentor with decades of experience sure helps you avoid most problems, and asking detailed questions if far cheaper and faster than trying to figure out why some part broke or won,t fit correctly.
if you take the effort to CAREFULLY read the thread links below you'll find that a few well matched components can produce much better results than you might imagine, and certainly it increases the odds you'll have a far better finished project than randomly matched parts would have resulted in.
get out a legal pad, read the links carefully, list the questions your sure to have and lets discuss both what you have to work with in terms of tools, parts and of course finances that limit ALL of our projects!
if your like most guys you would love to go out and buy a long list of components or duplicate some engine build in a magazine article (where they fail to mention all the machine work costs and things they did to get the result without mentioning those parts of mods in the article)
but like most of us you don,t have a bottomless checking account balance or $200K in tools
what seems to be over-looked in many engine builds is simply the fact you'll almost always DEEPLY regret jumping into the engine build with both feet and waving your check book as you sink ever deeper into piles of parts receipts and machine shop bills, rather than stepping back with a legal pad, and a calculator and listing in minute detail exactly what you want to accomplish, and taking the time and effort too list and check out in detail what each machine shop procedure costs, why its required and how much each components costs, what your options are and how each component will add too or benefit the completed combo (or in some cases cause you time and grief)
stepping back and thinking things through in detail and listing the cost and potential problems and finding the solutions BEFORE you dive into the process may be a lot less fun, but in the long term its sure to cost less and result in a far better finished project!
yes you'll ALWAYS NEED to verify clearances carefully when assembling any engine and no, you can,t assume everything will fit just because its part of a component list thats suppose to fit correctly, simply because manufacturing is an imprecise process and mistake do get made occasionally!
if you build enough engines youll eventually see a strong relationship, between higher initial cost and that spending a bit more on heads and rotating assembly and valve train components tends to significantly reduce the problems and increase the engines long term durability.
Ive occasionally been asked what you can do too reduce the slack in the timing chain if your blocks been line honed,
to straiten the main bearings and that resulted in a slightly closer crank to cam center-line distance,
that results in a slightly increased slack in the stock timing chain sets.
a negligible amount of metal is generally removed from the main bearing saddles in the block, they usually try very hard to minimize that, metal removal so standard parts still fit,during a line hone , but they do sell slightly tighter timing chain sets to correct excess slack if that's required.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3100-5
Timing Chain and Gear Set, Original True Roller, Double Roller, -0.005 in., Iron/Steel Sprockets, Chevy, Small Block, Set
for line honed blocks where the crank is .005 closer to the cam
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-3100-10
for line honed blocks where the crank is .010 closer to the cam
Timing Chain and Gear Set, Original True Roller, Double Roller, -0.010 in., Iron/Steel Sprockets, Chevy, Small Block, Set
RELATED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/stroker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-con-rods-would-you-buy.942/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-started-in-the-car-hobby.339/#post-60187
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...y-in-building-a-good-engine.11682/#post-54682
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/ek-ek1097alb
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...good-street-combo-your-after.5078/#post-14856
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-in-a-good-engine-combo.9930/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/semi-fool-proof-cam-sellection.82/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-383-sbc-combo-planing.12168/#post-58778
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-55571
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
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